while all of these brands are excellent, some more money than others, I am a firm believer in sticking with one brand and weight of oil for your bike. It makes things more consistent internally if you stick to one brand. Switching brands may cause problems with seals, gaskets, lubrication in general. It may be just a myth, but this what I believe. And everyone knows that if IG believes it, you all should too.[sm=violin.gif]

 

Met people like that.

I was personally raised to believe that oil is oil, and so long as you don't mix dino with synthetic, you ought to be good to go.

 

I use Mobil-1 Racing 4T full synthetic. I too found that the bike shifts much smoother with the full synthetic. I use Mobil-1 because it is readily available at the Walmart by my house. From personal experience, I am convinced that full synthetic oils provide superior protection. I did not complete any scientific testing and can not supply any data to support that claim. I only know what I know. Not all synthetic automotive motor oils are "true" synthetics, but meet the definition as required by law (Group III synthetics). Mobil 1 (automotive) is a Group IV synthetic (Polyalphaolefin), I think Amsoil is a Group V (synthetic esters). I have not seen similar data explaining what types there are for motorcycle oils. I use Mobil-1 in my automobiles, again because it is readily available at a competitive price. If Amsoil 4-stroke oil was readily available at my location, I would use it.

A comparison of motorcycle oils can be found at:

http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/br..._oil_study.pdf

The study was commisssioned by Amsoil. Draw your own conclusions.

 

[/quote]

I was personally raised to believe that oil is oil, and so long as you don't mix dino with synthetic, you ought to be good to go.
[/quote]

It is perfectly acceptable to mix "mineral" oils with synthetics. "Synthetic-Blends" are a cheaper alternative to full synthetics, and are a mixture of mineral oil and no more than 30% synthetic oil.

 

well correct me if i'm wrong because i usally am. BUT I do belive that using fully synthetic oil with our bikes (and others that share the clutch basket oil with the crank case) will reslut in film like build up on the clutch plates that makes them slip? i was advised to use a blend if i wanted to go systhetic and it would be better then the fully synthetic for that reason. google it... i'm to lazy i just belive what the dude in the shop says. I use the spectrum gold synthetic blend 10-40 year round and change around 1700-2300
here i found an article out of sport rider mag, didnt really read it all but it sounds like its saying the same thing http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html

 

(from the link above)

Can synthetic oils cause my clutch to slip?
To answer this in one word: No. Clutch slippage is caused by many things, but the use of synthetic oil alone is usually not the culprit. The truth is that some bikes seem to suffer clutch slippage no matter what oil goes in them, while others run fine with any oil. This is most likely caused by factors other than the oil, such as the spring pressure, age and clutch plate materials. If you have a bike known for clutch problems, you may have to be more selective in your oil choices.Moly is often blamed for clutch slippage, and it can have an effect-but moly alone is not the problem. We wish there was a hard and fast rule to follow, but it is just not that easy. Simply put, you will have to try an oil and evaluate it. If you experience slippage with the new oil, and have not had problems before, it may be the oil. The plates and/or springs could also be worn to the point that they have finally started to slip. Simply change back to the previous oil and see what happens. You can also check the test data in next issue's article to see if that particular oil has a significant amount of moly. If so, try one that does not have as much moly next time.

 

I've been using Motorex Power Synt 4T 10W50 in the KaTooM. It's a fully synthetic and recommended by KTM after the first 3-hours of run time when you dump the break-in oil as shipped from the factory. I've had no reason to change to another brand, other than it's a little pricey, but it only takes 1.2 litres so a gallon is good for at least 3, nearly 4 oil changes. No clutch slippage here. I think the important thing is that if you use full synthetic, use one made for a motorcycle wet clutch, it should say on the label. Also check that it meets the various standards that are called for in the manual. That will be on the label also.

 

I have used these oilsso far:
Mobil 1 4T 10w-40 (Full Synthetic, and is $8.46 @ Wal-Mart)
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50 (Full Synthetic, $8.46 a Qt., Recommended only for Summer use, Throttle Response is slowed but runs smoother and quiter)
Royal Purple MaxCycle 10w-40 (Full Synthetic, $9-13 a Qt., My favorite choice but I do have to special order it since its not carried localy anywhere)

I usually run around 750-1000 miles before changing. The oil should at least be changed every 1000-3000 miles, depending on the conditions driven.

Ironicly, I have done more oil changes on the KLX(April 2007)since I own itthan my Ford Ranger (April 2004). But both run great and use full synthetic. Ranger gets a change every 5k miles.

 

I use what the bike shop recommended, I think its Motul something or other

 

Amsoil 10/40 Motorcycle oil. Very good stuff[sm=signs007.gif]