I'm curious to know how many of you use a torque wrench. I want to open the engine to do the camshaft mod, but I am reluctant to do it because I don't have a torque wrench.

Thoughts? Thanks.

 

Well, alot of people have different thoughts about this. I use a torque wrench when ever I can when it calls for one. Motorcycle, cars, snowmobile, etc. It doesn't take that long to set it up. I like the craftsman ones from sears bacasue they have ft. lbs. and newton meters. I have craftsman everything because it's about 1/3 the cost of snap-on. I'm an industial maint. mechanic and 15 out of 17 guys use craftsman. Is snap-on a quality tool? Of course it is, but craftsman is life time guarantee just like snap-on. I have had my craftsman torque wrench replaced 2 times beacuse I dropped it with no questions asked. Some sears will exchange them and some will not.

 

$30 well spent. Why wouldn't you. I've got a couple, one 1/4", and one 3/8" with a 1/2" adapter.

 

Yes, have one (two). They don't cost that much.

 

I would not do the job with out one.

David

 

Yes, if I can find a torque value in the manual I'll use a torque wrench on it. Then you have the peace of mind knowing you're not going to strip any threads, warp any parts, or have the bike fall apart at the worst moment.

 

Sears replaced a tq wrench?
I was told that they would not because it is a calibrated tool.

 

I have used a standard beam style torque wrench since around 1985, still good. I got it on sale for $8 at Montgomery Wards. Had it checked once by Snap On salesperson and it was in spec, no problem. They're usually lower priced, no calibration since the characteristics of steel deflection remain constant, can take being dropped should it happen, can be in a tool box without special care, and can be used instantly with installation of the proper socket. Because of this I've resisted buying any click type, just haven't needed to do so.

Not knocking the clickers and dial type, just pointing out the low buck wonders do actually work. The only disadvantage that can be circumvented easily, is that you have to be able to see the dial. But in another forum a rider pointed out that you can mark the edge or back of the scale with a piece of tape or a sharpie at the value you need. So it can by used upside down or sideways.

Most people who use them for a living will pay more and get the click or really high buck dial indicator type. These are more fragile and can go out of calibration, but the fact is the range of torque on most bolts is actually broad enough that isn't an issue. Most wrenches are +/-5% or so and since most specs given in manuals do not give a +/- tolerance or range for tightening, it can pretty much be assumed that being within 10% will be good.

It's all in what you want to spend. Most beams are relying on the unchanging metalurgy of the steel beam (arm) of the wrench for deflection for the force applied, the others rely on mechanisms to measure force applied. Both can work. I don't know how accurate the $20 special clickers from Harbor Freight are, but something is better than nothing when tightening down the cam cap and other small fasteners on bikes.

 

Good post klx678. Hadn't heard nor thought of the mark/tape trick on the beam type torque wrench to get around the "can't see the pointer". Basically bullet proof they are. Parts that aren't there can't mess up.
And a click type can't be used to do rolling torque (bearing preload).

 

A torque wrench is essential to the long-term reliability of your machine. A week-long road trip on my 919 reconfirmed this for me recently.

In the interests of minimizing weight during my trip, I left the torque wrench at home and brought a breaker-bar instead. My chain required adjustment along the way and so I torqued the rear axle nut by ‘feel’ using the breaker bar. Several days later, after a morning of sustained speeds of ~200km/h, I threw a rear wheel bearing. I attribute the failure to my having over-torqued the rear-end thus placing excessive stress on the bearing races.

Luckily the local snowmobile shop was willing to order & replace my bearings, and I was on my way after over-nighting it in a town I’d never heard of before. I am convinced that a torque-wrench would have prevented any of this, or worse, from happening.