After I did my rejet I felt the bike was running a little lean so I slowly adjusted the mixture screw out to it's final spot, about 3 1/2 turns out. I still get a little popping at deceleration but not nearly as much when I was at the recommended 3 turns out.

Anyway, since I've adjusted the mixture screw I'm noticing the bike is having a harder time starting, especially if it's already warmed up. It starts fine with the choke on when cold and within 5-10 seconds I can turn the choke off. But when I go to fire it up later in the day when it's warmer out or the bike is still warmed up after a ride I'm having a hard time getting it to kick-over, even with the chock on. BTW, my idol seems to be pretty steady at about 1300 rpm.

So my question is should I try and turn the mixture screw back in, say 1/2 a turn to get it to start easier (if that'll work)? If I do I'll be back to the popping. But I think starting easier is the better of the two.

I really wish I would have drilled the .018" hole in the diaphragm when I did the rejet. I tried to stick to the instructions since it was my first time. But now I'm wishing I did it. But there's no way in hell I'm opening it back up to do just that.

 

turning the fuel screw back in probably won't help with starting, but why not give it a try.

The 0.018" drill is NOT in the diaphragm, but is in the brass enrichment jet. And that won't make a change if the choke lever isn't pulled. The enrichment jet circuit operates only when the lever is pulled.

I frequently need to pull the choke to get the bike to fire up when hot. When I had the larger #38 pilot jet in, I didn't. Often it would even start when cool without the choke. That jet was too large.

It's not the preferred approach to tune the fuel screw to decel popping. But if you are running the fuel screw out 3.5 turns, you may want to look at a larger pilot jet. That'll give you good reason to pull the carb again, so you can do the 0.018" on enrichment jet too .

 

Good thing I didn't screw the diaphragm! LOL

I have a #128 Dynojet in there now, I'd hate to go up to a #132 and find it too rich. If I did that, I assume I would turn the mixture screw in a bit. The Dynojet instructions said to use the #128 based on my mods.

 

Pilot. The DJ kit did not include a different pilot jet. The main jet you changed was the 128 and has no effect on starting.

 

Gotcha, pilot. Sorry my kit didn't come with the pilot jet, so I never thought about changing that.

 

Try putting your stock filter back in and see if it improves. If so you know you are a little lean due to the K&N. Worth a try and easy to do.

 

Actually you are just a little bit rich.

When an engine is warm it needs less fuel for atomization. Also, the richer the bike, that faster it can come off the choke. Saying 15 seconds of choke is all you need, it is plenty rich then.

A simple experiment is just take the lid off the airbox and I bet it fires right up (more oxygen)

I try to recommend no bigger than a 124 main jet for a stock bore and basic mods. A 128 will work but you need to have a header, opened up air box, and be close to sea level.

 

My 250 likes a bit of throttle and no choke to warm start.

 

This is exactly how mine is (totally stock).

 

^^ Yep mine too...crack the throttle and bang,fires up strong