TM36-68 carb question
#1
TM36-68 carb question
Hi All,
So I have decided to buy the TM36-68 to replace stock
Currently running 128 main jet, stock pilot
I ride anywhere from sea level to 3000'
Other info in signature
My question is - would I be ok with what is supplied with carb?
Main jet: 130
Pilot jet: 12.5
Needle jet: T84-13002 P-8
Jet needle: 9DZH6-50
From what I have read, it looks like "plug & play"
Will my Dynojet jets fit into this unit?
Any suggestions on what else to be prepared for, before the carb comes in?
Thanks
So I have decided to buy the TM36-68 to replace stock
Currently running 128 main jet, stock pilot
I ride anywhere from sea level to 3000'
Other info in signature
My question is - would I be ok with what is supplied with carb?
Main jet: 130
Pilot jet: 12.5
Needle jet: T84-13002 P-8
Jet needle: 9DZH6-50
From what I have read, it looks like "plug & play"
Will my Dynojet jets fit into this unit?
Any suggestions on what else to be prepared for, before the carb comes in?
Thanks
#2
I'm running 130K main, 32.5K pilot, @ 3300 ft +. You may want to consider a 132K main. My air screw is 7/8 out. edit....that is on bored 33, not the 36, sorry.
Last edited by durielk; 12-04-2016 at 04:50 PM.
#4
Jetting in my sig line good for higher elevations on a 351. In the FAQs you should find an on-line jetting spreadsheet with lots of good info.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...Dnc/edit#gid=0
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...Dnc/edit#gid=0
#5
The stock jetting will be a good starting point. Like Brewster suggested, spend the time to adjust the slide settings and the pump timing/nozzle alignment. Mine is a little cold blooded until the engine gets a bit of temp then she rips.
#6
Your going to love that carb once it's dialed in but going to hate it until you get it right. I've had mine out at least 10 times getting the jetting right but it's bang on now. Follow the chart that has been provided in the previous post using your engine size and elevation will get you in the ball park. Fine tune from there. Also the throttle cables can be challenging and your going to have to decide if you want to run both or just the pull cable. I'm running both with no binding and did not modify my throttle cam.
#7
I only use the pull cable.
The stock cables are a tight fit but can be routed to work. But, an extra 2" is better.
https://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/custom/
Ride on
Brewster
The stock cables are a tight fit but can be routed to work. But, an extra 2" is better.
https://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/custom/
Ride on
Brewster
#8
I only use the pull cable.
The stock cables are a tight fit but can be routed to work. But, an extra 2" is better.
https://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/custom/
Ride on
Brewster
The stock cables are a tight fit but can be routed to work. But, an extra 2" is better.
https://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/custom/
Ride on
Brewster
#9
Just for thread clarity, cutting the return cable segment of the throttle wheel was a necessity for those of us with the big Acerbis tank and may not be required for other tanks?
#10
I understood the the Acerbis tanks sits lower than stock so you have to modify the carb cam. I'm running the stock tank with both stock cables with no binding or cable pull from lock to lock. I know lots run just one cable with no issue but with a little effort I was able to run both.