I currently have a 2010 Husky TE450 as my weekend bike, while I keep my KLX as my commuter bike. My Husky is becoming less reliable and probably not far off needing replacing, but I have spent a lot of money on getting the forks and shock re-valved and they work beautifully... so I really don't want to get rid of them.

This got me thinking, maybe I could move the forks/triple-clamps and shock over from the Husky to the KLX. I know that this would change the ergo's of the KLX and I cannot expect the suspension to work the same on the KLX, but I am still sure it'll be a LOT better than the stock KLX suspension.

If the shocks are very close to the same length I reckon moving the shock over would be the quickest and easiest to do. That is assuming the mounts either end of the Husky shock are the right size to fit the frame mount and linkage mount (ans swingarm) on the KLX of course. Any comments/opinions on that?

The forks I reckon will be more complicated. The Husky forks are 48mm KYB's so I would need to use the Husky clamps as the KLX clamps are only for the 43mm forks. Now, moving the triple clamps over is not as trivial as it may first sound, as it not only needs to fit into the KLX frame. The bearings need to fit (or be changed to fit), the instrument cluster and headlight assembly might need modification (or I may need to move the Husky setup over), and the front wheel/brake setup will need to come off the Husky too. I know guys have put forks off KX's on the KLX, but I think they've been the same size forks (43mm?) so it's easy. Anyone tried a different bike, different size, etc. transplant? I would imagine it's easier to try and modify spacers or something for the Husky triple clamp to get it to fit, unless anyone knows of KLX triple-clamps that can take 48mm forks?

I believe the rake angle on the Husky and the KLX are different too, which may make getting the ergo's and handling right difficult. And if the shock lengths are different (but still fit) it may alter the height of the rear end which will also affect the bike. Might be an interesting project though. Any thoughts and opinions would be welcome.

 

I have no idea how close the rear shock would be between these two bikes, but I seriously doubt they would be as similar as you might think. I'll bet the piggyback orientation isn't that close...the length is probably different...and the bolt sizes and hardware designs are probably quite different. The fork is actually probably closer or easier to fit than the rear shock. That said, I think the travel difference is probably quite different to the point that it would throw geometry and handling off to a large degree. That 450 Husky fork has to be at least 12" of travel, doesn't it? You'll be putting it on a bike with a 9" or 10" front front travel if memory serves me correctly.

I love interesting and challenging projects to some degree, but this one sounds a little too tough. But...stranger things have been done.

 

Does the Husky shock have a reservoir built into the top of it? If so, what angle is it in relation to the shock? The KLX's reservoir is angled different than most other Kayaba shocks. Different angle won't fit in the frame.
And to add to the equation, there is the linkage at the bottom of the shock.

To fit the forks, most likely a custom machined steering stem would have to be made.

Ride on
Brewster

 

Husky
Front height 50.6"
Fork Axle travel on leg axis 11.81"
Rear Wheel travel 11.65"
Centre clearance 11.8"
Rake 25.8 degrees (I think)

KLX
Front height 47.4"
Fork Axle travel on leg axis 10"
Rear Wheel travel 9.06"
Centre clearance 11.2"
Rake 26.5 degrees

So yes, there are some pretty big differences there.

Fair enough - thanks for your thoughts. As I said, just one of those "I wonder" idea's rather than something I'm convinced would work or is do-able.

I don't think so - I'm pretty sure the reservoir is to the side like the KLX one - but I could be wrong.

*shrug* I guess I would have to look into that if I decide to try the mod.

My Husky has a Sachs shock rather than a KYB one - which probably complicates things even more.

Yeah, I wondered about using the Husky linkage - maybe even the while swingarm if it mounts correctly/easily - but suspect that's even more difficult/complicated.

Yeah - not sure the cost would be worth it. If I try this, it'll be trying to do it for as little cost as possible - which is why I reckon spacers or the like would be the go.

 

Well, my Husky died last weekend so I thought I was going to be giving this project a go sooner rather than later. But then today a kind soul managed to fix the Husky for me. Turns out a fuse had worked its way loose which had caused the intermittent cutting problems I had. Eventually the fuse fell out which is why the bike died altogether. Because there wasn't a fuse for me to check I didn't pick up on it - it was only when he studied the wiring diagram that he noticed the missing fuse. After putting a fuse in the bike fired up again.

