whats the trick to do..
#21
02-18-2009, 10:16 PM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 21,060
I have never had to dump the clutch to pull a 50 ft wheelie. I have the 13 tooth front and the 45 rear. it's all a matter of gas and pull and slide back. And I have the pelican case so I can't slide back too far. Its all good. Get the 13 and 45, jet the bike and put a decent pipe on it and wheelies will become second nature. 
#22
02-19-2009, 12:52 AM
Here's proof positive that a box stock KLX250S will wheelie with a member of the AARP club driving...no mods, no gearing change, and a full belly of turkey from Thanksgiving lunch....and on wet leaves at that.!
Position yourself a little further back on the seat than normal, feet on the ground, lean forward a little, wind her up to about 4 or 5 grand, ...and here's the real key, quickly and smoothly let out the clutch while keeping the rev's up. Don't just drop the clutch, but let it out smoothly and quickly...this way if something goes wrong you can yank it back in....and keep the revs up, in fact as you feel the clutch engage and the rear wheel fight for traction, roll on some more throttle....piece of cake! (just be sure to practice on dirt or grass first...you need to get comfortable with feeling the rear wheel spin so you can control the amount of throttle and clutch.
Practice makes perfect....and good luck!
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Position yourself a little further back on the seat than normal, feet on the ground, lean forward a little, wind her up to about 4 or 5 grand, ...and here's the real key, quickly and smoothly let out the clutch while keeping the rev's up. Don't just drop the clutch, but let it out smoothly and quickly...this way if something goes wrong you can yank it back in....and keep the revs up, in fact as you feel the clutch engage and the rear wheel fight for traction, roll on some more throttle....piece of cake! (just be sure to practice on dirt or grass first...you need to get comfortable with feeling the rear wheel spin so you can control the amount of throttle and clutch.
Practice makes perfect....and good luck!
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#23
02-19-2009, 01:38 AM
Fun thread
deej, ya are now running 13:45...hmm..good stuff.
Wheele the klx, sure. One of my friends can wheelie a trail 70 a country mile and it has no clutch.
Problems wheelie-ing the klx is usually an issue between the footpegs and handlebars.
deej, ya are now running 13:45...hmm..good stuff.
Wheele the klx, sure. One of my friends can wheelie a trail 70 a country mile and it has no clutch.
Problems wheelie-ing the klx is usually an issue between the footpegs and handlebars.
#24
02-19-2009, 02:46 AM
Oh right, forgot to give the tip in my earlier post.
If you're moving, pull in the clutch, make a quick push on the suspension, as if you're trying to get the suspension to compress as much as possible with your body weight jumping on it, and all in one motion as you are jumping to compress the suspension rev it up, and just as the suspension starts to decompress and push back up, pop the clutch, or let it out very quickly.
The better you can perfect the motion the easier the bike comes up.
Even if you're in first gear to get a roll on wheelie you can just let off the throttle, and real quick roll back on and with the right body language no clutch would be needed. Especially with the right gearing and the sweetspot of power in the rpm range.
And most important of all....
Keep your foot on the rear brake.. It could save you some money and pain
If you're moving, pull in the clutch, make a quick push on the suspension, as if you're trying to get the suspension to compress as much as possible with your body weight jumping on it, and all in one motion as you are jumping to compress the suspension rev it up, and just as the suspension starts to decompress and push back up, pop the clutch, or let it out very quickly.
The better you can perfect the motion the easier the bike comes up.
Even if you're in first gear to get a roll on wheelie you can just let off the throttle, and real quick roll back on and with the right body language no clutch would be needed. Especially with the right gearing and the sweetspot of power in the rpm range.
And most important of all....
Keep your foot on the rear brake.. It could save you some money and pain
#25
02-19-2009, 02:57 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akjXuAFMTn8
You see him do just what I explained in the beginning of the vid.
You see him do just what I explained in the beginning of the vid.
#26
02-19-2009, 08:01 PM
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: sydney,australia
Posts: 399
well it looks like i wont be doing any wheelies any time soon, engine oil leak dumbed my 1.5L of oil, so when i was riding home at 8okph the back wheel locked, got it home on a tralier, new oil, started but would stall very easy....so a trip to the bike store is in order i think.
#27
02-19-2009, 09:34 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: IL south suburbs of chicago
Posts: 64
If you're practicing wheelies to be able to get over rocks and logs, then you need to get lower gearing. Either a smaller countershaft sprocket or a larger rear chainwheel or both. I run a 13T/51T setup, and for agressive off-road riding, that's what works best for me. You also need more power, but that's another story. If you want to practice wheelies for street riding. . . . DON'T. It's illegal, it's stupid and it really hurts when you go over backwards on blacktop! Just my 2 cents. . . .
#30
02-21-2009, 07:06 AM
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: sydney,australia
Posts: 399
after i got my bike to work again, i try out some new ways, i found that if a take my weight of the bike as i let out the cluch very quickly the front lift enough to balance ,
thanks for your help
thanks for your help