help!
#1
08-18-2015, 12:09 AM
help!
I'm a new person to the motorcycle world! I recently purchased a kz305-b2 and the bike itself is in nice condition.They tried to turn it over when I purchased the motor cycle to show me it tried but would not start. I spoke to a guy to fay and he said if the guy cranked it over to much without exhaust the the motor oil would now contain gas and ruin the engine! Is this true? And can I fix it if so? Please help sorry so long
#2
08-18-2015, 02:27 PM
Congratulations on the find.
Do you mean they ran the bike without exhaust pipes on, or cranked it (without starting) with no exhaust pipes? Or just cranked it a lot without it starting and running, and thus no exhaust? How much of this did they do?
Too much gasoline in the oil can be a bad thing. You'll want to be changing oil while your trying to get it running. But unless they ran it a lot with a bunch of gasoline in the oil, I doubt that will be a major issue.
If it were mine and if it had been non-running for a long time, I'd want to go through it fairly thoroughly before trying to start it up. Fresh oil, clean the carbs, new plugs, fresh fuel and check tank for rust, etc., etc.
Do you mean they ran the bike without exhaust pipes on, or cranked it (without starting) with no exhaust pipes? Or just cranked it a lot without it starting and running, and thus no exhaust? How much of this did they do?
Too much gasoline in the oil can be a bad thing. You'll want to be changing oil while your trying to get it running. But unless they ran it a lot with a bunch of gasoline in the oil, I doubt that will be a major issue.
If it were mine and if it had been non-running for a long time, I'd want to go through it fairly thoroughly before trying to start it up. Fresh oil, clean the carbs, new plugs, fresh fuel and check tank for rust, etc., etc.
Last edited by IDRIDR; 08-18-2015 at 02:31 PM.
#3
08-18-2015, 02:46 PM
Thanks man. I'm not sure how much cranking he's done before I came to look at it but he tried twice while I was lookin at the bike. What oil would u recommend I use? What weight? And how should I clean the carbs? I really appreciate the help I got a real good price on it and the bike only has 74xx miles on it
#4
08-18-2015, 04:10 PM
Do you feel comfortable doing mechanical work? Do you have any friends or acquaintances who are motorcycle enthusiasts and who know how to work on them? Any decent motorcycle oil should be good to start with. I use Shell Rotella T 15-40 (which is actually made for diesel trucks, but is quite widely used in the motorcycle world). It's inexpensive so I change it often. Inspect and smell the used oil coming out. Is it old and contaminated? Smell like gasoline?
See if you can find the service manual for your bike, or a similar model, online. That should help. Look around youtube for motorcycle carburetor cleaning instructions. There is literally a plethora of good stuff on youtube. Do you have the tools and know how to do a compression test? Look that up too. How is the gas? Fresh? Stink terribly? Is it full or near empty? Remove the gas tank, swish it around and dump it into a bucket to look for rust flakes and other crud. Shine a flashlight in and inspect it. How are the rubber components (fuel lines, vent lines, carburetor boots)? Replace anything cracked and old.
See if you can find the service manual for your bike, or a similar model, online. That should help. Look around youtube for motorcycle carburetor cleaning instructions. There is literally a plethora of good stuff on youtube. Do you have the tools and know how to do a compression test? Look that up too. How is the gas? Fresh? Stink terribly? Is it full or near empty? Remove the gas tank, swish it around and dump it into a bucket to look for rust flakes and other crud. Shine a flashlight in and inspect it. How are the rubber components (fuel lines, vent lines, carburetor boots)? Replace anything cracked and old.
#5
08-18-2015, 04:50 PM
Do you feel comfortable doing mechanical work? Do you have any friends or acquaintances who are motorcycle enthusiasts and who know how to work on them? Any decent motorcycle oil should be good to start with. I use Shell Rotella T 15-40 (which is actually made for diesel trucks, but is quite widely used in the motorcycle world). It's inexpensive so I change it often. Inspect and smell the used oil coming out. Is it old and contaminated? Smell like gasoline?
