Hi, has anyone removed the racers from the steering head tube? If so, how did you do this? Do I need the special 'Race Remover' tool or just hammer them out? Will the hammering damage the steering tube any? Then when installing the new racers, do I need the special 'Race Press Shaft' tool with top and bottom race drivers? Or just hammer in the new ones? Could hammering deform the racers?

 

You can pry them in and out without the "factory" tools ya just got to be careful.
The races are pretty hard steel so it would take a fair wack to bend em.
You can try a bit of heat to the tube but really just gently tapping around the race should get it out.
Good luck.

BTW, why? are the races really stuffed?

 

neilaction, the racers came out after some persuasion with a metal rod and hammering around the rim evenly. The top racer went back in pretty well using a rubber mallet and then I needed to go with a block of wood and regular hammer to drive it flush with the top of the tube. The bottom racer is harder and needs to go up inside the tube an eighth of an inch. I have it flush now but don't know how to get it recessed without taking a chance of using something like a flat head screw on the racer's rim and hoping it doesn't slip. I need help here!

 

I'm not sure what that is, can you post a pic?

 

Use the old race as a driver. Use a block of wood and hammer it in.

 

You may remember about 2 weeks ago I had that notching in the steering and you guys where right it was the steering stem bearings. I took the steering stem apart, cleaned the rusted/dirty bottom bearing, re-greased (top/bottom) and re-assembled. I was at the AMA sponsored Hancock NY Quarry Run last week and felt it was still not to my liking so I decided to replace the steering stem roller bearings and the sleeves (or as the manual refers to them - races).

Steps:
1. Bought quality waterproof grease = Bel-Ray 16oz Tub $6.95 (I'm set for life, anyone need some grease?)
2. Bought Moose Racing Steering Stem Bearings Part #0410-0022 for $39.95 (Called around to 5 dealers and no one had the kawi parts in stock and I wanted to do this today. FYI... Kawi parts would have ran me $72).
3. Took apart the front end. I found the second time around I did NOT have to take off the speedometer and ignition. I removed the bottom two bolts from the bottom steering stem and left the top two bolted to the triple tree. I did however remove both fork tubes this time. With the fork tubes removed it was easier to move the speedometer/ignition/tripletree up and to the side.
4. Hammered out the races from the top and bottom of the steering tube. I used a metal 3/4" X 24" rod and hammer working around the edge in a circle. The races are very strong - hammer away. SAVE the old races!
5. Went to the dealer with the steering stem to have them remove and re-press the bottom roller bearing - $30 and 60 mile round trip.
6. Hammered in new races as far as I could = flush with steering tube. I then needed to fabricate a tool to finish the job.
7. Went to hardware store and bought a 12" bolt and a bunch of washers - see picture - $8.50 and 10 mile round trip.
8. Used the old races with the home made tool to recess the new races - see pictures.
9. Reassembled front end following torque specifications - Ahh I got to use the new Torque Wrench I bought on sale at Sears last week. Doh, it's 1/2" and my sockets are 3/8". Went back to hardware store for a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor - $7 and 10 mile round trip.

Total time (including driving and waiting at dealer) = 10 hrs
Total cost (including tax and rounding up for gas) = $100
Satisfaction of knowing it was done right = priceless

Oh, and it handles fantastic!

I feel like an expert at this now. Feel free to ask me any questions on this topic