I can't seem to find the thread where I documented it, but I did hack out more of the wire harness, and get rid of a bunch of excess wire, before wiring in the switch. In the end I basically connected the wires the way Neil explained it to me.

All this = gone.


Ready for the switch


Cleaned up and ready to plug in headlight.


[/QUOTE]

 

I didn't really document it,but I'm sure I capped those red wires off, Here is the thread I was thinking about.


https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...l-about-34719/

 

I have that exact same set up. I need to figure out why I lost my running light in the rear. The front still work

 

Dan - I see an error in the way that your diagram is drawn when compared to the electrical diagram that I didn't see before. Look below, it shows the Red and the Red/White wires connected to each other when the ignition is switched on along with the Brown and White wires. I have them disconnected and capped off right now which explains why I lost my running light. I still think this can be down with a SPST switch though because the Brown and White wires complete the circuit so no power is being drawn unless they are touching. Therefore I should be able to permanently wire the Red and the Red/White wires together and I should get my running lights back in the rear.

 

Also, while on the subject of wiring, anyone know where the tachometer wire is on the electrical diagram? Here's what I see:

Does this mean it's the single black wire?

 

Hmm 99.9% sure that my red wires are not connected. But...........
I hope you get it working.
Dan

 

Yes it is the single black wire.

 

JH, you may get it with a SPST switch, but I'm still not sure how Dan got away with capping off those wires while maintaining a running tail light and license plate lights. The R/W wire goes to the running tail light and license plate light per my wiring diagram, and on the Aus bike there are two ways to energize this circuit: in the "on" position, and in the "park" position. On our US bikes, only one way to energize this circuit and that is the "on" position, whereby the R/W wire needs energized. So I really don't see how we can cap that wire and maintain a running light. Dan worked magic that I don't understand .

Oh, and on the tach, I think you're correct. There were three wires from the tach if I recall, and two connected to the trailtech. On is the BK/Y, common for grounding, which I'm pretty sure I used for one connection. And I believe the black, but try and see which works.

 

Well, I got my running light back! Pretty proud of how everything turned out. I even made a little slide for the fuse skin to slide over on the bottom of the bracket that I fabricated for my Vapor.

Just to clarify - the reason why I lost my running light is because I did not have the red and red/white wires connected. They NEED to be connected to get power to the running light in the back. I soldered them together and slipped some heat shrink over them and all was well. You don't need anything other than a SPST. Now that it's all said and done it was very easy. I may make another fancier mount for the Vapor in the future. One thing that I have still put off is getting the temperature sensor installed. That's next.

BTW, for anyone else who reads this thread in the future - observe caution when unplugging the head light and plugging it back in multiple times. The plug is absolute junk. I cut mine off and used some EZ clips crimped.

Another thing that I suggest - use the liquid electrical tape and coat the power wire for the vapor that runs directly to the battery. It will help protect it.

I'll post up some pictures later!

 

yay :cool: