Show us your tool kit and innovative ideas
Senior Member
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 514
From: Eudora, KS
This will be a great thread for anyone gettin a tool kit together, including me. So far I just have the stock tool kit and then i bought from our Mac tool dealer a 1/4" drive metric socket set with small break over bar and ratchet tool kit and a tool kit that has bits and a bit driver. Both are made by Expert sold by Mac, Snap On, Matco, and I believe Cornwell. Came in really nice small cases. Do you buy roll out tool holders with tools already in them or do you put your own tool in them??
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 165
From: Northern NJ
I have 8,10,12 mm sockets, a 4" extension and a small ratcheting handle. I have screwdriver bits that will fit in the extension. I have a 2-10 (or so) mm fold up allen set, and a small pair of needle nose vicegrips. Pretty minimal, I know. I'd like to add some big zip ties, a few feet of baling wire, and a few feet of some strong flexible tape...
The issue with tool kits is that you can keep adding and adding and adding and pretty soon youve got 10 pounds of **** hanging off your bike. which is already heavy as it is. If I was going on a multi day trek, I'd stock up though. Best prevention is maintenance, so before you go on a ride give a quick once over on: fluids, tightness of bolts, and tire pressure.
Keep that cellphone handy.
~Steve
The issue with tool kits is that you can keep adding and adding and adding and pretty soon youve got 10 pounds of **** hanging off your bike. which is already heavy as it is. If I was going on a multi day trek, I'd stock up though. Best prevention is maintenance, so before you go on a ride give a quick once over on: fluids, tightness of bolts, and tire pressure.
Keep that cellphone handy.
~Steve
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Ok this is the post I meant to start this thread with, just had to get the photo's. The reason for this post is to discuss tool kits specific to the KLX250, and one reason I would never buy a generic tool kit. Heres what I have found in my limited but rather obsessive experience.
In the last few weeks I have culled all that crap I was carrying and have managed to get that tool roll below 2kg (4.5lbs).
Ok in terms of carry tools usually they are for crash repair, tyre repair or an electrical issue. I don't carry much electrical stuff because I don't know much about electrics, apart from repairing rubbed wires, fuses and bypassing faulty switches.
Axles
Ok so basically we need something that can do a 27/22 rear and 19/17mm front. Although you could get away with just a 27 and 19, I really think you need both sides of the axle. A few options;
- Use a breaker bar (3/8 drive) with a 19 and 27mm sockets, with a adjustable wrench (wide mouth shifter) to hold the other end. This also covers front sprocket (27mm) and suspension bolts (19mm). Heavy but (I have been using this method with a 1/2" breaker for the last year
)
- A short wide mouth adjustable wrench with a pair of lockable pliers to hold the other end. This solution will damage the axle bolts over time. Just make sure you have enough leverage on that wrench (try at home!)
- Get 4 sockets (17,19,22,27mm) cut them with drop saw to separate socket end and driver side. Throw driver side in the bin and weld 17/22mm combo to the end of one tyre iron and weld the 19/27mm combo to the other.
- OEM rear axle spanners are actually OK.
Sockets in this size are heavy so I am going to avoid this in the future. Motion pro make some great tyre spoons with axle combos on the other ends.
Open end spanners
Only ones I find needed are 12mm for adjusting chain slack bolts and 10mm for cable adjustment. Rear mirrors actually need a 14mm if you have them on. OEM spark plug socket needs a 17mm. Those 10/12, 14/17 in the original kit are ok if you back them up with good sockets and box ends.
Box end spanners
Well I think (excluding axles) a 8,10,12 and 14mm would pretty much have you covered. The horn mount bolt is the only thing I can find in 11mm, and I have nothing for 9 or 13mm from memory on stock bike.
I just brought a set of 4in1 reversible ratcheting spaners in 8/9/10/11 and 12/13/14/15. I won't carry the larger 16/17/18/19mm. I also have adaptors that fit in these so you use the 10mm as a 1/4" reversable ratchet driver. These make work on the track quick and effortless.
As a minimal kit for the klx I think you need a 8/10, 12/14 combination spanners.