See if you can find the service manual for your bike, or a similar model, online. That should help. Look around youtube for motorcycle carburetor cleaning instructions. There is literally a plethora of good stuff on youtube. Do you have the tools and know how to do a compression test? Look that up too. How is the gas? Fresh? Stink terribly? Is it full or near empty? Remove the gas tank, swish it around and dump it into a bucket to look for rust flakes and other crud. Shine a flashlight in and inspect it. How are the rubber components (fuel lines, vent lines, carburetor boots)? Replace anything cracked and old.
See if you can find the service manual for your bike, or a similar model, online. That should help. Look around youtube for motorcycle carburetor cleaning instructions. There is literally a plethora of good stuff on youtube. Do you have the tools and know how to do a compression test? Look that up too. How is the gas? Fresh? Stink terribly? Is it full or near empty? Remove the gas tank, swish it around and dump it into a bucket to look for rust flakes and other crud. Shine a flashlight in and inspect it. How are the rubber components (fuel lines, vent lines, carburetor boots)? Replace anything cracked and old.
#7
08-18-2015, 08:38 PM
The engine turns over. That's a good sign.
Read up on compression test techniques. A warm engine is preferred, but you don't have that option yet. A little oil down the spark plug ports to help seal and lubricate the rings. Wide open throttle. Measure pressure in each cylinder at least three times, looking for consistency between measurements and take the average. The other cylinder should be somewhat similar pressure. I'm GUESSING the manual will spec a usable range from around 100 to 150 psi.
To begin with on the carbs, at least pull the bowl off the bottom and have a look. Does it look grungy with varnish deposits? If so, then your best bet will be a full disassemble, soak, and clean of carbs. Maybe a rebuild kit with new gaskets, etc. Get JIS screwdrivers because regular phillip's head drivers will strip out those + screws in short order. However, research your carb first to be on the lookout for rubber or plastic parts that shouldn't soak. There are carb soak solutions but I've also used good ol Pine Sol. Good carb cleaner in the aerosol can and compressed air to clean and blow out passages. Clean, or better yet replace, the pilot jets and also the main jets if the thing is varnished up.
If the carbs look clean and shiny, at least pull the pilot jet and look through it and or replace it. Those jets are tiny and very susceptible to varnish fouling.
Check the exhaust and intake for rodent nests (not kidding here).
Check for spark. Maybe do this while compression testing.
So, after all of this you should have 1) spark, 2) fuel, 3) compression, and 4) free-flowing intake and exhaust. Those are the basics. If that doesn't get you started, time to start digging deeper.
Oh, and after you get the tank off and cleaned, check for good solid fuel flow through the petcock. The intake strainer in the tank could be fouled. Also consider adding a little in-line fuel filter at this stage before connecting fuel line to your newly cleaned carbs. A little fleck of rust can mess with the needle float jet, pilot jet, etc.
And another thing. Pay close attention to pilot jet adjustment screw position and other carb settings. Note them and put them back the same on reassembly. You'll likely need to sync the carbs when you're done (this probably best left to a pro) to get it running nicely.
Read up on compression test techniques. A warm engine is preferred, but you don't have that option yet. A little oil down the spark plug ports to help seal and lubricate the rings. Wide open throttle. Measure pressure in each cylinder at least three times, looking for consistency between measurements and take the average. The other cylinder should be somewhat similar pressure. I'm GUESSING the manual will spec a usable range from around 100 to 150 psi.
To begin with on the carbs, at least pull the bowl off the bottom and have a look. Does it look grungy with varnish deposits? If so, then your best bet will be a full disassemble, soak, and clean of carbs. Maybe a rebuild kit with new gaskets, etc. Get JIS screwdrivers because regular phillip's head drivers will strip out those + screws in short order. However, research your carb first to be on the lookout for rubber or plastic parts that shouldn't soak. There are carb soak solutions but I've also used good ol Pine Sol. Good carb cleaner in the aerosol can and compressed air to clean and blow out passages. Clean, or better yet replace, the pilot jets and also the main jets if the thing is varnished up.
