Strange Muzzy slipon install (updated)
ORIGINAL: Iowaguy
just fyi, the 250 header and 300 header are identical except the 300 one is longer. if you read what larry roeseler wrote, according to him the oem header is too small and isn't even as large as the exhaust outlet that it bolts up to thus hindering airflow and power. there's power to be had there if one gets a larger header. glad to hear you finally got the bike to sound like a true thumper and no more moped.
just fyi, the 250 header and 300 header are identical except the 300 one is longer. if you read what larry roeseler wrote, according to him the oem header is too small and isn't even as large as the exhaust outlet that it bolts up to thus hindering airflow and power. there's power to be had there if one gets a larger header. glad to hear you finally got the bike to sound like a true thumper and no more moped.
ORIGINAL: cool change
Hey Snal did you run the muzzy minus the quiet core at all. I just got the muzzy on minus the quiet core and it is Damn loud. I was wondering if the core really helped alot or not. It certainly made a difference on the power though. I haven't done the air box mods yet but I am presently ripping it apart now. Happy wrenching!! Jeremy
Hey Snal did you run the muzzy minus the quiet core at all. I just got the muzzy on minus the quiet core and it is Damn loud. I was wondering if the core really helped alot or not. It certainly made a difference on the power though. I haven't done the air box mods yet but I am presently ripping it apart now. Happy wrenching!! Jeremy
With or without the quiet core, it sounds the same at idle. It's too loud without it at higher rpms. I tried to run it for a few days without the spark screen and quiet core but I was sure I was gonna get pulled over. Sounded great though!
Well...I found some jets locally. A 125 main, 127.5 main, and a 32 pilot. Tore into the carb this evening (what a freak'n nightmare!...Harley's are sooo much easier!) and popped the 127.5 and 32 in. Air mixture screw was set at 1.5 turns out so I went to 2. Buttoned everything up and went for a ride on the street. She started right up cold, and idled well with choke to start and choke off as soon as it started (68 degrees) did well thru the gears with slightly heavy throttle, but she choked and sputtered with a 5th or 6th gear full throttle roll-on from cruising speeds. I pulled back into the garage with the thought that she was a bit rich. I pulled the airbox lid, and took off again. This time zipping thru the gears was "zippier" and 5th and 6th gear roll-ons were crisp and clean with no flutter, hesitation, or bogging....even up hill. So I suppose I'll go with a full airbox cover of Outerwears and see if she likes that idea.
BTW...the Muzzy has awonderful "I like it!" groan when ya twist the throttle without the airbox lid.
Muzzy slipon, 2 turns out on the mix, 127.5 main, 32 pilot, lost the lid, stock needle.....made for a completely different bike VS stock!
I think I'm done with her. At 47 I'm not the daredevil that some of you young whipersnapers are...she pulled the wheel in 3rd without the airbox lid, that's about all I'll ask of her.
I would be interested in dirt riding lessons from anyone that has the patience required to train an old fart with a smile.
BTW...the Muzzy has awonderful "I like it!" groan when ya twist the throttle without the airbox lid.
Muzzy slipon, 2 turns out on the mix, 127.5 main, 32 pilot, lost the lid, stock needle.....made for a completely different bike VS stock!
I think I'm done with her. At 47 I'm not the daredevil that some of you young whipersnapers are...she pulled the wheel in 3rd without the airbox lid, that's about all I'll ask of her.
I would be interested in dirt riding lessons from anyone that has the patience required to train an old fart with a smile.
Just curious as to what made you go down in pilot size and not do anything to the needle valve.
What else could you change/modify to get your final results and still keep the airbox lid on?....you think turning the mixture screw to 2.5 would have helped?
What else could you change/modify to get your final results and still keep the airbox lid on?....you think turning the mixture screw to 2.5 would have helped?
ORIGINAL: JB1
Just curious as to what made you go down in pilot size and not do anything to the needle valve.
What else could you change/modify to get your final results and still keep the airbox lid on?....you think turning the mixture screw to 2.5 would have helped?
Just curious as to what made you go down in pilot size and not do anything to the needle valve.
What else could you change/modify to get your final results and still keep the airbox lid on?....you think turning the mixture screw to 2.5 would have helped?
