squishy front brake lever?

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  #21  
Old 07-02-2012, 06:58 PM
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Certainly possible. I will check that out.
 
  #22  
Old 07-05-2012, 05:51 AM
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I checked out the lower end Mityvac bleeders on Amazon and they have pretty mixed reviews. It may be less grief to get a nicer one.

I am looking at this one
Amazon Amazon

Any others to consider?
 

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  #23  
Old 07-05-2012, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by stephenmarklay
I checked out the lower end Mityvac bleeders on Amazon and they have pretty mixed reviews. It may be less grief to get a nicer one.

I am looking at this one
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-6830-B...=brake+bleeder

Any others to consider?
I would never try to talk anyone out of buying a higher quality tool if the money is not a problem. I didn't read any of the Amazon reviews on the more standard MityVac units, but I'd bet money on a lack of knowledge on brake bleeding more than the tool itself. It's a simple tool for a relatively simple task. Still, as long as the money isn't an issue, that high end unit will obviously get the job done. It's kind of like me having a shop full of Snap-On tools instead of the vast mix-and-match stuff I have that will get any job done with just about equal results. Tools are cool. If you get it, take a few pics of using it on your brakes.
 
  #24  
Old 07-05-2012, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by stephenmarklay
I checked out the lower end Mityvac bleeders on Amazon and they have pretty mixed reviews. It may be less grief to get a nicer one.

I am looking at this one
Amazon.com: Mityvac 6830 Brake Bleeder: Automotive

Any others to consider?
I bought the low buck $25 on-sale Harbor Freight version and once I got a clue to not try to vacuum the thing inside out it worked great.

I found all I had to do was draw a low vacuum, crack the bleeder and keep up the low vacuum a bit then close the bleeder. The first time I used it on the front dual disc set up of the Zephyr it seems as if I was sucking air somewhere when pumping the snot out of it... could have been at the threads of the bleeder or the vacuum line, heck maybe even at the seal on the master cylinder since it really is made mainly as a one way seal, I don't know. I just know I was getting too much air bubbles for what it should have been and that stopped once I cut back to a sensible lower vacuum level. The brakes work great.

When I did the rear brake I did the low vacuum from the outset and it took a minute or two to do the job virtually perfect.

It is about how one uses the tool.

I just read one that sounded trick, pushing fluid using a squirt bottle through the bleeder back up to the reservoir. As long as it gets the air out of the top banjo it's a good deal. Dump the mustard and bleed the brakes.
 
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Old 07-05-2012, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by klx678
I bought the low buck $25 on-sale Harbor Freight version and once I got a clue to not try to vacuum the thing inside out it worked great.

I found all I had to do was draw a low vacuum, crack the bleeder and keep up the low vacuum a bit then close the bleeder. The first time I used it on the front dual disc set up of the Zephyr it seems as if I was sucking air somewhere when pumping the snot out of it... could have been at the threads of the bleeder or the vacuum line, heck maybe even at the seal on the master cylinder since it really is made mainly as a one way seal, I don't know. I just know I was getting too much air bubbles for what it should have been and that stopped once I cut back to a sensible lower vacuum level. The brakes work great.

When I did the rear brake I did the low vacuum from the outset and it took a minute or two to do the job virtually perfect.

It is about how one uses the tool.

I just read one that sounded trick, pushing fluid using a squirt bottle through the bleeder back up to the reservoir. As long as it gets the air out of the top banjo it's a good deal. Dump the mustard and bleed the brakes.
Mark, that reverse method you mention is basically what most all MTB highend hydraulic disc brakes use. However, they usually have a bleed port at the top master cylinder, so you can squeeze the snot out of the squeeze bottle without fear of splashing fluid. The top cap stays in place. Highend MTB hydros are nothing but miniature motorcycle brakes by design.

On your comments about the excessive vacuum you can induce with a vacuum brake bleeder, you're absolutely right. Many of these units can suck your eyeballs out, so the user really needs to modulate how much they pump down on the handle. It takes so little vacuum to pull the fluid, and that's why the squeeze bottle method will push fluid just about as effectively.
 
  #26  
Old 07-05-2012, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by stephenmarklay
If you already have a compressor that's the one to get. Can be be used to clean up all sorts of liquids, if it can handle brake fluid it can handle most anything. It's easier too since one hand isn't occupied operating a vacuum pump.
If all you were maintaining was one MC it would be overkill but if you've got a small "fleet", get it!
That's the one I have. The hand vacuum pump is better suited to testing vacuum motors etc.
 
  #27  
Old 07-05-2012, 04:31 PM
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Thanks everyone! I have two bikes, my wife's car to do and my vw camper so a real nicer bleeder may pay off. I do have a compressor already.

Can you adjust the vacuum on these units as not to get air past the seals?

My wife gave me the blessing on one so I guess I am good .
 
  #28  
Old 07-05-2012, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by stephenmarklay
Can you adjust the vacuum on these units as not to get air past the seals?
Not quite sure what you mean.

That bleeder does have a "throttle" as to much compressed air you're using to create a vacuum in the tank.

Off topic: What vintage is your VW?
 
  #29  
Old 07-05-2012, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ol'klx-er
Not quite sure what you mean.

That bleeder does have a "throttle" as to much compressed air you're using to create a vacuum in the tank.

Off topic: What vintage is your VW?
Yep that was what I meant...

I have an 85 Westfalia. I currently have it half apart I have owned it for about 12 years. Cool machine.
 
  #30  
Old 07-06-2012, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TNC
Mark, that reverse method you mention is basically what most all MTB highend hydraulic disc brakes use. However, they usually have a bleed port at the top master cylinder, so you can squeeze the snot out of the squeeze bottle without fear of splashing fluid. The top cap stays in place. Highend MTB hydros are nothing but miniature motorcycle brakes by design.
I wouldn't know... all I have is my low line Haro... I have to suffer with a cable operated disc.


I wondered how they did that stuff with everything looking so "sealed up". I'll have to look closer when I get the chance to look at either the bikes at the shop downtown or my friend's tricked out MTB.

By the way, I do really enjoy the full suspended deal and find the shifters to be so incredibly better than the old stuff from back in the 70s/80s that I had. I've been riding it more than motorcycles or cars this summer. Any time I have to go to the post office (quite frequently these days) I jump on the bike and pedal (clipless pedals and MTB shoes, sweet). I can do the couple miles down and back in like 1/2 hour with brisk pedalling - I'm a spinner. Just a great time riding. I just need to get back on the bikes more.

I rode for the first time in about two weeks today, for a good purpose. To have a home inspection for a house on which our offer was accepted. It has an honest to goodness 22x22 attached garage that will allow me to consolidate my motorcycles in one place. Needs insulated and - something you guys seldom need - heat and I'll be good to go. Now for the stereo, flat screen, and fridge...
 


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