Tires.
-First up don't forget the rim-lock nut. I need a 13mm, you may be different.
-Spokes need a special tool.
-Tyre irons your choice. I find the ones Westoz have a bit heavy (really good to use though). I use the Ballards, although IMHO those spanner cutouts are useless for undoing any bolts. Similar to TNC I have bolted mine to the rear subframe, thru the bolt that previously held the helmut lock.
- I have a valve multi tool that removes valve and rethreads valve stem (internal and external threads). I use to screw onto valve and hold valve stem in place rather than have it disappear back into rim. Never used one of those cable valve pullers.
- WD40 helps with the lube part (also carry this small can for water in the HT leads, undoing painful bolts etc)
- I use CO2, as opposed to a pump. The front needs one and the back two in order to ride home. My reason is that in my experience changing a tyre in the bush is an exhausting experience. Heat, cold, rain, flies and mates that want to get riding. So the last thing I feel like doing at the end is pumping the tyre by hand! Personal choice.
- Tyre gauge I use a large bulky dial type. Pencil type (although not as accurate) would make more sense.
- I have a HD 21" tube covered in powder, vacuum packed and carried in the rear pouch of my jacket. I have given up on standard tubes for a spare. In my experience too easy to pinch when putting in or fail due to the same reason that your extra HD just did. I figure if you are only carrying one spare to get you out of trouble make it a good one, and i am happy to carry that bit extra in weight and bulk.
- Tyre repair kit. I hate those glues but (go hard). I carry Kwik Grip, but you have to wait 15mins before bonding surfaces. i was able to weld a torn valve stem with this stuff recently and it held for 80km.
Spark plug sockest
I carry a spare plug (kept from the last service). I use the OEM spark plug socket. Heavy but practical and fits well. Only really would use it for a de-drowning. Motion Pro make a nice one, but $$. Plug socket needs to be 16mm. BTW on a recent ride a mate used one of these with two hose clamps to replace a torn section of coolant hose
Very cool trick i though.
Pointy nose vice grips.
For me its in there to hold the smaller side of the wheel axle nuts. Spare gear, clutch or brake lever. westoz I like the look of those rubber handles These are great for bending bits straight after a crash
1/4" drive and sockets
The most used part of any kit. I think 1/4 drive is all you need on the KLX, excluding axles and swing-arm bolts, because 3/8th drive sockets are too big in diamter for many of the bolts around the engine casing. You need 8,10,12 and 14mm. I also carry 1/4" socket as a bit driver.
I use a small sliding t-bar, long extension, short extension and universal joint. The uni joint is really only so I can use the long extension as a secondary long driver if needed (shaft wrapped in duct tape to save space and help use).
Allen keys
I think stock the KLX only needs a 8mm for the rear sprocket, and a 6mm for the brake pins?. However, every single piece of aftermarket goodie I buy seems to have an allen key (barkbusters, bashplate, bar risers, pipe etc) and these are the things I tend to bend in crashes, hence I use these allen keys alot! Also buy good quality ones as the aftermarket stuff tend to be lightweight aluminum or alloy and round out easily. I carry the bits with a 1/4 inch bit driver in 3,4,5,6,7,8,mm. this is used with my t-bar to double as a screwdriver.
Leatherman
I have a Wave. Knife, file, wire stripper, screwdriver and mostly pliers.
Iphone
Managed to find a shock proof and waterproof cover. So now I have back-up maps and the service manual downloaded. Coverage is non-existent were I ride. Going to set-up a 12volt charger in the future.
Other things I am carrying
- 5m of 1" wide webbing. Tow rope.
- 2 foot of wire
- Spare pins for axle ect.
- Extra bolts and washers, nuts etc
- Permanent marker (to pen my last words).
- Light stick, lighter, flint for a night out.
- Lip balm/sunscrean, earplugs and $20 for the comfort factor.
- Zipties, cant have enough. I keep them under the bar pad.
- Stainless hose clamps, carried on the coolant hoses near the engine.
