Pumper carb no longer needed
This carb will work on a stock KLX250 with a pipe. It might work on a bone stock, 100% OEM KLX, but I think it would need to be leaned out more.
What has amazed me about this carb is how well it does at altitude without rejetting from lower altitudes. If I lived at 7000 feet and rode regularly at that and higher altitudes I might tweak mine. I live at about 1700 feet and often end up going over passes of 10K to 13K. The engine burbles a little as you approach and descend those higher passes, but you're literally talking minutes of actual riding. I can't even detect much of a change up to 11K.
I run the P4 needle jet as opposed to OP's P6, and I run a 127.5 main. I also use a 0.9 air jet for the idle/pilot circuit which I think helped quite a bit in keeping the idle and just off closed throttle response clean.
My bike uses a factory 300KLX cylinder/piston and aftermarket pipe.
What has amazed me about this carb is how well it does at altitude without rejetting from lower altitudes. If I lived at 7000 feet and rode regularly at that and higher altitudes I might tweak mine. I live at about 1700 feet and often end up going over passes of 10K to 13K. The engine burbles a little as you approach and descend those higher passes, but you're literally talking minutes of actual riding. I can't even detect much of a change up to 11K.
I run the P4 needle jet as opposed to OP's P6, and I run a 127.5 main. I also use a 0.9 air jet for the idle/pilot circuit which I think helped quite a bit in keeping the idle and just off closed throttle response clean.
My bike uses a factory 300KLX cylinder/piston and aftermarket pipe.
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