Shinko 705's on a KLX250s
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 4
Shinko 705's on a KLX250s
I've found some good reviews of 705's on Dual Sport bikes. What sizes are folks using for front and rear? It appears that these are tubeless, any problems running with tubes?
Any better in the dirt than stock tires? Probably 70/30 street/dirt. Any comments or suggestions welcome!
Any better in the dirt than stock tires? Probably 70/30 street/dirt. Any comments or suggestions welcome!
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,650
From: Delaware, Ohio
1st Gear Member
Only difference between tubeless and tube type these days will be the tubeless having an inner layer of rubber that makes it absolutely sealed in the carcass. This is not done on tube type and it could be possible air could find a path through the carcass of the tire - not likely, but possible. It does not hurt running the tube except that the tire manufacturers recommend the speed rating be considered dropped by one level. No way you will run a KLX long runs at the level the tire would be rated.
In other words - do it!
In other words - do it!
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Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 47
1st Gear Member
Only difference between tubeless and tube type these days will be the tubeless having an inner layer of rubber that makes it absolutely sealed in the carcass. This is not done on tube type and it could be possible air could find a path through the carcass of the tire - not likely, but possible. It does not hurt running the tube except that the tire manufacturers recommend the speed rating be considered dropped by one level. No way you will run a KLX long runs at the level the tire would be rated.
In other words - do it!
In other words - do it!
https://www.revzilla.com/common-trea...u-need-to-know
I ran several sets of 705s on my KLR650 and have used them one summer on my KLX250. They are ok off-road as long as things stay dry, but might as well be racing slicks in the mud. I replace them every fall with knobbies to get me through the wet season here (which isn't that long).
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,650
From: Delaware, Ohio
1st Gear Member
Tubeless tires have a different sidewall profile that makes them a bit harder to spoon on and off, but they work fine with a tube inside them. 705 sidewalls are reasonably soft so fixing a flat on the trail is still possible.
https://www.revzilla.com/common-trea...u-need-to-know
I ran several sets of 705s on my KLR650 and have used them one summer on my KLX250. They are ok off-road as long as things stay dry, but might as well be racing slicks in the mud. I replace them every fall with knobbies to get me through the wet season here (which isn't that long).
https://www.revzilla.com/common-trea...u-need-to-know
I ran several sets of 705s on my KLR650 and have used them one summer on my KLX250. They are ok off-road as long as things stay dry, but might as well be racing slicks in the mud. I replace them every fall with knobbies to get me through the wet season here (which isn't that long).
Revzilla has a wildly inaccurate statement in their information, "When a tubed tire takes a nail at 90 mph, the tube can deflate instantly, collapsing the tire with it." They do not deflate instantly, I've had examples of this when I pinched a tube in several places. The air didn't instantly blow out, the tire would air up then leak out. That's with several cuts longer than a simple nail puncture. The carcass of the two types of tires are near identical so they won't blow out catastrophically. Air will seep out of spoke holes after it works past a rim strip and the actual tube itself, it does not just deflate instantly. Many of us have experienced nails in tires without anything like that. I did about 50 miles riding with a nail in my tire, stopping twice to air up again when it got a bit wobbly.
The only thing I can think of when it comes to different profiles is simply the true profile. A tubeless 130/80 will be the same as a tube type 130/80 when it comes to size. A lot of tubeless are low profile, few tube type are, because anymore they are the off road tires that are tube type. All the rest are mostly tubeless because there is no general difference other than the inner liner that makes them able to hold air. If you are talking about the bead design, most tires have the tubeless style MT bead these days, it is more the rim that may be different in the profile of the rim where the bead fits. The WM bead doesn't lock the tire on as does the MT A tire using a tube doesn't need the locking design MT bead and in off road use that style bead profile would make it harder than heck to break down the tire to repair a flat. The difference between WM type and MT type of the rims.
Image A WM type rim
Image B MT type rim
Just the fine points.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 4
Revzilla has a wildly inaccurate statement in their information, "When a tubed tire takes a nail at 90 mph, the tube can deflate instantly, collapsing the tire with it." They do not deflate instantly, I've had examples of this when I pinched a tube in several places. The air didn't instantly blow out, the tire would air up then leak out. That's with several cuts longer than a simple nail puncture. The carcass of the two types of tires are near identical so they won't blow out catastrophically. Air will seep out of spoke holes after it works past a rim strip and the actual tube itself, it does not just deflate instantly. Many of us have experienced nails in tires without anything like that. I did about 50 miles riding with a nail in my tire, stopping twice to air up again when it got a bit wobbly.
The only thing I can think of when it comes to different profiles is simply the true profile. A tubeless 130/80 will be the same as a tube type 130/80 when it comes to size. A lot of tubeless are low profile, few tube type are, because anymore they are the off road tires that are tube type. All the rest are mostly tubeless because there is no general difference other than the inner liner that makes them able to hold air. If you are talking about the bead design, most tires have the tubeless style MT bead these days, it is more the rim that may be different in the profile of the rim where the bead fits. The WM bead doesn't lock the tire on as does the MT A tire using a tube doesn't need the locking design MT bead and in off road use that style bead profile would make it harder than heck to break down the tire to repair a flat. The difference between WM type and MT type of the rims.
Image A WM type rim
Image B MT type rim
Just the fine points.
The only thing I can think of when it comes to different profiles is simply the true profile. A tubeless 130/80 will be the same as a tube type 130/80 when it comes to size. A lot of tubeless are low profile, few tube type are, because anymore they are the off road tires that are tube type. All the rest are mostly tubeless because there is no general difference other than the inner liner that makes them able to hold air. If you are talking about the bead design, most tires have the tubeless style MT bead these days, it is more the rim that may be different in the profile of the rim where the bead fits. The WM bead doesn't lock the tire on as does the MT A tire using a tube doesn't need the locking design MT bead and in off road use that style bead profile would make it harder than heck to break down the tire to repair a flat. The difference between WM type and MT type of the rims.
Image A WM type rim
Image B MT type rim
Just the fine points.