I have found the Kriega tool rolls excellent, and one of the best companies I have dealt with online. It's held up well for 12 months. I put this in the Kreiga US5 on the tail and it's waterproof so my tools with never look like the powdered oxide they turned to rattling in the OEM tool pouch. If they added another zip up section to other end I think they will be perfect.
Great Kit Westoz. Just some points though. Why the deep sockets? More weight and I can't see on the bike where you would need them. Also why open and box wrenches? Only really need an open end for 10mm (cable adjustment) and 12mm (chain adjustment). You could use your shifter for the 14mm mirrors and 17mm plug socket.
revtor I agree with you on the weight issue and it's the reason I started this thread. I had accumulated a huge kit and in the end there were so many holes in it and redundant tools. So I have spent the last month really trimming that kit and discovering the minimal gear you really need for this bike to take off every bolt on the thing. Also agree on the maintenance part, as well as thread and nuts in good condition. Then you don't need a 5' breaker bar to remove an axle.
BleednGreen I think all of those pre-assembled tool kits half of the tools would be useless. Spend an hour in a good tool shop and you would have a cheaper kit custom built for your bike.
In the last few weeks I have culled all that crap I was carrying and have managed to get that tool roll below 2kg (4.5lbs).
Ok in terms of carry tools usually they are for crash repair, tyre repair or an electrical issue. I don't carry much electrical stuff because I don't know much about electrics, apart from repairing rubbed wires, fuses and bypassing faulty switches.
Axles
Ok so basically we need something that can do a 27/22 rear and 19/17mm front. Although you could get away with just a 27 and 19, I really think you need both sides of the axle. A few options;
- Use a breaker bar (3/8 drive) with a 19 and 27mm sockets, with a adjustable wrench (wide mouth shifter) to hold the other end. This also covers front sprocket (27mm) and suspension bolts (19mm). Heavy but (I have been using this method with a 1/2" breaker for the last year
)- A short wide mouth adjustable wrench with a pair of lockable pliers to hold the other end. This solution will damage the axle bolts over time. Just make sure you have enough leverage on that wrench (try at home!)
- Get 4 sockets (17,19,22,27mm) cut them with drop saw to separate socket end and driver side. Throw driver side in the bin and weld 17/22mm combo to the end of one tyre iron and weld the 19/27mm combo to the other.
- OEM rear axle spanners are actually OK.
Sockets in this size are heavy so I am going to avoid this in the future. Motion pro make some great tyre spoons with axle combos on the other ends.
Open end spanners
Only ones I find needed are 12mm for adjusting chain slack bolts and 10mm for cable adjustment. Rear mirrors actually need a 14mm if you have them on. OEM spark plug socket needs a 17mm. Those 10/12, 14/17 in the original kit are ok if you back them up with good sockets and box ends.
Box end spanners
Well I think (excluding axles) a 8,10,12 and 14mm would pretty much have you covered. The horn mount bolt is the only thing I can find in 11mm, and I have nothing for 9 or 13mm from memory on stock bike.
I just brought a set of 4in1 reversible ratcheting spaners in 8/9/10/11 and 12/13/14/15. I won't carry the larger 16/17/18/19mm. I also have adaptors that fit in these so you use the 10mm as a 1/4" reversable ratchet driver. These make work on the track quick and effortless.
As a minimal kit for the klx I think you need a 8/10, 12/14 combination spanners.
Tires.
-First up don't forget the rim-lock nut. I need a 13mm, you may be different.
-Spokes need a special tool.
-Tyre irons your choice. I find the ones Westoz have a bit heavy (really good to use though). I use the Ballards, although IMHO those spanner cutouts are useless for undoing any bolts. Similar to TNC I have bolted mine to the rear subframe, thru the bolt that previously held the helmut lock.
- I have a valve multi tool that removes valve and rethreads valve stem (internal and external threads). I use to screw onto valve and hold valve stem in place rather than have it disappear back into rim. Never used one of those cable valve pullers.
- WD40 helps with the lube part (also carry this small can for water in the HT leads, undoing painful bolts etc)
- I use CO2, as opposed to a pump. The front needs one and the back two in order to ride home. My reason is that in my experience changing a tyre in the bush is an exhausting experience. Heat, cold, rain, flies and mates that want to get riding. So the last thing I feel like doing at the end is pumping the tyre by hand! Personal choice.
