Ordering my 351 - Need Carb advice

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  #11  
Old 04-17-2011, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDoc46
I will go down the rejet route.. Just need to figure out if I should go with a 2152 or the 2206.
I think what you'll find is that they will both work with significant improvements. If I'm recalling correctly, the 2152 offers Stage I level, with the 2206 offering both Stage I & Stage II levels in the same kit (I went Stage II). Their web site is not opening up right now. Read their literature on both.
 
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Old 04-17-2011, 03:39 PM
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I am a little confused. You ARE getting the bill blue carb? Or going with stock carb?

NO need for a dyno jet kit if you buy the Bill Blue carb, it takes different jets and should be good to go as is. Talk to Bill about the carb if you buy it from him.

Stock carb works with the 351. I bought a TM36-68 for my bike after I did the big bore kit. It does make a difference. I am sure Bill's carb is just as good. I got to use the return cable with the 36-68. A good thing for ME.

David
 
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Old 04-17-2011, 04:51 PM
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I got my KLX used [725miles] with the stock carb jetted with the K&N. I didn't like the lazy throttle and picked up a 37MM FCR off a YZ 250 and played with trying to put it on. The local Kawa dealer tried to get me to put the BB 351 thing on it, I told them when I put some miles on it I would as I have a 520 if I felt the need for ah. I got the BB carb for the stock motor, it helped a lot. It seemed to start running better after it had 1500 miles or so. I put the BB carb on around 2000 mile mark and the 351 at 4500 miles. Some of the tight trails my buds like to ride I'm starting to think the stock carb might be better to get away from some of the bottom snap. If the snow ever leaves I might just try it?
No one told me about moving the wires and I never tried to move them to the left side as there is not much slack. That TM 36-68 sounds good also. I went with the BB because it was all from the same place.
 

Last edited by turnsleft; 05-12-2011 at 03:48 PM.
  #14  
Old 04-17-2011, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by David R
I am a little confused. You ARE getting the bill blue carb? Or going with stock carb?

NO need for a dyno jet kit if you buy the Bill Blue carb, it takes different jets and should be good to go as is. Talk to Bill about the carb if you buy it from him.

Stock carb works with the 351. I bought a TM36-68 for my bike after I did the big bore kit. It does make a difference. I am sure Bill's carb is just as good. I got to use the return cable with the 36-68. A good thing for ME.

David
I was asking in my OP, if i should get Bill's larger carb vs jetting my existing stock one. I was hoping to avoid the need for rejetting, since i was entering the realm of the unknown for myself. However it seems that getting Bill's carb is probably more work than just jetting the stock. I'm sure there would be improvement, however, removing throttle cables, rerouting wires and tuning it, which something i was trying to avoild altogether, seems more complicated than the stock. All in all, Bill's carb is something I'd prefer not to mess with thanks to inexperience, so i'll just have a stab at jetting my own carb. It's a quarter of the price too.
 
  #15  
Old 04-17-2011, 09:01 PM
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Doc, I'm curious on your jetting questions. Are you going to install the 351 or is a shop or someone else? If you're concerned about doing the jetting yourself, I'm guessing you're having someone install the 351?

Here's one thing I'd suggest. Do the 351...or get it done...and stay with the OEM CV carb with the excellent jetting numbers you'll get from many here. The info you'll get here will just about be plug-and-play on the jetting of the stock carb if you'll provide the info about any exhaust and airbox mods. Then you can decide later if you want/need the pumper carb...Bill Blue's or otherwise.

Hey guys, those of you with the BB pumper carb, isn't the jetting and such relatively plug-and-play? The mods of moving the wiring harness over a bit and maybe rerouting the throttle cable(s) doesn't sound too difficult compared to some of the off-the-shelf carb installs I've seen related here. Isn't the BB carb deal the easiest as far as installation and jetting issues right out of the box? Just asking as I kept the CV carb...which I'll appreciate as I change elevations by fairly dramatic numbers as I ride in Moab next week...LOL!
 
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Old 04-18-2011, 02:39 AM
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The wiring harness goes right across the big, round piece of the carb that the cable hooks to and rotates when the throttle is opened. I had my wiring harness moved over against the top of the carb and it worked fine all last summer.

This last winter my friend machined me a nicer throttle bracket out of aluminum and the cable was in the way so I had to move it. In order to move the cable you have to take apart the top motor mount, slice the electrical tape on the harness with a razor blade, flatten out the stack of wires, and feed it through the slot where the motor mount was. It's a little screwing around but not bad. You'll also need to cut a few wire ties.

You ever hear of someone trying the TM pumper carbs and going back to the CV? I haven't. They are frustrating to jet from scratch if you have no info to start with. Once they work right, you can take the CVK and hit it with a golf club.
 
  #17  
Old 04-18-2011, 02:50 AM
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Just did the 351 on my bike and I have the stock CV carb on it. Still has the leisurely power delivery of the 250, just more of it. I do sort of miss those top end revs of the smaller displacement - the 351 seems to top out around 8K, though I haven't spent much time there being as I'm breaking it in and such.

So stock carb, stock needle shimmed with a washer, and a 130 main and 38 pilot (7000ft). Seems to work fine.

I get my jets from these guys: Buy Keihin Jets @ PJMotorsports .com . Speedy delivery by USPS and he takes Paypal. Super convenient.

Our main jet is #9901-393 and the pilot is N424-25B
 
  #18  
Old 05-11-2011, 04:45 PM
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I've been considering whether or not the 351 would benefit me or if a 13T font sprocket would suffice. I'm a newb off road rider, and my interest is to ride tight single track which requires much less speed. I'll be riding in varying terrain from hardpack to rocky and some mud/water and probably little sand. It could be a lack of experience, but so far it seems that at lower speeds while trying to go uphill or over objects, it seems that the bike could benefit from a little more lower end grunt. I don't want to kill myself, so not sure if the 351 would be good for *ME* or not, or if the 13 tooth sprocket would be a good starting off point??? I'd appreciate any suggestions/info. that might be of use.
 
  #19  
Old 05-11-2011, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by fjrklx
I've been considering whether or not the 351 would benefit me or if a 13T font sprocket would suffice. I'm a newb off road rider, and my interest is to ride tight single track which requires much less speed. I'll be riding in varying terrain from hardpack to rocky and some mud/water and probably little sand. It could be a lack of experience, but so far it seems that at lower speeds while trying to go uphill or over objects, it seems that the bike could benefit from a little more lower end grunt. I don't want to kill myself, so not sure if the 351 would be good for *ME* or not, or if the 13 tooth sprocket would be a good starting off point??? I'd appreciate any suggestions/info. that might be of use.
13T is cheap and easy to try out. I would start there and see how it goes.
 
  #20  
Old 05-11-2011, 05:22 PM
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This bike is too fast in first gear for really tight knarly singletrack. The smaller sprocket will help cure that and is CHEAP compared to, well, pretty much anything. Just do it. You can always undo it later.

The 351 kit is to solve a different problem.
 


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