I could drop down to a 125 main I think, and keep the lid, but I'm guessing there, should be fairly close though. I was not a fan of "no lid" and I'm still not, but I have researched the Outerwears stuff and I'm sold enough on the water "resistant" claim to try it. I'm not too familiar with the different filter elements, I'm running a Moose pre-oiled right now...K&N or Uni might flow better...idunno...but I got what I could find locally. Better filter flow might have me going to the double snorkle thing....time will tell.
I almost left the mixture alone, personally, I don't think it makes a huge difference in the overall picture unless it becomes evident after all mods have been done. I've had several Sportsters...and I stopped messing with the mixture until "after" I re-jetted for pipes and the breather...if it felt like it needed tweeking...I did it...if not...I left it alone....I left it alone in most cases.
I don't think I've seen reference to this in this forum anywhere, but care should be taken when seating the mixture screw if you decide to see how far out it was set at the factory...take care not to use too much "force" when turning inward...you can screw up the carb...simply "gently" bottom it out while counting the turns. I made a screwdriver to do this with on a running carb, and it's gotta be short. I usually set the mix with the bike running....turn it in until it starts to stumble...then count the turns out till it starts to stumble....split the difference and leave it there (do this with the bike warm). I didn't do this on my 250...I just checked the factory setting, and guessed at 2 turns out from seated after seeing that the factory setting was at 1.5 turns....an educated guess on my part...ymmv.
Really...all of this jetting and mixture stuff can't be taken as law by anybody...ya gotta do it under YOUR variables, and take alot of things into consideration...how does it FEEL under throttle where YOU are...and how does the plug look where YOU are. The CV (constant velocity) carb is wonderful at adjusting to medium changes in elevation as well as other conditions, but asking it to run the same at sea level and at the top of the Alps is asking too much. Just tune it to where you ride most often and let it go.
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you really need to get that tiny header pipe off of it to make any adjustments to carb and mixture. how would you like it if you were running a marathon but could only breathe out of a mcdonalds straw? you wouldn't perform very well either. also, unless you were clutching like crazy or pulling with all your might there is no way it lofted the front wheel in 3rd gear. only 450's will do that or bored out 250's with pumpers. only way iget into a wheelie is shifting from 1st to 2nd or clutch it in 2nd and then it will ride it nearly to 4th, but unless you have sunk close to a grand into the bike, this ain't no power roll-on wheelie popping machine.
ORIGINAL: Iowaguy
you really need to get that tiny header pipe off of it to make any adjustments to carb and mixture. how would you like it if you were running a marathon but could only breathe out of a mcdonalds straw? you wouldn't perform very well either. also, unless you were clutching like crazy or pulling with all your might there is no way it lofted the front wheel in 3rd gear. only 450's will do that or bored out 250's with pumpers. only way iget into a wheelie is shifting from 1st to 2nd or clutch it in 2nd and then it will ride it nearly to 4th, but unless you have sunk close to a grand into the bike, this ain't no power roll-on wheelie popping machine.
you really need to get that tiny header pipe off of it to make any adjustments to carb and mixture. how would you like it if you were running a marathon but could only breathe out of a mcdonalds straw? you wouldn't perform very well either. also, unless you were clutching like crazy or pulling with all your might there is no way it lofted the front wheel in 3rd gear. only 450's will do that or bored out 250's with pumpers. only way iget into a wheelie is shifting from 1st to 2nd or clutch it in 2nd and then it will ride it nearly to 4th, but unless you have sunk close to a grand into the bike, this ain't no power roll-on wheelie popping machine.
And no...she didn't do a 3rd gear "roll-on wheelie".......what she did was bring the wheel up about 10" briefly, when I hit 3rd on dry, flat, pavement. I wasn't expecting it, or trying to make it happen, I was concentrating on winding her out to see if there were any flat spots.
ORIGINAL: Snal
Oooops!...the pilot was a 38...the original pilot was unmarked, but it is listed as a 35 (optional) or 32 standard.
I could drop down to a 125 main I think, and keep the lid, but I'm guessing there, should be fairly close though. I was not a fan of "no lid" and I'm still not, but I have researched the Outerwears stuff and I'm sold enough on the water "resistant" claim to try it. I'm not too familiar with the different filter elements, I'm running a Moose pre-oiled right now...K&N or Uni might flow better...idunno...but I got what I could find locally. Better filter flow might have me going to the double snorkle thing....time will tell.
