Will a Pirelli MT-21 in 130/80-18 fit the rear of 2009?

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  #11  
Old 04-02-2011, 08:39 PM
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A 100/100-18 is very close to the same overall diameter as the OEM tyre, therefore not messing up the gearing.
 
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:57 AM
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I put the large Pirelli MT-21 on yesterday, and my gosh, that tire eats well. It has been raining and slushy snowing here, so the clay and mud was nice and soft. The MY-21 never stopped pushing me along, even on some pretty nasty and slick wet clay hills we encountered. I'd say it is every bit the woods tire a X-606 is, if it lasts as long or better, its a winner. The sound it made in new condition was not noticed while using the powercore4 muffler.
 
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by TNC
You guys are gonna laugh, but I run a 100/100 on the rear of my 300 jugged KLX. I ride in CO, UT, and in my home area on a really rocky, loose, gnarly terrain. This bike doesn't need huge tires. Now I'm not saying you should or have to run the size I run by any means, but the taller/fatter tire takes more power, slows response a bit, and raises the rear of the bike. I've not found traction to be a weak point in the power band of this bike...seems like it will tractor through, up, and over anything as long as you're not running a slick. As guys we're always a bit sensitive to the bigger-is-better mantra...LOL!...but it's not always required. One other thing to consider with a very large tire, make sure your chain is long enough so that when you push the tire forward in the swingarm to remove it like for a flat or such, you can slip the chain off the rear sprocket without any drama. I've seen instances on some bikes with a huge tire and a given chain length where getting the rear tire out really turns out to be a headache...doable but a headache.
+1 on those thoughts TNC. I've been running a 110 rear on the KLX for about 1500km now, and really like it. Better response and much easier to 'back it in.'

The Pirelli Scorpion MX Extra isn't DOT but what the hell, works great on our unique WA terrain. The front I'm running is DOT and I can recommend it, especially for sand and loose hardpack. It's a Pirelli Scorpion XCMS front.

I weighed the new Pirelli rear against the 'slick' Dunlop D606 rear I took off and the Pirelli was almost a LB lighter, go figure!
 
  #14  
Old 04-04-2011, 09:00 AM
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Just got back from Japan so a little late to chime in but I will say I went from a MT90 120 to a 140 and it fits fine. I loved the 120 got a lot of wear out of it and decided to replace with a 140. I did notice a loss in power after putting some miles on it but then determimed that was the xcracked cyl. I'd have to say its unrelated. My opinion is the silica in rubber compound improves traction and resists wear.
Cheers Jim
 
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:54 PM
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I also have to chime in and mention that if you are like me and take the bike onto the beach.. (deep sand) not the packed stuff by the water.. you will do better with a tire that will float on top.. 140's are the only size I have had good luck with doing this.. pressure 14-15 psi, fat tire in back.. throttle wide open.. can go anywhere.. Ive tried other combos
 
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Old 04-05-2011, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by T_i_G_e_R
I also have to chime in and mention that if you are like me and take the bike onto the beach.. (deep sand) not the packed stuff by the water.. you will do better with a tire that will float on top.. 140's are the only size I have had good luck with doing this.. pressure 14-15 psi, fat tire in back.. throttle wide open.. can go anywhere.. Ive tried other combos
You do realize that most sand/paddle tires top out at a width of 110, don't you? Tread design, within reason, is way more important than width for sand performance. Yes, a tire like a Yamaha TW has float, but you have to get stupid wide like that before the width of a knobby yields that much float. Tread design is the key.
 
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:21 PM
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Sorry again, Tnc I disagree.. I have found that knobbies just dig deep and tread design is not as crucial as patch width on deep sand. I run regular all weather tires on my 4x4 and most 4x4 guys will tell you that patch surface area and proper inflation are what counts in the deep sand.. skinny tires with knobbies on sand... dig deep you get no where unless you have a very powerful bike. My klx is not a very powerful bike 27 hp prob, so I need every advantage in the sand I can get.
 
  #18  
Old 04-05-2011, 05:25 PM
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and the fact that I weigh 230 lbs definately doesnt help! I need to lose 40 lbs that would be my best upgrade TNC!
 
  #19  
Old 04-05-2011, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by T_i_G_e_R
Sorry again, Tnc I disagree.. I have found that knobbies just dig deep and tread design is not as crucial as patch width on deep sand. I run regular all weather tires on my 4x4 and most 4x4 guys will tell you that patch surface area and proper inflation are what counts in the deep sand.. skinny tires with knobbies on sand... dig deep you get no where unless you have a very powerful bike. My klx is not a very powerful bike 27 hp prob, so I need every advantage in the sand I can get.
I think your comparison of 4X4 tires in this case isn't valid. I also off road with an old, lifted, and lockered GMC Jimmy, and your comparison to the wide tires in that case is a little like my comparison the TW Yamaha. Yes, when you get tires that wide...ATV's are good examples too...you get noticeable float. When we're talking about dirt bike tires in the 100-130 range width, tread pattern, power, and gearing are much more important in sand. Again, this why most sand/paddle tires for dirt bikes only go up to 110. I'm not saying there is absolutely no scientific benefit to the additional 10 or 20mm you might experience in sand with a 130 tire, but in reality it would be nearly undiscernable with equal tread patterns. I think you may be experiencing a placebo effect.
 
  #20  
Old 04-05-2011, 10:49 PM
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ever try to cross sand in a ten speed road bike?
 


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