There's been tons of rain and flooding in my part of the world lately - I'm often crossing 18" of water on my way to work.

2 questions for you smarter guys out there...

1. How would you prep the KLX250 for lots of water crossings - let's say you wanted to know it could do at a long steady 2' and an occasional 30" crossing.

2. Just so I've already got this info on hand... What would you do if you dumped in 2' of water with the engine running and it took you a minute to get it out? What's the first thing to do?

 

If you know the bike is going under KILL IT. Hit the kill switch, If it sucks water into the combustion chamber while still running bad things will happen. Have you done the T vent mod to the carb lines?

 

http://youtu.be/1EtHUzfdYqE


H6llyw66d's Trail Tips

In case it wasn't clear, step 6 is remove the spark plug and crank away, getting all the water out of the cylinder.

 

Yep - T the carb vent or you'll stall first water crossing.

Other than that, just make sure the water stays below the top of the airbox

I've had my KLX in fairly deep waters. As long as you keep the speed up you should be OK.

 

Yep the carb T connection will keep water from being sucked in and blocking the vent tube.

 

Thanks guys! Any links to the carb "T vent" mod?

 

I just found this from Dirt surfers post....









Is the idea that the carb has a higher place to breathe from than the bottom of the vent hoses?

I know this sounds crazy but I don't have those hoses; I ran out of gas in the middle of the night and some guys stopped and let me siphon a bit but I was frantically searching for some hose and grabbed those. In the confusion after the siphon I lost the hoses, but the bike started and ran fine so I forgot about them. So... that reminds me... were they for anything important?

Is it almost like I have the benefit of the T mod cuz the breather now isn't down so low?

I know, I know... but at least I'm not a doctor

 

The lower picture shows the vent mod half done. There needs to be lines going up under the seat to finish the job.

 

Yea, don't leave them open there. Also, you can tee into the lines closer to the carb if you prefer too.

 

Do those hoses have vaccum? Is the part going down going to suck up water if they are in the water?
I don't understand why instead of doing the T mod you wouldn't just route the hoses under the seat with nothing point down?
(I know there is a reason - I just don't know what it is...) Does it blow/push and then get backed up under water and for that reason having an alternate route under the seat allow it to work when water is up to the bottom of the hose?