disconnect the battery first !!!!!

 

SWEET MAN---------------another clusterf**k on the horizon, I will be watching this from afar. Nothing better than taking something that isnt broken and totally ruining it.
As far as advice goes....................LEAVE IT ALONE and ride the damn bike LOL
I think you should bolt on a turbo next.
I know I am being an ***, but someone had to be.

 

Alright *******.

First off, my old headlight wasn't nearly bright enough to provide anywhere close to safe riding conditions at night. I couldn't simply replace the bulb either because it was an old discontinued aftermarket Acerbis headlight that was on the bike from the previous owner. I bought the X2 headlight months ago before I knew that I would have to remove the ignition to mount the light properly. If you ask me, the ignition location was terribly engineered anyways. Maybe not from a marketing standpoint as it encourages lazy owners to just keep replacing broken parts with OEM stock parts.

Secondly, I've already got the ignition pulled off of the frame. I drilled out the break away bolts and used a 4" grinder to cut the lip around the ignition. So no problem there. I simply needed some help from others that have installed a toggle switch in place of the ignition.

My bike is looking 10x's better then it has ever looked before and is running majestically. I've taken an analytic approach to everything I've done since blowing my top end up and it's paying off. I'll post before and after pictures of everything once this is all said and done. If anyone remembers, it looked like a 4 year old wired my bikes electrical system together. I have successfully rewired all secondary components of the bike and it is much cleaner and I feel much better knowing that everything is soldered and put together correctly. I'm not as incompetent as you seem to think. In the past, I ran before I crawled and learned a good lesson from it. Never again.

 

Just what I needed, thanks.

 

Maybe you didn't know this, but schematics are in the service manual.

Ron

 

All the locks in the world won't prevent a couple of guys from just picking the bike up and stuffing it in the back of a pickup.

Ron

 

That's total bull, Ron. My ignition/fork lock switch also activates a magnetic earth circuit causing my KLX to increase in weight to that of a KLR650. Even an NFL offensive line couldn't pick up a KLR and put it in a pickup.

Yeah, for sure, that kind of serious theft attempt won't be defeated by a fork lock or similar device. I sure like my fork lock, however. But I am lazy.

 

Ouch, man! I think many of us have gigged jhoff a little bit on some of his projects, but that's kind of harsh. Have you been drinking again?

 

TNC, I was reading some of your older posts across a few klx forums about the bike being hard to start in the cold. I've noticed recently that the bike is much, much harder to start now than it was before in this cold Ohio weather. To add to that, my battery is not in the best shape right now so I think it would be a good idea for me get this straightened out before I get stranded with a dead battery from the cold starting issues.

I saw the picture of the carby with the starting jet and it seems like a pretty simple procedure from what I can see. Just drill it out with a #17 drill bit, right? I'm worried about doing too much damage because that jet is pressed in there and it's soft brass.

 

I agree it sounds a bit scary to drill into what is basically a permanent jet, but honestly it's a very easy task. I'm not as up on the #17 drill bit size, but if it is about .018" of an inch it will work. I and most others just did it by hand, no power tools recommended. I have a little hand-held drill bit holder from an X-acto kit, and some just used a pair of vice grips and carefully, slowly turned the drill bit into the soft brass. It is easy as long as one doesn't get hamfisted or impatient. It really does solve the cold starting issue that many of us experienced.