Well it is not the water! It only happens while on or after a long ride. I rode it 45 miles yesterday with no problems. Then we I stopped to survey the trail and it was dead when I tried to start it! So a few years ago I was riding my 2008 FZ6 when I still had it and I was headed home the temperature was 100 degrees and it died no power no motor nothing! I pushed it off the street and was poking around and I found a pebble in the cooling fan. I dislodged it and called a buddy who helped me home. That pebble froze the fan and took out the battery. I am thinking maybe seeing as it only happens when hot that my fan is pulling too much power draining the battery? I understand that the KLX has a spinning fan but maybe?

Ohenry

 

Can anyone verify if you have no battery and you bump start your bike does the speed LCD come on? All I get is a blinker light?

Thanks,

Ohenry

 

So I'm no electrical guru or even a hack, but you just did the 351 a while ago and had to displace a bunch of wiring, right? Have you checked the harness for chafing and loose plugs? Did you do the tests recommended yet?
I'm just trying to apply the KISS method. I go back to when it was fine and move forward, eliminating possibilities, in I hope, a logical series.
Definitely seems time to get familiar with a wiring diagram and a multimeter.
Good luck.

 

some of your symptoms could indicate lack of proper charging
thats why i suggested confirming the stator output AC voltage FIRST

if its a bad stator, you will continue to have dead battery conditions,
possibly kill another R/R, and risk other elect items like the ECU also

if the stator output VAC is good, you can then move on to step #2

The FSM specs 41 volts AC at 4k rpm thru each leg.
the 41 VAC is NOT an absolute, and is not the most critical thing
what IS important is that you are making say at least 40 VAC in EACH LEG
and that all three legs are close to the same voltage (this is AC volts!)
example: 40/43/46 would prob be OK, but 32/90/65 would be a concern
you should also see a similar but lower VAC at idle, say maybe 15 VAC each

having said that, it IS possible to have a heat triggered fault
in almost any elect part that will not show under cold or static testing

just for fun, it would be possible to ride coast to coast on battery if you had a semi truck following you with a load of fresh batts and wanted to change them out several times an hour, but it would not be cost effective or very fun

im sure you want to have your bikes range be further than a battery

 

Thanks.

I just tested it and at 4000rpm I get 58, 54, 42

At the battery post I am only getting 13.28 at 4000rpm and 13.8 at idle

Ohenry

 

Next I tested the rectifier and the first test was conductivity with no power and it tested good. Next the call for a battery and light bulb. I don't have one can't I just use my Fluke meter? If so how?

Thanks,

Blake

 

I didn't remember having a problem with the bikes electronics prior to the installation of the 351 kit. When I took closer look at the wires running under the tank I found that there was nothing holding he wires away from the top of the motor. At the point on the cable there was some fraying of the cable wrap. So I zip tied it up on the frame and went for an hour and half ride and checked the battery power and it was @ 12.99.

I ordered this clamp 902170

But I don't think I will need it!

Ohenry

 

I had similar problems - turned out when I took the rectifier plug off to add dielectric grease I didn't quite plug it all the way back in... ugh.