I have resisted replying, because my thoughts on suspension work are not shared by everyone.
IMO, a lot (probably most) of the people that lay out serious of cash for big dollar suspension work don't need to. You can fix a lot of the problems yourself.

If you're a novice, or recreational rider, I don't think it's money well spent. For your weight, I would replace the springs in the front, and try running heavier oil, probably 7.5W to start, for the rebound. You have compression adjustment.
In the back, I would just replace the spring. The compression, and rebound adjustments should have enough range.
You can do both of these jobs yourself, they're simple. If you're not happy with the results, you can still do a little tweaking, and in the end, if you're still not happy, you can have the valves installed, but I don't think you will want to.

My race bike had serious handling problems and it was obvious. Everybody told me to spend the money and have it revalved. I wanted to see if I could do something first, and fixed it with springs in the front, and lighter oil in front and back. The oil I use in the back shock is the lightest suspension fluid you can buy, and now I'm right in the middle of the adjustment range, where it should be.
Everybody that rides my bike comments on how well the the suspension works.
Total cost was $150

 

I'd get the right springs on it for your weight, then go out and get the clickers set where it works best. You may be happy with the shock, or if not provide your shock guy where you ended up on the clickers (all the way open/closed etc). The fork use a ziptie on it to record your travle used on what you'd consider an aggressive bump that should use most the travel. It's usually fast downhill drop offs or woops that this bike isn't made for, LOL. Adjust the fork comp to where your using most the travel in this situation. Then note it's setting for reference. If there isn't enough rebound you can try thicker oil, but continue to monitor it's effect on the comp setting (how far your pushing the zip tie down. If that's not enough, tell your fork tuner what you've done and what is the "best" set up. Susp shop setups are only as good as the info you can give them. The fact that others have found a setup to be "better" and never called the guy back does no way mean in can't be better for you.

 

Arctra, that's about what I did...the whole shootin' match. I did it myself, so it saved some money in that respect, but it's really the only way to fix the suspension totally. Even John at MotoPro will tell you the compression piston in both the front and rear are woefully inadequate to flow enough oil to prevent compression spikes regardless of spring swapping. Brewster is right about the fork's rebound stack not being readily available to revalving, but going to heavier fork springs and a real working compression stack in the fork has made a world of positive difference.

On the rebound, here's my take. Before modification I thought the fork rebound was a little too slow, and since there's no external adjuster, there's no easy way to adjust it except through oil viscosity change...going lighter or heavier according to preference. However, that also changes compression, which while externally adjustable, may be out of its tuning range with the new oil. Now, since revalving the compression stack and main piston, and then installing heavier springs with the same OEM recommended oil viscosity, the rebound has sped up due to the stronger springs. It seems a more balanced match now.

On the rear shock, the rebound and compression are externally adjustable, so you have more tuning latittude here. Still, getting the rid of the OEM piston and shim stack makes a world of difference and gets rid of that annoying compression spike. The rear suspension will yield more initial plushness and more controlled bottomout resitance. That may sound like snake oil, but a good shim stack does just that. It's amazing that I'm running a step stiffer rear spring but have more plushness and small bump compliance.

Brewster and others have done some impressive fork swaps with KX forks, but that requires some decent knowledge and a little fabrication. And while those forks had better valving than the KLX fork in stock trim, I contend that even they benefit from some revalving. Maybe some of it comes down to money vs. return or the right-tool-for-the-job approach when we're talking about a KLX here. Unlimited funds would have grabbing one of those custom Ohlins fork setups...but then...why would I be riding a KLX?

Unlimited funds...Hmmmm...I can see it now. I'm riding my new Husky 390 in Moab, while my personal driver is following along in the fully equipped and stocked 4X4 off road camping van with all the amenities. As the day wears on I send him ahead to set up camp and have a hot shower and a cold one waiting on me when I arrive. What a life!...LOL!

 

Don't apologize mate! Give yourself a pat on the back for being willing and able to voice your opinion which goes against the "norm". It's exactly what I am looking for to form a balanced opinion. Thank you.

Recreation ride wise, I would classify myself "novice to intermediate", but I have been told I rode my bike HARD on the ride I took it on. If I have to be honest, I wanted to ride it harder - I was holding back after the first couple of times I bottomed the suspension out. I would love to have been able to ride it harder.

I don't only use the bike for recreational rides though. Most of its milage is clocked up during the week riding to and from work. I'm trying to figure out what that means to me and my decision. Does the fact that I use the bike so much make it easier to justify spending money on "doing it properly"? Or does it re-enforce your assertion that it's not a "race bike" and therefore I would be wasting my money? *AAAAAAAGGGGGHHHHH*

Unfortunately this is where I beg to differ. I might be capable to do it myself, but I don't have the tools and confidence to DIY. Especially when it comes to settings of the suspension and knowing "what's right".

Part of the benefit of getting Terry to do it is that he has tracks for you to test the setup out and he observes how you ride and makes adjustments accordingly. At least through doing that I will have a good base setup to work from. From there I can learn more about tweaking it and changing the settings to suit the conditions.

 

Terry Hay has done suspension for many race teams as well as average riders, he knows more than just about anybody.

 

The KLX forks are really simple. You shouldn't let your confidence hold you back. It's the perfect time to learn. The experience you gain will serve you for years. I knew nothing about suspension when I started working on mine, and now I have no problems setting up at the track for changing conditions.

 

I have plenty of skills, and probably most of the tools if not all (and I'm always happy with an excuse to buy a new tool) however with tuning my shocks, at least the first time around I'd rather have someone who really knows their stuff doing it. However, I'm not expecting anything like $1000 more like $500 This is the place I plan on taking my bike to http://www.werproducts.net/Suspension-Products.html and unless I wanted titanium springs, which I dont, I can't see any reason why this is going to go over 500. In my case, I'm heavy enough I'm sure that I need new springs, and that a revalve to go with it will vastly improve my riding experience.

 

OK, I think I've made my decision now. I have taken zomby woof's advice (well, some of it anyway) and am just going to change the springs and front oil for now. But I'll get Terry to do that and set the bike up as best he can seeing as he has the experience and knowledge.

I'll see how that goes, and then if I feel I need something more, I figure I can get the valves done later when I get the seals redone or something. That reduces the hit on the hip pocket, and I should see a big improvement over stock at the same time.

Once the "Minister of Home Affairs" gives her stamp of approval I'll be booking the bike in. Thanks for all the advice and opinions guys.

 

I have adjusted suspension on two KLX with help from John at Moto Pro. I sent him forks and rear spring for a 250sf and had him change out springs and spacers to lower the bike for my GF. Kept the same spring rate. That worked out Great.
At the same time I had him ship me springs for front and rear. I am just under 250# but I ordered springs for 220# becuase I mostly ride the bike on the slab and am not into getting air. I installed the rear spring one weekend and the front springs the next weekend(Forgot them at work) I noticed HUGE difference with the rear spring and think it is exactly what I want/need. I did not notice much change in ride or nose dive from changeing out the front springs. I probably should have gone a little stiffer. One day I may put in thicker oil but I would rather have proper springs.
Tested out the weight capacity last weekend when the GF's 18yo 250# son rode behind me. Bike was feelin it but did not bottom out.

So to sum it up in my opinion go a little lighter on the rear than what the spring calculators tell you if your not heavy into the offroad but go with the recomendations for the front.

Either way changing springs for guys our size makes the KLX a better bike.

Cheers Jim


Edit this to send her ahead and I would have to agree with you

 

LOL!, maninthesea...since I'm married, the "her" had better be my wife.