Although I'm very happy that the Husky still lives, it was almost a little disappointing that I wasn't going to give this suspension transplant a go. I'm sure it'll happen eventually though as the Husky won't last forever, its resale value is pathetic, and the suspension is by far the most valuable part of the bike and the only bit really worth trying to save.

Would love to see if anyone else has given suspension transplants a go (other than the old KX forks).

 

That husky is pretty good if the bike's been taken care of, I wouldn't give up on it. All the problems I've seen with them is(mikuni) fuel injection related, and (ducati) fuel pumps. With a carb like the earlier years they are pretty solid. The subframes and muffler mounts can need some weld if the bike ridden hard loaded with gear. Making it right (I'd rip that FI off) would be less work than an unlikely suspension swap.

 

I looked into that and unfortunately it's not just a case of whipping out the FI Throttlebody and putting an FCR Carb in its place. It needs a whole lot of electrical work too (stator, etc) which basically puts it into the "too hard" basket.

I really am interested to see why everyone seems to think the suspension swap is so difficult. There is probably a consensus for a reason, but I'm the kind of idiot that likes to make the mistake for themselves rather than learning from others mistakes

 

I wish you luck in this. It's always bothered me that we have so few alternatives in the area of suspension.

Unfortunately, this one looks like a lot of trouble and is not likely to give John Q. KLX owner any additional easy alternatives.

You can probably make the front end pretty easy with some creative use of spacers and bearings in the steering head. The rear - changes will likely be needed both upper and lower just to make it fit. And then, once it fits you have to worry about balance front/rear due to the frame differences between the 2 bikes. Doable - always. Easy - no.

I think someone else suggested putting that KLX motor in the Husky frame for a super reliable hybrid? That sounds like a hell of an opportunity. The old KLX website (PlanetKLX) was full of KLX/KX hybrids. KDXRider.net has a whole section on KDX/KX hybrids. But KLX/Husky - that'd be fun. The only way you'll ever see a reliable husky... Sorry, my personal bias is bubbling.

Whichever way you go - best of luck and congrats on having the ***** to give it a go.

 

dj, I agree on the relative ease of fitting the Husky fork, geometry/handling issues notwithstanding. However, I think we already have a very good rear shock and suspension rate design with the stock setup. All the rear shock needs is revalving for optimum performance and rider preference...and maybe a spring depending on rider weight and use.

Engine swaps...sounds great but involves all manner of issues that most people don't realize. Those kinds of projects are usually not based on logic as much as they are driven by personal challenge and/or tinkeritis gone amuck.

In the "old days" there were few choices and options for many riders who had specific needs or desires in a given type and style of bike. That's not so much the case today. At a certain point where a rider/bike owner feels that he needs to chuck his entire suspension and/or engine, it's probably because he's on the wrong bike and needs to select something else.

 

Yeah, I figured with the front end as long as I can find the right bearings to fit the KLX frame and Husky tripleclamp I should be able to do the front end... but I doubt it'll be "easy" as even if I can fit the tripleclamps up I then need to sort out speedo, light, etc as well.

With the rear, at the end of the day the Husky shock will fit or it won't. I doubt there's anything I can really do if the shock doesn't fit unless I look into using the husky swingarm and linkage which would probably be way too difficult.

Yeah, putting the KLX engine in the Husky frame is a no-go IMO. For registration I would then need to get an engineers certificate to say that the motorcycle still meets Australian design requirements... I suspect we're talking thousands of dollars making it pointless.

Also, remember the Husky is fuel injected so the fuel tank doesn't have a traditional petcock - it has a huge hole at the back of the tank where the fuel pump assembly bolts on. So to make the tank work with a KLX engine I would need to find a way of sealing that hole off and putting in a petcock, Then we have the complications of fitting up the carb to the airbox, cables, etc. Just too difficult.

Yeah, this was something I hadn't really considered to be honest. I didn't think the geometry would be that different, but clearly it would be. I would bank on the revalved and resprung Husky suspension being superior enough to still justify the change, although it may have required a change in riding style to effectively ride the changed geometry.

I'm surprised you say this TNC. The KLX shock does not have any high-speed compression damping clickers, and I have to admit I have made several changes to high-speed compression damping to get it right on my Husky.

Yeah - the KLX is my "learning bike" rather than being a bike I keep because it makes sense. I would much rather hold on to the bike and keep learning on it till it finally gives up the ghost (which will likely take a LONG time).