Alrights folks, I am tired of waiting for all of my mod components to arive. I need to start doing something now or I will go crazy!

So far, only the 13T sprocket has arrived. The Muzzy should be here today. Several of the carb items were backordered through RonAyers, but I am hoping that they will arive late this week. My Moose handguards & folding mirrors should be here on Thursday. My fat snorkel will not show up until next week (also backordered through Ron Ayers). My goal is to do almost everything on Saturday.

Since I don't want to tear into the carb but once, I figure I can't do even the air mix screw until the carb parts get here. My question is this, if I temporarily just remove my airbox lid, can I go ahead and install the Muzzy without doing the carb mods. I am pretty sure the answer is "no", but I want to make sure I am not overlooking an opportunity to get a jumpstart on things.

If the answer to that question is what I expect, then I guess I will just begin with the sprocket. I can also go ahead and install my Pelican 1400 and removable windshield.

Thanks for the info.

 

I'd hold off on airbox + Muzzy until you get the rest of the carb parts. You'll be running extra if you do that without rejetting, and extreme lean cases can result in too hot combustion which can lead to serious problems.

 

Thanks, Brian. I kind of figured that was the case, but sometimes you just have to hear it said before you can accept it.

BTW, really sorry to hear about your accident. On a selfish note, though, it will nice for the rest of us to have you tied to your computer for a while so that you are at our beck and call for timely answers to our questions. See, things have a way of working out. [&:] Seriously, though, I am glad it wasn't much worse.

I noticed in another thread that you told Deej you had been "initiated" and now you have the PWI title in your sig. What is PWI? I noticed it in Deej's signature and pretty much every other high-volume poster here on KF.

Thanks again for everything. Godspeed in your recovery.

Chris

 

Thanks, cwgoff - I do feel fortunate.

Regarding PWI - it is never spoken of nor explained, understanding will come to you when you are ready

 

Brian,

You must have the fastest "Left Handed Keyboard" in all of KLX250-land! [sm=bounceybounce.gif]



cwgoff,

As Brian has mentioned, removing the top of the airbox without changing the main jet can lead to some seriously lean conditions. If it were my bike, I would not do that.

However, if you want to get an idea of how much these mods will help, try this:

Get a couple of #4 stainless steel washers from you local ACE hardware store, about 9¢ each.

Stack one, possibly two under your currect needle.

Drill out the slide with a 7/64ths drill bit.

Drill out the pilot screw and set the adjustment to 2 to 2 1/4 turns.

Put on the 13 tooth countershaft sprocket.

Go for a ride and see what is in store for you!

 

Brian, I would have bet a million dollars that you were going to say that about the PWI thing. [>:]

 

Marty,

Thanks. I might do just that.

While we are on the topic, this leads to a point that I saw raised in another thread. It sounds like I can get to the needle and diapgragm just by removing the seat & gas tank. Is that right? If that is the case, then the only things require removal of the carb are the air mix screw change (the first time at least - to remove the plug) and the jet change. Am I thinking of these things correctly? In the long run, the point is moot because I am going to do it all, I am just trying to play through the whole thing in my head to make sure that I know the location and steps in each location.

Truth be told, my biggest concerns are (a) how much trouble am I going to have getting the carb off and then back on and (b) diaphragm handling. After hearing about Thunderchild's diaphragm issues, I am nervous about how long I am going to have the diaphragm off and if I will be able to get it seated back properly. Is this really a time-critical operation.

Thanks for the info - as always.

Chris

 

Chris,

I think that my diaphragm problem was a fluke. Seems like nobody else has had that happen. I guess I had my diaphragm out for 15 or 20 minutes. Doesn't take that long to do the work, but I was doing house chores at the same time. Got to keep the family happy, ya know.

Yes, you can get to the needle and diaphragm by just removing the seat and tank. That's what I did to reset my diaphragm the second time around. Slack off the hose clamps to make it easy to twist the carb a bit if you have to. I did.

Willum
TC

 

I know it seems like a big "unknown" at this point, but if you're prepared with all the parts on hand, you should be able to do the following steps in 5 minutes or less.

- remove carb top
- remove slide, diaphragm, spring, needle, collar
- set e-clip onto new needle (this can be done beforehand)
- put needle into slide, replace slide & diaphragm into carb.
- plastic collar, spring back on
- lid back on
- DONE!

It really is quick if you've got a clean place to work, parts on hand, and don't drop anything on the dirty ground!
(Not that I did that of course )

 

Thanks guys. That helps settle my mind down a lot.

Last question on this topic for now. I keep hearing about the "slide". Is this the actual hole that we are drilling out, or is there something in that hole. I assumed that the needle goes through the middle hole (i.e., the one we don't drill). Is that right.

Thanks.