It's not for everyone, but I cut my clutch lever down to the width of two fingers. It allows me to pull the clutch and hold on to the bars off-road in the rough stuff. I did it so if I hit a tree or crash, while holding the lever, the lever won't crush the fingers stuck behind it. It also helped with Barkbuster clearance, but you only need to trim the end to gain clearance.

 

I never understood people that slip the clutch on a 4 stroke. Whenever I pull the clutch in I pull it all the way in, do the shifting, and then let it all the way out.

I did cut the ***** off the ends of the levers. No need for them with bark busters.

 

"Button" the ends of your trimmed clutch and brake levers with a couple rounds of marine-grade shrink tubing.

CycleRacks make a seriously strong rack. They are big, but do the job.

Acerbis 3.7 gallon tank offers some pretty good radiator protection and you can get a locking cap for it.

 

Because thats how you use the friction zone to do slow technical maneuvers.

 

That's about the only time you should slip the clutch, when you are going too slow to just be in gear. Similar to taking off from a stop. First gear just off idle will get you lots of places.

Some folks seem to like slipping the clutch when sliding into and taking off from corners to bring the revs up into the powerband. Some do it to pop the front end up and over a log. Some slippers are just idiots that don't know any better.

 

The mods that have made the most difference so far for me are getting heavier front springs and rimlocks. I was amazed on how much better the bike could climb when I ran the tires at 10 psi.

 

I slip the clutch on technical steep trails when I would otherwise stall or fall over because of lack of speed, otherwise don't need to do it. I made the lever that short because I only pull with 2 fingers anyway, the other 2 are holding on to the bar. When I panic and pull the clutch all the way in, my other 2 fingers would get crushed, not anymore.
After 2400 miles to and from S.Carolina on highways, a bigger tank is top on my list, as is some softer seat foam, and the PM Racks side rack(my saddlebags helped melt my sidepanel into the muffler, oops).
I too am sold on rimlocks for low psi riding. The low pressure helped my confidence on riding gravel much faster, since I wasn't bouncing over but rolling over, and off-road it is a necessity for me now.

 

Bark Busters were the best 60$ spent.
H.I.D. headlight was a complete waste of money.
Pumper carb rocks but initial tuning is almost rocket science.
You can never go wrong with power mods only broke (aka bb330).
Rear Trackmaster is offroad velcro.

I would suggest putting lock-tite on the peg bolts mine almost fell off. I don't have one but a brake snake would have saved me a few times. Remove or shorten the carb overflow hozes, first bath with the bike and it quit mid puddle. I almost killed the battery.

 

Not sure which year you have, I might have missed it.









KX rear fender
Edge tail light with plate light
Tusk hand guards with shield and spoiler
Tusk KX High bars
Tusk Bar riser kit
quarter turn throttle
MSR shorty clutch
Stock KLX 300 offroad exhaust and header
Baja Designs forlding mirrors
Ceet gripper seat cover
Studded ***** for the snow, AC-10's for all around, Cheng Shin Barracudas on a second wheel set for street riding.

The only mod that I regret was swapping the key for a V-Strom key

 

I race a 2 stroke and don't slip the clutch. I find that most people that do, are just being lazy. If you're not in the powerband, you're in the wrong gear. Slow technical stuff is the exception.


I found that removing the backfire screen made a noticeable and worthwhile difference. The cheap wide pegs I bought on ebay are excellent.