first i have to say that the directions that johnnyz62 posted are spot on. i followed them step by step and the carb went on fairly well. the only other problemwas getting the airbox boot back onto thecarb. i spent what felt like hours getting it on and still don't like how its sitting on there.
the rubber is hitting a brass tube that runs up to the intake. i might notch out the rubber to get some clearance there. the bike was hard to start and had a terrible stutter/skip in the 5000 rpm range.
i talked to Bll today(sunday) and his advice was to rejet it with a larger main and larger pilot. But first try putting the stock snorkel back in.Hesays that a lot of guys are running into jetting problems cause
the muzzy runs too much air. well that worked. the bike fired right up and the stutter is completely
gone. i'll have to get a new plug in there to see if the jetting is right but at least it's running better for now

i'm not completely happy with the gains or lack therof with this carb but it's on and it's staying there because it's a HUGE PAIN IN THE *** to work on this bike. i'll only rejet it if it is absolutely neccassary.
i might have been expecting too much as far as power increases go but to me there doesn't seem to be much there. maybe compared to a stock carb/pipe set up there mightbe gains butcompared to a rejetted carb/muzzypipe set up there isn't. this is just my opinion after a 5 minute test ride in 30 degree weather. i hope that once the weather warms up and i can do a proper test run my opinion changes.

 

By putting the stock snorkel back on you not getting the benefits. The power comes from flowing more air/fuel mixture into the engine. As a general rule of thumb, you want to flow as much air as possible in, and then jet to match that for the perfect mixture, not limit the air to match the jetting. But when you put the stock snorkel back on, you're just choking off the air and not really realizing the potential gains of the carb and the pipe. Just my 2 cents.

Believe me, I know what a pain it is to remove and reinstall the carb. I did it with the Keihin 35mm FCR a dozen times at least. But the end result is worth it - it rocks! I probably did it more than I needed to as I went back and forth between a few jets a few times just to be sure. But after a while you get good at it and I got to the point where I didn't think anything of popping the carb off and changing out jet.

Wait for some rainy afternoon when you are bored. I think Marty went all the way up to 142.5 main jet on his. I didn't have that exact carb, so I can't recommend a jetting, but I think Marty started with 137.5 and went up a size or two after he did his 331cc overbore. But if/when you get it jetting right at maximum air flow and you feel that pull you'll be thanking yourself.

 

That's too bad that the gains were not that noticable. I'm wondering if you are not flowing enough air to get the full effect. I think that the stock snorkel is very restrictive, and I have mine out plus running a K&N filter. I'm also a little confused about how putting the stock snorkel back in would fix a rich condition. To me it sounds like that would make it worse by restricting the air more and making themixture even richer. Maybe someone that knows jetting can comment on this. Also, I don't know what it would cost to have an expert tune the carb for you, but may be worth checking out. From my experience, the gains should be very noticable.

 

Check out this post: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_119..._1/key_/tm.htm

I've been working on getting the carb jetting for over a week now. I've had it on and off about a dozen times. Believe me, getting the carb on and off gets easier and faster every time. Here's some things that I've learned about the R&R process:

- remove the throttle cable bracket before removal and after installation
- drain the carb before removal
- don't mess with the clamp at the fuel petcock, just leave it off - I have been removing the fuel line at the petcock
- remove the screw from the carb clamp at the airbox side, its a bit tricky getting it lined up and connected again, but I think it makes removal and replacing a bit easier
- when installing the carb, keep it oriented correctly and tilt the top back and slip it into the airbox boot, pull it back and lower the front fitting into the engine side boot - twisting open the throttle may help
- replace the bowl and top slide screws with hex socket head cap screws - this will make assembly/disassembly of the carb faster/easier
- provide some slack in the throttle cable at the throttle grip before unhooking the cable at the carb - when hooking it back up, do the cable at the carb and adjust the slack at the throttle grip

I'm getting closer with the jetting, however I've had to put the airbox lid (with a KDX snorkle) back on. I think that I need a larger needle jet and haven't ordered it yet, possibly a smaller air jet too for a small flat spot off idle.

Right now I'm at a #135 MJ, 4th position on the clip, about 1.25 turns out on the screw and its running pretty good, but not perfect. I'll probably have the carb on and off a half a dozen or more times again to try a larger pilot jet, zero in on the MJ and try a larger needle jet, etc....

Keep records and try not to change more than one thing at a time. Be sure to adjust the fuel screw each time after it warms up.

Keep at it and you'll end up being satisfied with the final results -- I'm not there yet.

Unfortunately, I'll get to do it all again once I install the 331cc kit. (or maybe I'm looking forward to doing it again). I have found this process initially very frustrating and demoralizing, but now its relaxing and I'm getting satisfaction from the work.

 

with the kdx snorkel in the bike itdidn't pull any harder than with the stock snorkel in. it most likely is jetted too lean.

 

Looks like I'll be getting some practice doing the carb R& R also. Mine started dying and wouldn't idle after it got warmed up. I screwed the air fuel screw all the way in and it would idle but obviously not right. From what I read this indicates a rich condition. I ordered a smaller pilot and the next two larger main jets so I can play around with it. I think that I will open the airbox or pull the backfire screen to get more air, then go up on the main jet.

 

SHIITE!!! looks like i'm going back in.. thanks for the advice...

 

Yeah, what Nobrakes said. Bill tests these carbys out on this wife's bike which I don't think is opened-up too drastically. To give you a idea of what you might need, I have a similar size of pumper carb and am running a #142 main jet with a large hole cut in the air box lid and a high flow exhaust.

Keep in mind that with a pumper the only big improvement will be with throttle response. The 'pull' will be relatively equal to a rejetted CVK. You can also visit klrworld.com 'your klx' section and ask Marty what jetting he was running with the250cc jug,since your carbs are identical. I will tell you thatMarty had the exact same problem when he received his carb fromBill....jetted way too lean.

Changing he carby gets easier with practice[8D]

 

This is pretty important point, and you will be disappointed if you have different expectations just because its a pumper.

As others have said - Improvementsresult fromincreasing the amount of air and fuel that go into the engine, and making it easy for the exhaust to get out afterwards. The greatest improvements are realized when all the components are optimized together (e.g. Airbox openings, air filter, carb & jetting, exhaust header, exhaust silencer, etc.). Tweaking one thing on its own will yield some improvements, but a holistic approach gives you the best bang for your buck!

 

That statement deserves another exclamation point. !