If the carbs look clean and shiny, at least pull the pilot jet and look through it and or replace it. Those jets are tiny and very susceptible to varnish fouling.
Check the exhaust and intake for rodent nests (not kidding here).
Check for spark. Maybe do this while compression testing.
So, after all of this you should have 1) spark, 2) fuel, 3) compression, and 4) free-flowing intake and exhaust. Those are the basics. If that doesn't get you started, time to start digging deeper.
Oh, and after you get the tank off and cleaned, check for good solid fuel flow through the petcock. The intake strainer in the tank could be fouled. Also consider adding a little in-line fuel filter at this stage before connecting fuel line to your newly cleaned carbs. A little fleck of rust can mess with the needle float jet, pilot jet, etc.
And another thing. Pay close attention to pilot jet adjustment screw position and other carb settings. Note them and put them back the same on reassembly. You'll likely need to sync the carbs when you're done (this probably best left to a pro) to get it running nicely.
Last edited by IDRIDR; 08-18-2015 at 08:41 PM.
#8
08-18-2015, 11:40 PM
The engine turns over. That's a good sign.
Read up on compression test techniques. A warm engine is preferred, but you don't have that option yet. A little oil down the spark plug ports to help seal and lubricate the rings. Wide open throttle. Measure pressure in each cylinder at least three times, looking for consistency between measurements and take the average. The other cylinder should be somewhat similar pressure. I'm GUESSING the manual will spec a usable range from around 100 to 150 psi.
To begin with on the carbs, at least pull the bowl off the bottom and have a look. Does it look grungy with varnish deposits? If so, then your best bet will be a full disassemble, soak, and clean of carbs. Maybe a rebuild kit with new gaskets, etc. Get JIS screwdrivers because regular phillip's head drivers will strip out those + screws in short order. However, research your carb first to be on the lookout for rubber or plastic parts that shouldn't soak. There are carb soak solutions but I've also used good ol Pine Sol. Good carb cleaner in the aerosol can and compressed air to clean and blow out passages. Clean, or better yet replace, the pilot jets and also the main jets if the thing is varnished up.
If the carbs look clean and shiny, at least pull the pilot jet and look through it and or replace it. Those jets are tiny and very susceptible to varnish fouling.
Check the exhaust and intake for rodent nests (not kidding here).
Check for spark. Maybe do this while compression testing.
So, after all of this you should have 1) spark, 2) fuel, 3) compression, and 4) free-flowing intake and exhaust. Those are the basics. If that doesn't get you started, time to start digging deeper.
Oh, and after you get the tank off and cleaned, check for good solid fuel flow through the petcock. The intake strainer in the tank could be fouled. Also consider adding a little in-line fuel filter at this stage before connecting fuel line to your newly cleaned carbs. A little fleck of rust can mess with the needle float jet, pilot jet, etc.
And another thing. Pay close attention to pilot jet adjustment screw position and other carb settings. Note them and put them back the same on reassembly. You'll likely need to sync the carbs when you're done (this probably best left to a pro) to get it running nicely.
Read up on compression test techniques. A warm engine is preferred, but you don't have that option yet. A little oil down the spark plug ports to help seal and lubricate the rings. Wide open throttle. Measure pressure in each cylinder at least three times, looking for consistency between measurements and take the average. The other cylinder should be somewhat similar pressure. I'm GUESSING the manual will spec a usable range from around 100 to 150 psi.
To begin with on the carbs, at least pull the bowl off the bottom and have a look. Does it look grungy with varnish deposits? If so, then your best bet will be a full disassemble, soak, and clean of carbs. Maybe a rebuild kit with new gaskets, etc. Get JIS screwdrivers because regular phillip's head drivers will strip out those + screws in short order. However, research your carb first to be on the lookout for rubber or plastic parts that shouldn't soak. There are carb soak solutions but I've also used good ol Pine Sol. Good carb cleaner in the aerosol can and compressed air to clean and blow out passages. Clean, or better yet replace, the pilot jets and also the main jets if the thing is varnished up.
