Pulled tire to put on a new D606 and when I came back to mount the wheel I realized the left fork tube slid down about 4" lower than the right leg.

Any ideas what it could be before I pull the leg apart?

Left side (bad)



Right side (good)

 

I don't know, QOS...I'm getting dizzy trying to focus on the pics...LOL! Oh...I see the problem. You're using a screwdriver as a front axle!...LOL!

But seriously, can you just point out what you're seeing as a problem? Better focus would probably help me.

 

When I removed the wheel my left fork tube dropped another 3-4" in its slider (below where it should normally stop).

 

Maybe the fork rod unscrewed from the fork cap. Easy to check by removing the fork cap.

Ride on
Brewster

 

Yea, I would open that fork up and check out the situation. If you never done it before, do research or take it in to someone.

 

I think that the only way it's going to drop that much is if the damper rod attached to the fork cap isn't attached or the cartridge is damaged. Take the cap off of the upper tube-the cause should be apparent.

 

I'll pull the fork cap today and reply with findings. Hope the rod just managed to become unscrewed from the cap...

 

Did first gen KLX250s (06-07) come with PVC spacers above the fork spring?

 

Damper rod and cap threads were in perfect condition:





Are these aftermarket springs?

 

So, everything at the cap and the shaft appeared still connected and not loose, correct? Is the nut you see inside the coil spring on the shaft tight? It usually takes a skinny wrench to get in there.

I'm assuming you have the fork compressed in that one pic, and the shaft is still attached to the damper rod bolt...in other words, you can't pull the assembly out.

As to the springs, I can't tell from that pic if they're aftermarket. However, is that a PVC spacer under your cap? Did you install that to preload the spring a bit, or was it done by someone else? If someone else has been in there, you'll probably need to go ahead and pull that leg apart to detect a failure or bad reassembly. Man, it's been so long since I had mine apart to do the Race Tech Gold Valve kit, that I can't remember all the details. The manual will help there. I do know that the damper rod bolt at the bottom can sometimes be loctited in pretty tight, and it can just spin even with a good air impact wrench occasionally.