I almost left the mixture alone, personally, I don't think it makes a huge difference in the overall picture unless it becomes evident after all mods have been done. I've had several Sportsters...and I stopped messing with the mixture until "after" I re-jetted for pipes and the breather...if it felt like it needed tweeking...I did it...if not...I left it alone....I left it alone in most cases.
I don't think I've seen reference to this in this forum anywhere, but care should be taken when seating the mixture screw if you decide to see how far out it was set at the factory...take care not to use too much "force" when turning inward...you can screw up the carb...simply "gently" bottom it out while counting the turns. I made a screwdriver to do this with on a running carb, and it's gotta be short. I usually set the mix with the bike running....turn it in until it starts to stumble...then count the turns out till it starts to stumble....split the difference and leave it there (do this with the bike warm). I didn't do this on my 250...I just checked the factory setting, and guessed at 2 turns out from seated after seeing that the factory setting was at 1.5 turns....an educated guess on my part...ymmv.
Really...all of this jetting and mixture stuff can't be taken as law by anybody...ya gotta do it under YOUR variables, and take alot of things into consideration...how does it FEEL under throttle where YOU are...and how does the plug look where YOU are. The CV (constant velocity) carb is wonderful at adjusting to medium changes in elevation as well as other conditions, but asking it to run the same at sea level and at the top of the Alps is asking too much. Just tune it to where you ride most often and let it go.
ORIGINAL: JB1
Just curious as to what made you go down in pilot size and not do anything to the needle valve.
What else could you change/modify to get your final results and still keep the airbox lid on?....you think turning the mixture screw to 2.5 would have helped?
Just curious as to what made you go down in pilot size and not do anything to the needle valve.
What else could you change/modify to get your final results and still keep the airbox lid on?....you think turning the mixture screw to 2.5 would have helped?
I could drop down to a 125 main I think, and keep the lid, but I'm guessing there, should be fairly close though. I was not a fan of "no lid" and I'm still not, but I have researched the Outerwears stuff and I'm sold enough on the water "resistant" claim to try it. I'm not too familiar with the different filter elements, I'm running a Moose pre-oiled right now...K&N or Uni might flow better...idunno...but I got what I could find locally. Better filter flow might have me going to the double snorkle thing....time will tell.
I almost left the mixture alone, personally, I don't think it makes a huge difference in the overall picture unless it becomes evident after all mods have been done. I've had several Sportsters...and I stopped messing with the mixture until "after" I re-jetted for pipes and the breather...if it felt like it needed tweeking...I did it...if not...I left it alone....I left it alone in most cases.
I don't think I've seen reference to this in this forum anywhere, but care should be taken when seating the mixture screw if you decide to see how far out it was set at the factory...take care not to use too much "force" when turning inward...you can screw up the carb...simply "gently" bottom it out while counting the turns. I made a screwdriver to do this with on a running carb, and it's gotta be short. I usually set the mix with the bike running....turn it in until it starts to stumble...then count the turns out till it starts to stumble....split the difference and leave it there (do this with the bike warm). I didn't do this on my 250...I just checked the factory setting, and guessed at 2 turns out from seated after seeing that the factory setting was at 1.5 turns....an educated guess on my part...ymmv.
Really...all of this jetting and mixture stuff can't be taken as law by anybody...ya gotta do it under YOUR variables, and take alot of things into consideration...how does it FEEL under throttle where YOU are...and how does the plug look where YOU are. The CV (constant velocity) carb is wonderful at adjusting to medium changes in elevation as well as other conditions, but asking it to run the same at sea level and at the top of the Alps is asking too much. Just tune it to where you ride most often and let it go.
For what its worth I sat down and figured out the flow area of the double snorkel mod vs. just running no snorkel. And running with no snorkel provides just a tad more opening for air flow, plus there are no losses from all the bends and length of the snorkels. Presently I'm running a 125 main, 40 pilot, no snorkel, the full 300 stock exhaust w/no butt cap,and I'm ~230 feet above sea level. It runs pretty good and will pull hard up to ~8500-9000, I've never hit the rev limiter because it just kinda runs outta steam before then. I've never done a true plug chop, just cleaned the plug, and checked it a while later after riding and its always been a bit on the dark side, not in danger of fouling but its the darker side of tan.
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