If the carbs look clean and shiny, at least pull the pilot jet and look through it and or replace it. Those jets are tiny and very susceptible to varnish fouling.
Check the exhaust and intake for rodent nests (not kidding here).
Check for spark. Maybe do this while compression testing.
So, after all of this you should have 1) spark, 2) fuel, 3) compression, and 4) free-flowing intake and exhaust. Those are the basics. If that doesn't get you started, time to start digging deeper.
Oh, and after you get the tank off and cleaned, check for good solid fuel flow through the petcock. The intake strainer in the tank could be fouled. Also consider adding a little in-line fuel filter at this stage before connecting fuel line to your newly cleaned carbs. A little fleck of rust can mess with the needle float jet, pilot jet, etc.
And another thing. Pay close attention to pilot jet adjustment screw position and other carb settings. Note them and put them back the same on reassembly. You'll likely need to sync the carbs when you're done (this probably best left to a pro) to get it running nicely.
#9
08-19-2015, 02:47 PM
I'd dump the oil first thing and look for anything out of the ordinary (fuel smell, metal flakes). Change the filter. Refill the oil. Then pull the tank and empty, clean. Pull the carbs and determine how far you need to go with them. Pull the spark plugs and inspect. Find a new replacement set of the type called for in the manual (don't assume the plugs in it are the correct ones). Do the compression test with the carbs off and plugs out.
When I said full open throttle for the compression test, the throttle is open but the petcock off and the spark plugs out. It can not and should not run during a compression test. You're cranking the motor over with the starter a second or two, or with the kicker, until the compression psi gage maxes out. Note that number, release pressure, and do it another two or three times. The reason for opening the throttle is to allow as much air as possible to go into the engine as it turns over. You don't want the carb's butterfly valve blocking air flow. So doing compression test with the carbs off should be just fine (no need to turn the throttle).
Edit - check for strong spark of new plugs before or after compression test. This is done with the plug out of the engine.
When I said full open throttle for the compression test, the throttle is open but the petcock off and the spark plugs out. It can not and should not run during a compression test. You're cranking the motor over with the starter a second or two, or with the kicker, until the compression psi gage maxes out. Note that number, release pressure, and do it another two or three times. The reason for opening the throttle is to allow as much air as possible to go into the engine as it turns over. You don't want the carb's butterfly valve blocking air flow. So doing compression test with the carbs off should be just fine (no need to turn the throttle).
Edit - check for strong spark of new plugs before or after compression test. This is done with the plug out of the engine.
Last edited by IDRIDR; 08-19-2015 at 08:02 PM.
#10
08-20-2015, 09:06 PM
I'd dump the oil first thing and look for anything out of the ordinary (fuel smell, metal flakes). Change the filter. Refill the oil. Then pull the tank and empty, clean. Pull the carbs and determine how far you need to go with them. Pull the spark plugs and inspect. Find a new replacement set of the type called for in the manual (don't assume the plugs in it are the correct ones). Do the compression test with the carbs off and plugs out.
When I said full open throttle for the compression test, the throttle is open but the petcock off and the spark plugs out. It can not and should not run during a compression test. You're cranking the motor over with the starter a second or two, or with the kicker, until the compression psi gage maxes out. Note that number, release pressure, and do it another two or three times. The reason for opening the throttle is to allow as much air as possible to go into the engine as it turns over. You don't want the carb's butterfly valve blocking air flow. So doing compression test with the carbs off should be just fine (no need to turn the throttle).
Edit - check for strong spark of new plugs before or after compression test. This is done with the plug out of the engine.
When I said full open throttle for the compression test, the throttle is open but the petcock off and the spark plugs out. It can not and should not run during a compression test. You're cranking the motor over with the starter a second or two, or with the kicker, until the compression psi gage maxes out. Note that number, release pressure, and do it another two or three times. The reason for opening the throttle is to allow as much air as possible to go into the engine as it turns over. You don't want the carb's butterfly valve blocking air flow. So doing compression test with the carbs off should be just fine (no need to turn the throttle).
Edit - check for strong spark of new plugs before or after compression test. This is done with the plug out of the engine.