Rear preload adjustment.

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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 06:25 PM
  #1  
jimntr's Avatar
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From: Asheville, NC.
Default Rear preload adjustment.

I got my jetting done and the bike runs GREAT! Now how do you go about setting the rear preload? I know that I need to stiffen up the rear spring but the little tool that came in the tool kit cant get any swing. I have tightened it a little with a long screw driver and a hammer but this is messing up the teeth on the adjuster nut. How do you tighten the spring correctly? Do you actually remove the shock?

Thanks,

Jim......
 
Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:32 PM
  #2  
LongmontKLXr's Avatar
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Default To be "Technically Correct"

... one buys a spanner wrench designed for that purpose, and can usually adjust on the bike, whilst leaving the adjusting nut pristine.

The other 99.9% of us use a large screwdriver, punch, piece of metal stock and a big freakin' hammer ... just like you. Yeah, a screwdriver will bugger up the nut a bit, try using something else ... or become the elite who own a proper spanner wrench.

"but the little tool that came in the tool kit" ... you must have a special edition model! I've never had a dirt bike that came with rear shock pre-load tools. My '09 KLX no exception.
 
Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:44 PM
  #3  
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Just in case you didn't see it, there are two items that need to be spun. You have to loosen the locking nut before you try to turn the adjuster nut.
When the shock is on the bike, all I use is a long rod or screwdriver and hammer.
I have a spanner wrench for the nuts but there's not enough room to swing it.

Ride on
Brewster
 
Old Feb 10, 2010 | 09:48 PM
  #4  
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Unweight the shock (lift the rear wheel off the ground.)

This may help. https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ght=Adjustment
 

Last edited by WestOzKLX; Feb 10, 2010 at 09:55 PM.
Old Feb 10, 2010 | 11:40 PM
  #5  
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Just spin the entire spring by hand until it gets too tight, then if you need more you will need the spanner or a hammer/punch..
 
Old Feb 11, 2010 | 02:50 PM
  #6  
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I've used brass rods about 1' long by 3/8" to 1/2" dia and a hammer to loosen the locking ring. The brass is softer than the steel lock or adjustment rings so you don't bugger them up. Usually once the locking ring is loose you can just turn the spring as the adjustment ring will often stay with the spring. If it's stuborn then tap the adjustment ring as well. There is a ton of info on the web and probably in your owners manual on how to properly adjust the preload for your weight.
 
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