Removing Air Suction Valve System: WHY???
#61
If you really want to save weight I have a good tip, may save up to 4 lb. Check the bead on your rims, odds are the profile is a tubeless profile. If so, then seal the spokes either with a do-it-yourself method as lots have or get one of the kits - no tubes, no tube weight. I believe the rims used on the 250/300 are MT rims, both dual sport and SM. Definitely worth a look. BMW's tire tech points out that the MT and MT2 rims are tubeless bead design click here,
The point about the PAIR valve is that there is no gain other than maybe a pound in weight, which is irrelevant to 99% of the KLX riders. Five pounds, maybe a big deal. Plus if they do not delete the cat convertor they risk problems there. Besides, the message was to the rider considering it and asking about performance benefit, of which there is nearly none what so ever. It's like painting rims, no benefit other than looks and preferences.
The point about the PAIR valve is that there is no gain other than maybe a pound in weight, which is irrelevant to 99% of the KLX riders. Five pounds, maybe a big deal. Plus if they do not delete the cat convertor they risk problems there. Besides, the message was to the rider considering it and asking about performance benefit, of which there is nearly none what so ever. It's like painting rims, no benefit other than looks and preferences.
We each enjoy the same freedom to modify them to suit our own individual tastes.
#62
Do check on the ability to go tubeless. I am not kidding. It will cut around 2 lb/tube and the weight is also rotating mass. It just struck me while writing the reply.
This video shows both kinds of rims, the WM, which should be tube only (although some people are making them tubeless, I wouldn't) and the rear rim, which is an MT type with the tubeless bead profile.
This video shows both kinds of rims, the WM, which should be tube only (although some people are making them tubeless, I wouldn't) and the rear rim, which is an MT type with the tubeless bead profile.
#63
Do check on the ability to go tubeless. I am not kidding. It will cut around 2 lb/tube and the weight is also rotating mass. It just struck me while writing the reply.
This video shows both kinds of rims, the WM, which should be tube only (although some people are making them tubeless, I wouldn't) and the rear rim, which is an MT type with the tubeless bead profile.
https://youtu.be/YPG8buNvTCc
This video shows both kinds of rims, the WM, which should be tube only (although some people are making them tubeless, I wouldn't) and the rear rim, which is an MT type with the tubeless bead profile.
https://youtu.be/YPG8buNvTCc
I'll definitely look into going tubeless when the rear tire wears out.
The general rule is one pound of rotating weight has the effect on performance equivalent to five to ten pounds of static weight.
#64
It just struck me at that point. I did a quick search and a 120-17 tube weighs like 3 lb, so you're seriously looking at knocking 6 lb off the bike plus the rotating mass. That is definitely worth looking at! Half way makes it worth considering on the rear tire of the dual sport... be kind of good to be able to plug a tire quickly on the trail. I think the front rim on them may not have the tubeless bead.
#65
It just struck me at that point. I did a quick search and a 120-17 tube weighs like 3 lb, so you're seriously looking at knocking 6 lb off the bike plus the rotating mass. That is definitely worth looking at! Half way makes it worth considering on the rear tire of the dual sport... be kind of good to be able to plug a tire quickly on the trail. I think the front rim on them may not have the tubeless bead.
I use my bike every day in my business so that won't take long.
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