Steering Bearing Replacement..
They should easily last the life of the bike. What kills steering stem bearings is under greasing at the factory, then water getting in there. But even if they are a little rusty, you can clean them up and scotchbrite the races. Repack with grease and they'll be fine for life of bike. They can be a little nasty and still rotate smooth. Now they can get 'brinelled' by being way over tighened, where the rollers put little line dimples in the races. Can't fix that.
It's easiest to remove forks and headlight, then the top triple clamp, then drop the assembly out. Or if you're just cleaning and repacking, you can leave the forks on and lower the lower clamp and forks to access the lower bearing.
It's a good idea to mark the nut position so you know where stock was. You want the bearing nut and triple-clamp nut to play off each other such that the bearing have zero play and no slop. Slop is when you roll the bike forward and tap the front brake and with left nad can feel slop between top triple camp and frame steering stem housing.
It's easiest to remove forks and headlight, then the top triple clamp, then drop the assembly out. Or if you're just cleaning and repacking, you can leave the forks on and lower the lower clamp and forks to access the lower bearing.
It's a good idea to mark the nut position so you know where stock was. You want the bearing nut and triple-clamp nut to play off each other such that the bearing have zero play and no slop. Slop is when you roll the bike forward and tap the front brake and with left nad can feel slop between top triple camp and frame steering stem housing.
Last edited by Einfahrt; Nov 4, 2008 at 02:07 PM.
They should easily last the life of the bike. What kills steering stem bearings is under greasing at the factory, then water getting in there. But even if they are a little rusty, you can clean them up and scotchbrite the races. Repack with grease and they'll be fine for life of bike. They can be a little nasty and still rotate smooth. Now they can get 'brinelled' by being way over tighened, where the rollers put little line dimples in the races. Can't fix that.
It's easiest to remove forks and headlight, then the top triple clamp, then drop the assembly out. Or if you're just cleaning and repacking, you can leave the forks on and lower the lower clamp and forks to access the lower bearing.
It's a good idea to mark the nut position so you know where stock was. You want the bearing nut and triple-clamp nut to play off each other such that the bearing have zero play and no slop. Slop is when you roll the bike forward and tap the front brake and with left nad can feel slop between top triple camp and frame steering stem housing.
It's easiest to remove forks and headlight, then the top triple clamp, then drop the assembly out. Or if you're just cleaning and repacking, you can leave the forks on and lower the lower clamp and forks to access the lower bearing.
It's a good idea to mark the nut position so you know where stock was. You want the bearing nut and triple-clamp nut to play off each other such that the bearing have zero play and no slop. Slop is when you roll the bike forward and tap the front brake and with left nad can feel slop between top triple camp and frame steering stem housing.
What do you mean mark the nut position?
And for your information I have been doing my own thing.. And I'v learned like that..
Basically you have to get a race removal tool and tap out the races top and bottom. Then you press in the new races, you can do this with a long bolt and some washers, basically the wasers are larger than the race, and you tighten the bolt from one end as it pull the race in from the other, a cheap press if you will. It is not hard to do at all. A shop manual will help a lot.
And a little thanks for bothering to help you would be appreciated, instead of getting snippy on me when I suggest, after I gave you detailed advice, to get your hands dirty and learn by doing.
I don't have the time to spoon feed you in detail 38 years of technical motorcycling, and I've got the integrity to not endorse pulling bearings and replace them when the 98% chance is you don't need to. You didn't listen to me and you're still assuming you have to replace them, so what more can I say?
I don't have the time to spoon feed you in detail 38 years of technical motorcycling, and I've got the integrity to not endorse pulling bearings and replace them when the 98% chance is you don't need to. You didn't listen to me and you're still assuming you have to replace them, so what more can I say?
My thought is that if you prefer not to answer someone's questions then simply Don't. More times than not another member will come along and pick up the slack.
Repacking/replacing steering head bearings is definitely not rocket science, even for me and I only have 25 years experience, just long enough to know a few things but evidently not so old that I've become grumpy.
Repacking/replacing steering head bearings is definitely not rocket science, even for me and I only have 25 years experience, just long enough to know a few things but evidently not so old that I've become grumpy.
My thought is that if you prefer not to answer someone's questions then simply Don't. More times than not another member will come along and pick up the slack.
Repacking/replacing steering head bearings is definitely not rocket science, even for me and I only have 25 years experience, just long enough to know a few things but evidently not so old that I've become grumpy.
Repacking/replacing steering head bearings is definitely not rocket science, even for me and I only have 25 years experience, just long enough to know a few things but evidently not so old that I've become grumpy.
Ok.. I still didnt find time to get into it.. So.. I will post how it goes

Thanks dude.
And Einfahrt, Im sorry.. I didnt mean it like that.. And thanks for that good explanation on your first post..