- Tyre gauge I use a large bulky dial type. Pencil type (although not as accurate) would make more sense.
- I have a HD 21" tube covered in powder, vacuum packed and carried in the rear pouch of my jacket. I have given up on standard tubes for a spare. In my experience too easy to pinch when putting in or fail due to the same reason that your extra HD just did. I figure if you are only carrying one spare to get you out of trouble make it a good one, and i am happy to carry that bit extra in weight and bulk.
- Tyre repair kit. I hate those glues but (go hard). I carry Kwik Grip, but you have to wait 15mins before bonding surfaces. i was able to weld a torn valve stem with this stuff recently and it held for 80km.
Spark plug sockest
I carry a spare plug (kept from the last service). I use the OEM spark plug socket. Heavy but practical and fits well. Only really would use it for a de-drowning. Motion Pro make a nice one, but $$. Plug socket needs to be 16mm. BTW on a recent ride a mate used one of these with two hose clamps to replace a torn section of coolant hose
Very cool trick i though.Pointy nose vice grips.
For me its in there to hold the smaller side of the wheel axle nuts. Spare gear, clutch or brake lever. westoz I like the look of those rubber handles
These are great for bending bits straight after a crash1/4" drive and sockets
The most used part of any kit. I think 1/4 drive is all you need on the KLX, excluding axles and swing-arm bolts, because 3/8th drive sockets are too big in diamter for many of the bolts around the engine casing. You need 8,10,12 and 14mm. I also carry 1/4" socket as a bit driver.
I use a small sliding t-bar, long extension, short extension and universal joint. The uni joint is really only so I can use the long extension as a secondary long driver if needed (shaft wrapped in duct tape to save space and help use).
Allen keys
I think stock the KLX only needs a 8mm for the rear sprocket, and a 6mm for the brake pins?. However, every single piece of aftermarket goodie I buy seems to have an allen key (barkbusters, bashplate, bar risers, pipe etc) and these are the things I tend to bend in crashes, hence I use these allen keys alot! Also buy good quality ones as the aftermarket stuff tend to be lightweight aluminum or alloy and round out easily. I carry the bits with a 1/4 inch bit driver in 3,4,5,6,7,8,mm. this is used with my t-bar to double as a screwdriver.
Leatherman
I have a Wave. Knife, file, wire stripper, screwdriver and mostly pliers.
Iphone
Managed to find a shock proof and waterproof cover. So now I have back-up maps and the service manual downloaded. Coverage is non-existent were I ride. Going to set-up a 12volt charger in the future.
Other things I am carrying
- 5m of 1" wide webbing. Tow rope.
- 2 foot of wire
- Spare pins for axle ect.
- Extra bolts and washers, nuts etc
- Permanent marker (to pen my last words).
- Light stick, lighter, flint for a night out.
- Lip balm/sunscrean, earplugs and $20 for the comfort factor.
- Zipties, cant have enough. I keep them under the bar pad.
- Stainless hose clamps, carried on the coolant hoses near the engine.
I have found the Kriega tool rolls excellent, and one of the best companies I have dealt with online. It's held up well for 12 months. I put this in the Kreiga US5 on the tail and it's waterproof so my tools with never look like the powdered oxide they turned to rattling in the OEM tool pouch. If they added another zip up section to other end I think they will be perfect.
Great Kit Westoz. Just some points though. Why the deep sockets? More weight and I can't see on the bike where you would need them. Also why open and box wrenches? Only really need an open end for 10mm (cable adjustment) and 12mm (chain adjustment). You could use your shifter for the 14mm mirrors and 17mm plug socket.
revtor I agree with you on the weight issue and it's the reason I started this thread. I had accumulated a huge kit and in the end there were so many holes in it and redundant tools. So I have spent the last month really trimming that kit and discovering the minimal gear you really need for this bike to take off every bolt on the thing. Also agree on the maintenance part, as well as thread and nuts in good condition. Then you don't need a 5' breaker bar to remove an axle.
