Rear End Spring
#11
04-12-2012, 05:43 PM
[QUOTE=EMS_0525;469913]Yes one is the "lock nut" which is the one on top. The lower nut is the one the spring seats against. So spin the top nut up to free up the lower nut then you will need to beat it with a punch and hammer to turn it towards the ground to add preload.
(Just to be on the safe side, put on your glasses and wear some Mechanix-type gloves when you do this. It can be a knuckle-buster.)
(Just to be on the safe side, put on your glasses and wear some Mechanix-type gloves when you do this. It can be a knuckle-buster.)
#12
04-12-2012, 05:56 PM
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 12,584
[ quote =EMS_0525;469913]Yes one is the "lock nut" which is the one on top. The lower nut is the one the spring seats against. So spin the top nut up to free up the lower nut then you will need to beat it with a punch and hammer to turn it towards the ground to add preload.
(Just to be on the safe side, put on your glasses and wear some Mechanix-type gloves when you do this. It can be a knuckle-buster.)
(Just to be on the safe side, put on your glasses and wear some Mechanix-type gloves when you do this. It can be a knuckle-buster.)
wuss....
way to mess up the quote....
#14
04-12-2012, 06:22 PM
I'm stuck on the comment that it's beating your back...
When you sit on it (stationary) can you get someone to see how far the spring is compressing?
You said it's not damping... Is there *any* damping going on at all??? If you plop your butt in the seat, it should squish down slowly, not go "boing" like you're jumping on a spring. Maybe your shock is shot???
Seems to me; the tighter the spring, the MORE ground feedback you're going to get. The damping *should* soften it, but if the spring is too tight, you limit the damping action.
When you sit on it (stationary) can you get someone to see how far the spring is compressing?
You said it's not damping... Is there *any* damping going on at all??? If you plop your butt in the seat, it should squish down slowly, not go "boing" like you're jumping on a spring. Maybe your shock is shot???
Seems to me; the tighter the spring, the MORE ground feedback you're going to get. The damping *should* soften it, but if the spring is too tight, you limit the damping action.
Last edited by rgoers; 04-12-2012 at 06:25 PM.
#15
04-12-2012, 06:32 PM
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 12,584
It will have preload on it already. which means the nut will be compressing the spring already, and you will be mechanically compressing the spring with the nut. there is no free play between the nut and the top of the spring, thats the only way it would spin free. So spinning the nut down further compresses the spring which puts tension on the nut.
#19
04-12-2012, 11:12 PM
You get a spring that matches your weight to set the correct ride height.
The shock then absorbs the "shock" by dampening the compression and rebound.
Get the bike off the ground, loosen the lock nut, and then you can turn the spring by hand. The lower nut will spin to loosen or tighten to get you where you need to be.
Bike sag should be 25-35mm.
Rider sag should be 90-100mm
KLX SAG ADJUSTMENTS
If you can't hit these numbers, then you got the wrong spring.
The shock then absorbs the "shock" by dampening the compression and rebound.
Get the bike off the ground, loosen the lock nut, and then you can turn the spring by hand. The lower nut will spin to loosen or tighten to get you where you need to be.
Bike sag should be 25-35mm.
Rider sag should be 90-100mm
KLX SAG ADJUSTMENTS
If you can't hit these numbers, then you got the wrong spring.
#20
04-12-2012, 11:22 PM
Shock Nut
When you turn the nuts be aware the lugs can catch on the hose clamp for the carb air inlet.
Might have to loosen or remove the clamp to avoid conflict with the shock nut lugs.
Might have to loosen or remove the clamp to avoid conflict with the shock nut lugs.