Supermoto conversion - question on parts
#1
Supermoto conversion - question on parts
Hi guys,
So I want to convert convert my KLX250 to supermoto with the ability to easily swap back and forth between the standard setup and the supermoto setup.
I know the easiest thing to do would be to get the OEM kit from Kawasaki, but I have a friend at an importer who can give me a pretty great deal saving over $1,000. So to him I go.
Now, my question is on the wheels. From research I want 3.5"x17" on the front and 4.25"x17" on the rear.
My question is, can I use any type of wheel that fits these dimensions? I'm looking at Excel brand. I guess the main issue if I want to swap back and forth is the hubs, right? I'm thinking this might be where I get stuck.
So I want to convert convert my KLX250 to supermoto with the ability to easily swap back and forth between the standard setup and the supermoto setup.
I know the easiest thing to do would be to get the OEM kit from Kawasaki, but I have a friend at an importer who can give me a pretty great deal saving over $1,000. So to him I go.
Now, my question is on the wheels. From research I want 3.5"x17" on the front and 4.25"x17" on the rear.
My question is, can I use any type of wheel that fits these dimensions? I'm looking at Excel brand. I guess the main issue if I want to swap back and forth is the hubs, right? I'm thinking this might be where I get stuck.
#2
What year KLX? And it's not easy to swap back and forth. Suspension settings, sidestand length, gearing, different chains for different gearing etc etc. My 2006 I bought D-Tracker wheels which were a direct swap.
Last edited by MaverickAus; 12-28-2015 at 01:08 AM.
#3
Hi Maverick, thanks for your reply.
It's a 2012.
Yeah, am aware of chain and sprockets - i've already lined up a combo for dirt and road so that's okay. I'll have different sprockets fitted to the different wheels read to go and brake discs on them, too.
Not really worried about the kickstand height - i know about the issue with it. Suspension I'm not too worried about either - i've putting some gold valves upfront which should alleviate some of the issues.
My main concern is the wheels and hubs and what I need to look out with that.
It's a 2012.
Yeah, am aware of chain and sprockets - i've already lined up a combo for dirt and road so that's okay. I'll have different sprockets fitted to the different wheels read to go and brake discs on them, too.
Not really worried about the kickstand height - i know about the issue with it. Suspension I'm not too worried about either - i've putting some gold valves upfront which should alleviate some of the issues.
My main concern is the wheels and hubs and what I need to look out with that.
#5
I believe you need to have the 2009 and later hub for the digital instrumentation's electronic drive. Only way around it would be to go to a Vapor instrument and then you can use any KLX/KDX front hub. That wouldn't be a horrible idea since you can probably easily program for whichever wheel set you have with the Vapor.
One key difference - front rotor size. The S has a smaller rotor, so you need to get matching rotors to do the job. If you want the big rotor you need to get the caliper mount from an SF and two SF rotors, otherwise get a second S rotor - which is the same as the KLX300 and a number of other Kaw off roaders. Just make sure of the mount bolt hole count. I've got KLX300 rotors front and rear on my 2009, but I did have to get the carrier for the smaller 300 rear rotor.
Here is the low down:
I've considered doing the 300mm rotor on my 250, but the front is so strong as is, the bigger rotor would be overkill. I happen to have a 650C and a spare set of hubs I got to do it up supermoto with roll in wheels like you want. But I got a 250 for the dual sport stuff.
The cheapest way to do your bike is to stay with the smaller front rotor since there are cheap used rotors that will work for it. The 300mm rotors are rarer and thus more expensive. Of course if you buy new it doesn't matter. Plus you don't need to go with a new carrier on the front. If you go with the larger rotor you will need the carrier, which is also not common and not cheap. It all depends on what you want and want to spend.
Any 36 hole rim with the right spoke angle cuts will work, Exel, Takagi, Sun, whatever. In my digging I find it is probably cheapest to buy a whole wheel set up and if you find used SF stuff go for it. Rims run upward of $200 each, spoke sets around $90, hubs probably at least $100 for a front one and if you can't lace the wheels you're looking at about another $90 each. So if you find a pair of SF wheels for say $600, that ain't bad!
One key difference - front rotor size. The S has a smaller rotor, so you need to get matching rotors to do the job. If you want the big rotor you need to get the caliper mount from an SF and two SF rotors, otherwise get a second S rotor - which is the same as the KLX300 and a number of other Kaw off roaders. Just make sure of the mount bolt hole count. I've got KLX300 rotors front and rear on my 2009, but I did have to get the carrier for the smaller 300 rear rotor.
Here is the low down:
- KLX250S - 260mm rotor, same as the KLX250/300/650R and some of the KX series
- KLX250SF - 300mm rotor, same as the size on the KLX650C dual sport (but that is rare as hen's teeth)
- 2006-7 KLX250S - 220mm rear rotor, same as KLX300/650R and I think 650C
- 2009-14 KLX250S/SF - 240mm rear rotor
I've considered doing the 300mm rotor on my 250, but the front is so strong as is, the bigger rotor would be overkill. I happen to have a 650C and a spare set of hubs I got to do it up supermoto with roll in wheels like you want. But I got a 250 for the dual sport stuff.
The cheapest way to do your bike is to stay with the smaller front rotor since there are cheap used rotors that will work for it. The 300mm rotors are rarer and thus more expensive. Of course if you buy new it doesn't matter. Plus you don't need to go with a new carrier on the front. If you go with the larger rotor you will need the carrier, which is also not common and not cheap. It all depends on what you want and want to spend.
Any 36 hole rim with the right spoke angle cuts will work, Exel, Takagi, Sun, whatever. In my digging I find it is probably cheapest to buy a whole wheel set up and if you find used SF stuff go for it. Rims run upward of $200 each, spoke sets around $90, hubs probably at least $100 for a front one and if you can't lace the wheels you're looking at about another $90 each. So if you find a pair of SF wheels for say $600, that ain't bad!
#7
http://rs139.pbsrc.com/albums/q296/d...h=480&fit=clip this is a picture of my bike, I'm selling the wheels rotor and bracket for the calliper, I bought a cruiser for the street so the KLX will be off road only. PM me if you're interested.
Last edited by redbrd; 12-29-2015 at 02:46 PM.
#8
There is a good source for stuff that works! Now if you only listed your location that would make it easy to see if it is a good source for you. It would be possible to work out a deal if the OP is in the US, to do the shipping south of the border if possible. If in Canada, no problem, right?
#9
There is a super Moto club around here in Vancouver I would prefer to sell them locally, I haven't advertised them yet I don't think it would be hard to sell them , but if a deal could be made I could ship down to the states.
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