BleednGreen I think all of those pre-assembled tool kits half of the tools would be useless. Spend an hour in a good tool shop and you would have a cheaper kit custom built for your bike.
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 165
From: Northern NJ
Nice writeup Nornalup.. Not just alot of tools, but a well thought out selection!!
I dont carry any tire stuff. Which I know will come back to bite me in the future. But even in my garage I couldn't change my tires. So how the hell could I do it out in the bush? I need a lesson I guess.
~Steve
I dont carry any tire stuff. Which I know will come back to bite me in the future. But even in my garage I couldn't change my tires. So how the hell could I do it out in the bush? I need a lesson I guess.
~Steve
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 396
From: Redding CA
Ok this is the post I meant to start this thread with, just had to get the photo's. The reason for this post is to discuss tool kits specific to the KLX250, and one reason I would never buy a generic tool kit. Heres what I have found in my limited but rather obsessive experience.
In the last few weeks I have culled all that crap I was carrying and have managed to get that tool roll below 2kg (4.5lbs).
Ok in terms of carry tools usually they are for crash repair, tyre repair or an electrical issue. I don't carry much electrical stuff because I don't know much about electrics, apart from repairing rubbed wires, fuses and bypassing faulty switches.
Axles
Ok so basically we need something that can do a 27/22 rear and 19/17mm front. Although you could get away with just a 27 and 19, I really think you need both sides of the axle. A few options;
- Use a breaker bar (3/8 drive) with a 19 and 27mm sockets, with a adjustable wrench (wide mouth shifter) to hold the other end. This also covers front sprocket (27mm) and suspension bolts (19mm). Heavy but (I have been using this method with a 1/2" breaker for the last year)
- A short wide mouth adjustable wrench with a pair of lockable pliers to hold the other end. This solution will damage the axle bolts over time. Just make sure you have enough leverage on that wrench (try at home!)
- Get 4 sockets (17,19,22,27mm) cut them with drop saw to separate socket end and driver side. Throw driver side in the bin and weld 17/22mm combo to the end of one tyre iron and weld the 19/27mm combo to the other.
- OEM rear axle spanners are actually OK.
Sockets in this size are heavy so I am going to avoid this in the future. Motion pro make some great tyre spoons with axle combos on the other ends.
Open end spanners
Only ones I find needed are 12mm for adjusting chain slack bolts and 10mm for cable adjustment. Rear mirrors actually need a 14mm if you have them on. OEM spark plug socket needs a 17mm. Those 10/12, 14/17 in the original kit are ok if you back them up with good sockets and box ends.
Box end spanners
Well I think (excluding axles) a 8,10,12 and 14mm would pretty much have you covered. The horn mount bolt is the only thing I can find in 11mm, and I have nothing for 9 or 13mm from memory on stock bike.
I just brought a set of 4in1 reversible ratcheting spaners in 8/9/10/11 and 12/13/14/15. I won't carry the larger 16/17/18/19mm. I also have adaptors that fit in these so you use the 10mm as a 1/4" reversable ratchet driver. These make work on the track quick and effortless.
As a minimal kit for the klx I think you need a 8/10, 12/14 combination spanners.
Tires.
-First up don't forget the rim-lock nut. I need a 13mm, you may be different.
-Spokes need a special tool.
-Tyre irons your choice. I find the ones Westoz have a bit heavy (really good to use though). I use the Ballards, although IMHO those spanner cutouts are useless for undoing any bolts. Similar to TNC I have bolted mine to the rear subframe, thru the bolt that previously held the helmut lock.
- I have a valve multi tool that removes valve and rethreads valve stem (internal and external threads). I use to screw onto valve and hold valve stem in place rather than have it disappear back into rim. Never used one of those cable valve pullers.
- WD40 helps with the lube part (also carry this small can for water in the HT leads, undoing painful bolts etc)
- I use CO2, as opposed to a pump. The front needs one and the back two in order to ride home. My reason is that in my experience changing a tyre in the bush is an exhausting experience. Heat, cold, rain, flies and mates that want to get riding. So the last thing I feel like doing at the end is pumping the tyre by hand! Personal choice.
