I just got a free 1997 cr250 shock and was wondering if i could switch it out for the one on the klx, it seems to be maybe a little too long but its not compressed like the one still on the bike. I figured worse case scenario i could just drill some new mounting holes on the bottom.

Has any member on here ever done this?

 

Josh, it's usually a lot more complicated than that. Not sure how much suspension experience/knowledge you have, and I don't want to insult your dealings with it.

The piggyback will have to clear without any major modifications. The length has to be fairly equal or be ready to deal with linkage mods. It's probably a sure thing that the damping in that shock won't be compatible with what a KLX shock requires, and while this can be addressed with revalving, you'll probably be starting out in the dark. The shock eyelets may have to be addressed for fitment.

Question...why do you want to install this shock on your KLX?

 

It's no insult at all, I'm not a particularly light man, about 220 pounds, and from the research I've done, the shock is a stiffer one, I know I could just get a stiffer spring, but I figured why not give this one a shot, it was free. I have adjusted the preload on the klx but I am clueless when it comes to rebound and compression dampening. A revalve for the stock shock really isn't in my budget.

 

Have you inspected the piggyback orientation, and have you checked the shock eyelet compatibility? How are the shock ends in relationship to width and how the width compares to the mounting widths?

 

The eyelets look the same, and it seems like the piggyback will clear the frame. The only thing I haven't checked yet is the width of the mounting tabs.

 

The width of the mounting tabs is the same.

 

Well, it sounds like you can at least try to fit it up. If the length turns out markedly longer, be careful about the drive chain angle over the top of the swingarm. I'd set the bike on its skidplate on something to get the rear wheel off the ground. Take the spring off the shock and bolt it up. Cycle the rear wheel through the whole arc of its motion and see if any contact occurs anywhere. Remember that your bottomout bumper is probably more substantial than you can compress it by hand, so give yourself a small fudge factor for full compression in real world use. Watch the linkage movement closely also.

 

i would just get the shock re built and new spring if needed, 200 max if that