Stock is 105 and 38. You cant get away with just shimming. That only helps the midrange.
These bikes usually have idle issues because theyre lean on the low end factory so anything
that makes them leaner (pods, exhaust) will give you grief.





One thing you can check is the boots between the carbs say head and carb on them, they
will not stay on if they arent in the correct direction. Put the carbs on the air box boots then shove them onto the engine side boots. They are truly a pain in the rear, and well worth the $35 to have someone else put them on if you are getting nowhere.

 

yeah, because the factory parts diagram at bike bandit doesnt list anything bigger than a 38PJ....yeah I have no prob with the carb-head boots, its the airbox-carb that is causing me all the grief!

 

so with 2 uni pods at sea level, Im thinking a #40 PJ, a #110 MJ (maybe stock?) and 3 #4 washers under my needles....does this sound ballpark to you guys (just go get me up and running pretty decent)?

 

Id get a 107 and 110. With an exhaust change its 110 and 112.

Its better to get 2 mains sizes to experiment with. At least with the pods you dont have to fight with the air box. I think you will have to modify (cut) the airbox to give the pods room though.

 

yeah, Im gonna have to chop the airbox......does those PJ's sound correct? eventually Im gonna get the exhaust too so the pods just make sense right now.

 

You may not need to change the pilot but 38 sounds like the correct stock # 40 is the next up.
The dealer can tell you what itisfor sure. The jets are around $10 a set, I got 107s from the dealer but never installed them. If you order from the dealer its usually the same $ and you dont have to pay shipping and its faster. Mine actually had the MJs in stock. It helps if you have your carbs with you, some of the aftermarket jets fit.

Remember if the rpms hang when you blip the throttle its lean, if they go low then come back up its rich.

 

yeah, Im gonna go with the stock PJ and 110 MJ's, the guy at the shop said that 107 would not be enough with the pods....should I do my pilot air screws 3 turns maybe? or leave them at the 2.5 I set them to tonight? (I gotta throw some threadlock in there, the one was a little too easy to move, Im afraid it might vibrate out of adjustment) Ill add the 3 #4 washers on each needle tomorrow night.....the airbox was a beast to take out!

 

I wouldn't thread lock the mix screws, just make sure they're assembled correctly, o-ring, washer then spring. The PO had mine wrong. You'll likely stick to 2 1/2 turns however mine runs at 2 3/4 better but it took some solving other issues (dragging clutch) to figure that out.

You can try 3 washers but if you have issues with the midrange thats the first thing to try changing. Make sure they're the super thin brass washers.

I set my screws up when I had the carbs out by visually seeing how much they stuck up out of the hole and compared them to each other. This may not work for you as I'm used to working with small tolerances and can see and feel the difference. I did find out that because of what the PO did to my mixture screw parts that if I did them the same turns out they would have been off from each other. Does this make sense?

I was going to run the 107 with stock airbox I was having lean issues but I think it may have been a restricted jet. After I cleaned the jets it was much better so I never put them in.

Youll also want to sync the carbs when your done messing around.

 

yeah, Im pretty sure one of the carbs is missing the spring below the screw, but as of now it is running pretty good, still idles a little high, but above 3k it runs really good (I have it idleing around 1800-1900) it might be a bit fat in the midrange, but its not bogging or anything, and above 9k it SCREAMS now.........I have the screws at 2 3/4 turns out, 110 MJ's and 3 brass washers on each needle..........nobody ever blew up an engine by running it too rich!!! it also starts with barely any choke now!

 

You may want to track down a spring, it keeps that port sealed by pressing on the o-ring. It could cause that cylinder to run different from the other.

If its not bogging then thats good. Ride it for some time to get it good and warm then see where your idle will set at.

If its too rich it will run worse hot.

Id like to put pods on mine but it can cause carb icing, here its so humid that when its under 60 my carbs ice, I dont want to make it worse.