Here's an update on my project to squirrely steering on the `06-`07 KLX250S. Recall earlier I had fit 2" lowering links from:

http://burkhartcycle.com/store/index...products_id=96

...To change bike attitude to slow the steering. A major dual sport ride proved a big improvement, but the rear end sat too low with the too-soft stock shock spring, even after the preload was cranked way up. I decided to lower the rear a little less, and fit a much stiffer shock spring.

Here are my simple and inexpensive fixes to correct the steering.

- Front forks slid down in triple clamps so cap is flush with top of top triple clamp

- 1-1/2" lowering links from the above source

- A stiffer shock spring, ~425 pounds per inch versus the wimpy stock spring of ~300

I used a spring I had laying around, from Cogent Dynamics, from my Cogent Dynamics Moab shock for my `08 KLR650.

http://www.motocd.com/

The spring is a tad small at top and the preload nut flange won't slide inside the spring, so I simply flipped the preload nut over and ran a band of electrical tape around the shock body to keep the spring centered.

 

Sounds thrifty and effective. I guess the ideal, but more expensive way would be to use an internal spacer inside the shock along with that stiffer spring, but what you've done is more cost effective and less time consuming.

 

Yes, you can spacer the shock, but you're stealing from your shock travel same way as reducing preload to lower rear ride height. By using the links, which are very cheap, you retain your full shock travel while calming the front end. I tried the 2" links, but had the rear tire kissing the fender well toward the bottom front. The 1-1/2" links are the way to go.

The bike is so awesome now! I can plunge into a sandy corner and not have the front end want to over steer and wash out. Very easy to hold an accurate line through nasty piles of rocks and keep right up with the KTM worshipers.

The stiffer shock spring is very important to the fix. There are exact-fit springs available related to Larry Roessler's successful competition on this machine, but I don't have the source. Shadetree does, I'll send him this link and have him forward it.

Worth mention is the significant discovery that the forks are stiff enough, and that when you fit the much stiffer rear spring and jump off a ledge and land flat, both ends bottom at the same time. That is, with all damping setting at full minimum, which is what I prefer.

 

Quick questions: I noticed that My KLX is Squirrely as well especially in shallow sand(about 1 inch.) I have to slow way down for fear of losing it. Same with shallow mud. I literally have to use both feet to keep it upright.
> Is my problem just the Bike or should I be leaning back more or should I try some other adjustments to my riding style. I have no problem as long as I have good traction.

 

Yes to both. The KLX handling is on the squirrely side, which is why I'm strongly recommending the mods, and yes, in loose sand you do need to ride with your weight back and don't go all `fraidy on the throttle. When you sit forward and shut off, the rake lessens, making the problem worse. Basically, any time you approach the loose stuff you're better off throwing or holding your weight a bit back and don't shut off on the throttle. Another helpful tip is to let the bike go where it wants to (to a modest extent) in loose stuff. If you fight it you'll start over correcting.

 

And STAND! Get a little momentum going in that slow mud or sand or whatever. The bike is going to go where it wants regardless, if you're sitting the bike is going to take control of you, if you're standing the bike flops left and right, up and down, but your body stays afloat and you can correct the bikes movements muuuuch easier and take control of the bike when your body isn't floping around with the bike like when sitting.

 

Why would you lower the back end then raise the front end? Isnt that what sliding the forks down is essientially doing?

 

He's looking for the combined effect. It's pretty much additive. I'm getting the feeling he likes something that leans toward a trials suspension.

Hey Einfart, do you notice any slowdown in the 'flickability' factor?

 

An even quicker and easier way to get better handling is to slightly loosen the spring a litttle less than race sag. Like say 11 -12 cm of sag or so instead of 10. Then tighten up the front fork compression. And get some handlebar raisers to heighten them, then push them forward a bit. Get slightly wider bars. Get more off road style tires, and run lower pressure in them. Like 14-16 lbs.
________
Handjob Tubes

 

First off the stock klx can take sugar sand no problem....yes raising the bars, stiffening the front forks and making the rear a little softer helps big time, BUT only so much....riding the soft stuff just takes practice, practice, practice ....and then some more practice. I'm no mx'er.. just an average klx owner I bet.

I learned to ride the klx after almost 20 years of not riding offroad in my local sand pit which is next to my warehouse where I keep my skiff and phishing stuff. After taking a client on a weekend day trips, I would hear smokers buzzing around over there while I was cleaning up and such.

So I searched the net, found the klx and bought one.

Ohhh boy those first few riding trips in the pit were disappointing with a lot of sand in my helmet......but I was persistent and learned to ride the stock klx in sugar sand.

2.5 years ago...the virgin klx taking a peek at the pit.



This is soft sand.



and I mean soft.



After learning to ride the stock klx in that sheet...NOTHING looks impassable now. With mods like JasonFMX said the bike performs much better...not like a ktm smoker mind you, but waaaay better. Only difference is I put raising links on the rear.

PS Leaning back is key and stay on the throttle.....if it gets squirelly give it more gas...trust me.