- Tyre gauge I use a large bulky dial type. Pencil type (although not as accurate) would make more sense.
- I have a HD 21" tube covered in powder, vacuum packed and carried in the rear pouch of my jacket. I have given up on standard tubes for a spare. In my experience too easy to pinch when putting in or fail due to the same reason that your extra HD just did. I figure if you are only carrying one spare to get you out of trouble make it a good one, and i am happy to carry that bit extra in weight and bulk.
- Tyre repair kit. I hate those glues but (go hard). I carry Kwik Grip, but you have to wait 15mins before bonding surfaces. i was able to weld a torn valve stem with this stuff recently and it held for 80km.
Spark plug sockest
I carry a spare plug (kept from the last service). I use the OEM spark plug socket. Heavy but practical and fits well. Only really would use it for a de-drowning. Motion Pro make a nice one, but $$. Plug socket needs to be 16mm. BTW on a recent ride a mate used one of these with two hose clamps to replace a torn section of coolant hoseVery cool trick i though.
Pointy nose vice grips.
For me its in there to hold the smaller side of the wheel axle nuts. Spare gear, clutch or brake lever. westoz I like the look of those rubber handles These are great for bending bits straight after a crash
1/4" drive and sockets
The most used part of any kit. I think 1/4 drive is all you need on the KLX, excluding axles and swing-arm bolts, because 3/8th drive sockets are too big in diamter for many of the bolts around the engine casing. You need 8,10,12 and 14mm. I also carry 1/4" socket as a bit driver.
I use a small sliding t-bar, long extension, short extension and universal joint. The uni joint is really only so I can use the long extension as a secondary long driver if needed (shaft wrapped in duct tape to save space and help use).
Allen keys
I think stock the KLX only needs a 8mm for the rear sprocket, and a 6mm for the brake pins?. However, every single piece of aftermarket goodie I buy seems to have an allen key (barkbusters, bashplate, bar risers, pipe etc) and these are the things I tend to bend in crashes, hence I use these allen keys alot! Also buy good quality ones as the aftermarket stuff tend to be lightweight aluminum or alloy and round out easily. I carry the bits with a 1/4 inch bit driver in 3,4,5,6,7,8,mm. this is used with my t-bar to double as a screwdriver.
Leatherman
I have a Wave. Knife, file, wire stripper, screwdriver and mostly pliers.
Iphone
Managed to find a shock proof and waterproof cover. So now I have back-up maps and the service manual downloaded. Coverage is non-existent were I ride. Going to set-up a 12volt charger in the future.
Other things I am carrying
- 5m of 1" wide webbing. Tow rope.
- 2 foot of wire
- Spare pins for axle ect.
- Extra bolts and washers, nuts etc
- Permanent marker (to pen my last words).
- Light stick, lighter, flint for a night out.
- Lip balm/sunscrean, earplugs and $20 for the comfort factor.
- Zipties, cant have enough. I keep them under the bar pad.
- Stainless hose clamps, carried on the coolant hoses near the engine.
I have found the Kriega tool rolls excellent, and one of the best companies I have dealt with online. It's held up well for 12 months. I put this in the Kreiga US5 on the tail and it's waterproof so my tools with never look like the powdered oxide they turned to rattling in the OEM tool pouch. If they added another zip up section to other end I think they will be perfect.
Great Kit Westoz. Just some points though. Why the deep sockets? More weight and I can't see on the bike where you would need them. Also why open and box wrenches? Only really need an open end for 10mm (cable adjustment) and 12mm (chain adjustment). You could use your shifter for the 14mm mirrors and 17mm plug socket.
revtor I agree with you on the weight issue and it's the reason I started this thread. I had accumulated a huge kit and in the end there were so many holes in it and redundant tools. So I have spent the last month really trimming that kit and discovering the minimal gear you really need for this bike to take off every bolt on the thing. Also agree on the maintenance part, as well as thread and nuts in good condition. Then you don't need a 5' breaker bar to remove an axle.
