I've been trying to sort out my rear shock for a while now, and up to an hour ago I was under the impression that the previous owner had raised the seat by adding a linkage. I now know he meant the seat could be raised. Might have just been a slip of mind on his behalf, maybe slight dislexia... either way I've had it backwards for the last 4 months. I compared the linkage installed with the linkage included in the spare parts. The one on the bike was longer than the one included. Longer mean lowered....

The linkage installed was a 119.5, and the included linkage was 117. The 117 is the stock linkage for the 2006-2007 klx250s and the 119.5 is stock on the 2008 forward bikes.

When I set my preload to proper race sag between 90 and 100mm, I have a static sag of of over 35mm. I've read a few conflicting numbers on the subject.. Some sources say static sag should be between 25 and 50mm, 20 and 40mm, 25-35mm on the planet klx page.

Does one adjust preload with the compression and rebound settings completely backed off? Or at stock settings?

 

Your static setting is just that, "static". The compression and rebound settings don't affect it as they are dynamic.

Ride on
Brewster

 

Generaly the sag should be around 33% of the full suspension travel and the static sag around 10%.
That would be 92mm sag and 28mm static sag.
Once you adjust the sag, you look at the static sag do decide if your spring is ok for your weight. Those numbers are starting point, depending on how/where you ride you can go softer or harder.

 

If your running the 08+ linkage your suspension travel is less, one would reduce the sag target's proportionally with the reduction in travel.

Do u have the stock spring? What is your wt?

 

I weigh about 145lbs with gear. Stock rear spring (based on evidence). I was adjusting the preload using the stock linkage, 117. Knowing that a lowering link makes the rear spring effectively softer, I installed the 119.5 to try and get a static sag closer to spec. Still no go. Either I've lost weight, or I'm missing something here :/ That's why I asked if compression setting would effect the spring rate. I had it dialed all the way out anyway, just to be sure. I was going to try it with settings at standard, 16 comp and 12 rebound to see if it makes a difference but Brewster says it won't matter.

When I bought the bike, the previous owner had the 119.5 link installed and the preload dialed wayyy in. He was at least 180lbs so it makes sense that he would need alot more preload especially using the lowering link.

I want to get it as close as I can without changing the spring. I have other priorities right now, such as the front forks.

I've installed a heavier spring from racetech, and still need to dial it in properly... I didn't use spacers, and the sag in the front is too much.. and then there is the valves :O Anyway, I clearly have work to do

 

I can't follow anything you said & have a headache.

 

Have a beer lol

I admit my ramblings can be hard to follow sometimes...

As far as the front forks go, they are still causing me the same grief that they were in an earlier thread I started. I thought I had sorted it out but alas, the problem persists.

My forks are not smooth in operation. There is some serious binding going on. They only compress on hard impacts. Sometimes when I sit on the bike they won't even compress at all. There is a small amount of sag when the bike comes off the kickstand, and then they just stick there. It makes the front end extremely rigid, and while riding on the road I can feel every single imperfection and undulation on the surface. It floats over potholes and hard bumps, but acts like a solid steel bar over tar snakes and other things

I'm at my wit's end with this, I've listed the bike online. If no one gives me my asking price I'll carry on with trying to fix it. I'm feeling defeated, I've never had a bike that was soo harsh to ride.

 

Your weight suggests to me stocks springs should be fine and I'm assuming you changed oil in both front and rear. Oil is huge in suspension. Fresh is so slippery compared to old sometimes that is all it takes

The best way to make sure the front forks are running on the same plane (most effect on smooth action) is to collapse the forks (like your checking oil level but can leave springs installed) ,loosen the bottom triple clamps and torque to spec (overtight will bind there), then loosen the top triple clamps, the axle a full turn and axle clamp enough to wiggle (you'll soon see if anything is bent or if forks are set at different heights).
If everything lines up horizontally then torque the top clamps and recheck the way the axle sits. Then torque the axle (again observe for deflection during rotation) Then torque the axle clamp (it should look square to the clamping surface). Then drop the front wheel down loosen the upper clamps again and install fork caps. Retorque upper clamps.

If all went well that's as good as it gets without the new bushings but in my experience bushings (short of totally wasted and pitted) usually make little difference as long as you have good oil.

 

Thanks for the tip geo. I was going to order the motion pro fork alignment tool, but this seems like a cheaper option.

I'm going to try this, and see if it helps. When I had the fork tubes off the bike to fix a leaky seal, there was smooth action on each tube if I put my weight on it. Misaligned axle or tube would make sense

 

Thanks for taking the time to write this. I followed your instructions but the fork action is still the same.