Should I buy it? Need help
Hello everyone!
So, I own a Yamaha T7 and I’m in the market for a lighter, more trail-worthy bike that I can become a better off-road rider on.
Initially I had my eyes set on the DRZ400, but they are rare and very expensive in Norway. Today I suddenly came over another very rare bike, the KLX250S. I know his type of bike as my brother has the CRF250L.
The one I’ve found is an EFI 2010 with the FMF and EJK tuner, which I understand is important.
What I want opinions on is how trail worthy this bike is, as I learn and get better etc.
Any inputs are highly appreciated. I am 6’4 and 200lbs by the way.
So, I own a Yamaha T7 and I’m in the market for a lighter, more trail-worthy bike that I can become a better off-road rider on.
Initially I had my eyes set on the DRZ400, but they are rare and very expensive in Norway. Today I suddenly came over another very rare bike, the KLX250S. I know his type of bike as my brother has the CRF250L.
The one I’ve found is an EFI 2010 with the FMF and EJK tuner, which I understand is important.
What I want opinions on is how trail worthy this bike is, as I learn and get better etc.
Any inputs are highly appreciated. I am 6’4 and 200lbs by the way.
KLX was Ok, but I like DRZ better because of much better suspension and engine torque.
I'd say for your height&weight DRZ could be more suitable.
Just test rode the bike now, I liked it and it was in good shape. But there was a distinct ticking noise from the engine when riding. Not too used to thumpers, so cannot tell if this is normal or not. Ran fine besides the noise. Cant upload movies here, unfortunately.
That header with the little bulge in it is a FMF Powerbomb header. 
It adds exhaust volume and acts like a longer pipe which produces more low rpm torque.
That's good.
.

It adds exhaust volume and acts like a longer pipe which produces more low rpm torque.
That's good.

.
@tooter Thanks, I didnt know that!
The seller brought the bike to the dealer right after I test rode it. The mechanic said it shouldnt sound like that and it had to be checked. He said it could be valves out of spec or a loose cam chain. Not the biggest of deals, but I’d rather not start a new bike purchase by opening the engine.
I really liked the bike for what it is, but I think I will continue to look for a used DRZ for the added suspension and power. At 6’4 the KLX did feel like a toy bike. But again, I really liked it, it was a playful little thing.
I want to thank everyone thats helped out with comments and suggestions, you guys rock.
The seller brought the bike to the dealer right after I test rode it. The mechanic said it shouldnt sound like that and it had to be checked. He said it could be valves out of spec or a loose cam chain. Not the biggest of deals, but I’d rather not start a new bike purchase by opening the engine.
I really liked the bike for what it is, but I think I will continue to look for a used DRZ for the added suspension and power. At 6’4 the KLX did feel like a toy bike. But again, I really liked it, it was a playful little thing.
I want to thank everyone thats helped out with comments and suggestions, you guys rock.
The cam chain tensioner is crapped out. I sell them and have a KLX250 myself. I've heard enough to know that's it. It's a simple relatively inexpensive fix with a manual tensioner that I make. I'm sure a number of riders here will confirm what I am telling you. It needs done now though, when it is that noisy all the time it is totally junk and could allow the timing chain to jump, breaking a lot of parts. Use it to beat down the price, but it's no big deal to fix.
@klx678 Thanks a lot for your input. I’ve searched around a bit and already seen your comments in a few threads. I’ve never been inside an engine before, but I guess its something I could pull off with intructions. I did like the KLX250, but I would have to get a really good price if I have to open the engine to fix this issue.
I have some thinking to do.
I have some thinking to do.
You don't have to open the engine up. It is a half hour job without doing any more than turning the engine near TDC compression, then taking out the old tensioner that is on the back of the head, and bolting in the new one and adjusting it. Here is a link to instructions click here. I had one rider comment that if you knew which end of a screwdriver to use you could do the swap. He wasn't far off.