BleednGreen I think all of those pre-assembled tool kits half of the tools would be useless. Spend an hour in a good tool shop and you would have a cheaper kit custom built for your bike.
In the last few weeks I have culled all that crap I was carrying and have managed to get that tool roll below 2kg (4.5lbs).
Ok in terms of carry tools usually they are for crash repair, tyre repair or an electrical issue. I don't carry much electrical stuff because I don't know much about electrics, apart from repairing rubbed wires, fuses and bypassing faulty switches.
Axles
Ok so basically we need something that can do a 27/22 rear and 19/17mm front. Although you could get away with just a 27 and 19, I really think you need both sides of the axle. A few options;
- Use a breaker bar (3/8 drive) with a 19 and 27mm sockets, with a adjustable wrench (wide mouth shifter) to hold the other end. This also covers front sprocket (27mm) and suspension bolts (19mm). Heavy but (I have been using this method with a 1/2" breaker for the last year
)- A short wide mouth adjustable wrench with a pair of lockable pliers to hold the other end. This solution will damage the axle bolts over time. Just make sure you have enough leverage on that wrench (try at home!)
- Get 4 sockets (17,19,22,27mm) cut them with drop saw to separate socket end and driver side. Throw driver side in the bin and weld 17/22mm combo to the end of one tyre iron and weld the 19/27mm combo to the other.
- OEM rear axle spanners are actually OK.
Sockets in this size are heavy so I am going to avoid this in the future. Motion pro make some great tyre spoons with axle combos on the other ends.
Open end spanners
Only ones I find needed are 12mm for adjusting chain slack bolts and 10mm for cable adjustment. Rear mirrors actually need a 14mm if you have them on. OEM spark plug socket needs a 17mm. Those 10/12, 14/17 in the original kit are ok if you back them up with good sockets and box ends.
Box end spanners
Well I think (excluding axles) a 8,10,12 and 14mm would pretty much have you covered. The horn mount bolt is the only thing I can find in 11mm, and I have nothing for 9 or 13mm from memory on stock bike.
I just brought a set of 4in1 reversible ratcheting spaners in 8/9/10/11 and 12/13/14/15. I won't carry the larger 16/17/18/19mm. I also have adaptors that fit in these so you use the 10mm as a 1/4" reversable ratchet driver. These make work on the track quick and effortless.
As a minimal kit for the klx I think you need a 8/10, 12/14 combination spanners.
Tires.
-First up don't forget the rim-lock nut. I need a 13mm, you may be different.
-Spokes need a special tool.
-Tyre irons your choice. I find the ones Westoz have a bit heavy (really good to use though). I use the Ballards, although IMHO those spanner cutouts are useless for undoing any bolts. Similar to TNC I have bolted mine to the rear subframe, thru the bolt that previously held the helmut lock.
- I have a valve multi tool that removes valve and rethreads valve stem (internal and external threads). I use to screw onto valve and hold valve stem in place rather than have it disappear back into rim. Never used one of those cable valve pullers.
- WD40 helps with the lube part (also carry this small can for water in the HT leads, undoing painful bolts etc)
- I use CO2, as opposed to a pump. The front needs one and the back two in order to ride home. My reason is that in my experience changing a tyre in the bush is an exhausting experience. Heat, cold, rain, flies and mates that want to get riding. So the last thing I feel like doing at the end is pumping the tyre by hand! Personal choice.
- Tyre gauge I use a large bulky dial type. Pencil type (although not as accurate) would make more sense.
- I have a HD 21" tube covered in powder, vacuum packed and carried in the rear pouch of my jacket. I have given up on standard tubes for a spare. In my experience too easy to pinch when putting in or fail due to the same reason that your extra HD just did. I figure if you are only carrying one spare to get you out of trouble make it a good one, and i am happy to carry that bit extra in weight and bulk.
- Tyre repair kit. I hate those glues but (go hard). I carry Kwik Grip, but you have to wait 15mins before bonding surfaces. i was able to weld a torn valve stem with this stuff recently and it held for 80km.
