Sulfur smell leads to dead battery, roadside rescue
#11
07-17-2014, 03:09 PM
Your experience with your KLX doesn't seem to be the norm by any means...but...stuff happens. Why not just check for voltage across your battery terminals? Hook up the volt meter to the battery terminals. Run the engine up and down the rpm range a bit...you don't have to go to redline of course. You should get a readout something in the range of about 14-14.5 volts as a general rule of thumb. Do this with a fully charged battery. If you're getting much more than 14.5, this is a good sign of a failed regulator. I don't have my shop manual in front of me, but I'm surprised it doesn't show a simple test and voltage values like I laid out here. The higher the voltage goes past 14.5 volts, the more likely you'll gas the battery and get that smell.
#12
07-17-2014, 06:03 PM
Just so you guys understand: the battery was a replacement, not OEM. I believe it was replaced previously due to this overcharging problem. The factory service manual shows a kind of complicated procedure where you test the regulator/rectifier using first one 12v battery, then two in series, then three. You must use a test light to perform the test. As I don't just have three motorcycle batteries laying about, I ended up having to purchase two 5aH 12v alarm batteries off eBay to rig up this ridiculous test. I know if I took my regulator/rectifier to my friendly local Kawasaki dealer, it would take them two hours, they'd charge me $100, and probably screw it up. I'm on my last legs financially here finishing out a Master's degree and my "job," such as it is, pays me less than a fry cook's wage to tutor math as I am going every month into the red just purchasing fuel and food. This motorcycle has cost me $500 in registration, repair and maintenance over two months, something my 16 year old Honda never did. Now it looks like I may have to spend another r$100 on a part that has no business dying on a 4,000 mile old bike, and I've been trapped inside my house because the mechanic has my 22 year old Motorcycle Support Vehicle at his shop for THREE WEEKS converting the air to r134a.
Sorry for the rant. I'm just pissed off about the worthless chain tensioner and the potentiality that a young bike like the KLX might be a piece of junk after I paid top dollar for it.
Sorry for the rant. I'm just pissed off about the worthless chain tensioner and the potentiality that a young bike like the KLX might be a piece of junk after I paid top dollar for it.
"New" batteries are not always new. Many sit on a shelf for too long and can be bad by the time you install them. Look for a datecode when possible. I wouldn't touch one that's been sitting for more than a few months. 6 months would be questionable. Anything longer than that would be compromised. Buying batteries off the internet also seems to be a bad idea. No idea of what you're gonna get.
The tensioner is an easy fix. Throw the manual tensioner on it and be done with it. http://www.kriegercamchaintensioners.com/
#14
07-17-2014, 10:33 PM
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 1,422
#15
07-17-2014, 10:54 PM
4 Cell EVO2 $109.95 ($98.99 at RMATV) vs. the stock YTX7L-BS for $53.99 and the Tusk version for $34.99. You can get 2 or 3 regular batteries, get 10-15 years of service for the price of one Lithium Iron battery. If you don't need to shave the weight, not worth it IMO. They are cool though.
#16
07-17-2014, 10:59 PM
from their site:
The 4 Cell model can easily start a 600cc sport bike, but we recommend them only for 600cc sport bike racing applications. If you ride your 600cc sport bike on the street, we recommend the 8 Cell model. The 4 Cell EVO2 is designed for use in multi-cylinder applications of less than 550cc and for 350cc and under 4 stroke single cylinder dirt bikes, scooters, and ATVs. There is no special charger required, but periodic balance charging the 4 Cell EVO2 with our Ballistic Performance Components BMS charger will greatly extend the life of the battery.
Don't forget to factor in the "special charger" to get this to last. These charge up to 13.6V. A regular battery charges up to 12.7. That higher charge can only be accomplished with a "special charger" with a higher output voltage. The KLX will get it to 80%, but you'll kill the life span of the battery without the "special charger".
#17
07-17-2014, 11:33 PM
One note on the "special" charger, it is the exact same charger I use for my RC batteries. It is a very generic charger sold under a variety of names (i.e. IMAX B6) anywhere from $50 to $75. You can get them at any hobby store.
Battery Charger - Ballistic Performance Components
Battery Charger - Ballistic Performance Components
#18
07-17-2014, 11:44 PM
One note on the "special" charger, it is the exact same charger I use for my RC batteries. It is a very generic charger sold under a variety of names (i.e. IMAX B6) anywhere from $50 to $75. You can get them at any hobby store.
Battery Charger - Ballistic Performance Components
Battery Charger - Ballistic Performance Components
#19
07-17-2014, 11:53 PM
For as little as I spend on my bike I can splurge every now and again. One thing I think that's cool about this battery is the ability to charge the battery to a storage level and then not have to worry about it being on a battery tender. I do the same thing with my RC batteries. If I'm not going to use them anytime soon I'll charge them to a storage level and then top them off when I need them.
This feature would be ideal for people who can't ride in the winter and their bike sits for 6-months.
This feature would be ideal for people who can't ride in the winter and their bike sits for 6-months.
#20
07-18-2014, 04:26 PM
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Frederick
Posts: 17
UPDATE 7.14.2014 to first post
I updated the situation at the end of my first post.
Not good - got a massive failure of the rectifier/regulator.
Not good - got a massive failure of the rectifier/regulator.