Spark plug sockest
I carry a spare plug (kept from the last service). I use the OEM spark plug socket. Heavy but practical and fits well. Only really would use it for a de-drowning. Motion Pro make a nice one, but $$. Plug socket needs to be 16mm. BTW on a recent ride a mate used one of these with two hose clamps to replace a torn section of coolant hose
Very cool trick i though.Pointy nose vice grips.
For me its in there to hold the smaller side of the wheel axle nuts. Spare gear, clutch or brake lever. westoz I like the look of those rubber handles
These are great for bending bits straight after a crash1/4" drive and sockets
The most used part of any kit. I think 1/4 drive is all you need on the KLX, excluding axles and swing-arm bolts, because 3/8th drive sockets are too big in diamter for many of the bolts around the engine casing. You need 8,10,12 and 14mm. I also carry 1/4" socket as a bit driver.
I use a small sliding t-bar, long extension, short extension and universal joint. The uni joint is really only so I can use the long extension as a secondary long driver if needed (shaft wrapped in duct tape to save space and help use).
Allen keys
I think stock the KLX only needs a 8mm for the rear sprocket, and a 6mm for the brake pins?. However, every single piece of aftermarket goodie I buy seems to have an allen key (barkbusters, bashplate, bar risers, pipe etc) and these are the things I tend to bend in crashes, hence I use these allen keys alot! Also buy good quality ones as the aftermarket stuff tend to be lightweight aluminum or alloy and round out easily. I carry the bits with a 1/4 inch bit driver in 3,4,5,6,7,8,mm. this is used with my t-bar to double as a screwdriver.
Leatherman
I have a Wave. Knife, file, wire stripper, screwdriver and mostly pliers.
Iphone
Managed to find a shock proof and waterproof cover. So now I have back-up maps and the service manual downloaded. Coverage is non-existent were I ride. Going to set-up a 12volt charger in the future.
Other things I am carrying
- 5m of 1" wide webbing. Tow rope.
- 2 foot of wire
- Spare pins for axle ect.
- Extra bolts and washers, nuts etc
- Permanent marker (to pen my last words).
- Light stick, lighter, flint for a night out.
- Lip balm/sunscrean, earplugs and $20 for the comfort factor.
- Zipties, cant have enough. I keep them under the bar pad.
- Stainless hose clamps, carried on the coolant hoses near the engine.
I have found the Kriega tool rolls excellent, and one of the best companies I have dealt with online. It's held up well for 12 months. I put this in the Kreiga US5 on the tail and it's waterproof so my tools with never look like the powdered oxide they turned to rattling in the OEM tool pouch. If they added another zip up section to other end I think they will be perfect.
Great Kit Westoz. Just some points though. Why the deep sockets? More weight and I can't see on the bike where you would need them. Also why open and box wrenches? Only really need an open end for 10mm (cable adjustment) and 12mm (chain adjustment). You could use your shifter for the 14mm mirrors and 17mm plug socket.
revtor I agree with you on the weight issue and it's the reason I started this thread. I had accumulated a huge kit and in the end there were so many holes in it and redundant tools. So I have spent the last month really trimming that kit and discovering the minimal gear you really need for this bike to take off every bolt on the thing. Also agree on the maintenance part, as well as thread and nuts in good condition. Then you don't need a 5' breaker bar to remove an axle.
BleednGreen I think all of those pre-assembled tool kits half of the tools would be useless. Spend an hour in a good tool shop and you would have a cheaper kit custom built for your bike.
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 396
From: Redding CA
Nice writeup Nornalup.. Not just alot of tools, but a well thought out selection!!
I dont carry any tire stuff. Which I know will come back to bite me in the future. But even in my garage I couldn't change my tires. So how the hell could I do it out in the bush? I need a lesson I guess.
~Steve
I dont carry any tire stuff. Which I know will come back to bite me in the future. But even in my garage I couldn't change my tires. So how the hell could I do it out in the bush? I need a lesson I guess.
~Steve
How to change a dirt bike tire - Part 1 of 2 - Pit Pro MX 121108 - YouTube
How to change a dirt bike tire - Part 2 of 2 - Pit Pro MX 121108 - YouTube