Ok y'all. Bought an older KLX250
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,650
From: Delaware, Ohio
1st Gear Member
Yeah, the story I got was that he couldn't pass the safety check with the roached-out read shock. Here on Kauai no one cares about smog 
, but you gotta have everything working.
I noticed the top of the air filter is gone so they may have been doing some homebrew hot-rodding.
I replaced the seals on the forks. Tore the whole thing apart and cleaned it up. All the metal parts were in great condition, just dirty from torn up seals. In the next few months I'll tear it apart again and replace everything I can (have to build up the budget again).
Front brake seems sloppy, there's no way I could do a nose wheelie with the current state of the front brake. I replaced the pads and cleaned up the brake lines with fresh fluid. The front reservoir actually had dirt in it, never seen that before. I've seen some chatter about stainless line for the front, I might do that later too. I work on computers, not bikes so this is a learning mission.
I've also seen that people are replacing the CCT with one from that guy who makes adjustable ones (Krieger?). I don't hear any ticking from the top end so maybe don't worry about that?
Everything else is pretty bomber. The PO's son gave it a beating, I had to take a pipe and bend the bars back to straight. Choke it and it starts with two cranks. Idles nice, and seems to be able to run all day.
Thanks for the feedback!
-roccit
p.s. Any thoughts on my 13t front sprocket? Seems like a happy medium.
, but you gotta have everything working.I noticed the top of the air filter is gone so they may have been doing some homebrew hot-rodding.
I replaced the seals on the forks. Tore the whole thing apart and cleaned it up. All the metal parts were in great condition, just dirty from torn up seals. In the next few months I'll tear it apart again and replace everything I can (have to build up the budget again).
Front brake seems sloppy, there's no way I could do a nose wheelie with the current state of the front brake. I replaced the pads and cleaned up the brake lines with fresh fluid. The front reservoir actually had dirt in it, never seen that before. I've seen some chatter about stainless line for the front, I might do that later too. I work on computers, not bikes so this is a learning mission.
I've also seen that people are replacing the CCT with one from that guy who makes adjustable ones (Krieger?). I don't hear any ticking from the top end so maybe don't worry about that?
Everything else is pretty bomber. The PO's son gave it a beating, I had to take a pipe and bend the bars back to straight. Choke it and it starts with two cranks. Idles nice, and seems to be able to run all day.
Thanks for the feedback!
-roccit
p.s. Any thoughts on my 13t front sprocket? Seems like a happy medium.
On the tensioner no noise no problem. If you've read much here you may know the rattle usually shows up around 4000-6000 rpm. It is a progressive failure so there is no immediate problem when it does start rattling, so you have time if it does start. It takes a few thousand to get really loose to the point of wearing parts badly.
After playing around with all your mods and replenishing the "play fund" pick one up if you wish to be prepared.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 130
From: Asheville NC
1st Gear Member
A lot of people including myself leave it off for more air flow
It will be noticeably louder however.
If you want a lid you need the KLX250 lid
The reference to a KDX200 is the snorkle only not the lid
SS brake lines do not increase brake power. They just give it a better feel because the SS lines don't swell like the rubber lines do.
If you replace the front fork springs the front end dive etc will be greatly improved.
Last edited by dpippin; Jan 18, 2016 at 12:42 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 78
From: East side, Kauai
Two turns to start - rejetted.
On the tensioner no noise no problem. If you've read much here you may know the rattle usually shows up around 4000-6000 rpm. It is a progressive failure so there is no immediate problem when it does start rattling, so you have time if it does start. It takes a few thousand to get really loose to the point of wearing parts badly.
After playing around with all your mods and replenishing the "play fund" pick one up if you wish to be prepared.
On the tensioner no noise no problem. If you've read much here you may know the rattle usually shows up around 4000-6000 rpm. It is a progressive failure so there is no immediate problem when it does start rattling, so you have time if it does start. It takes a few thousand to get really loose to the point of wearing parts badly.
After playing around with all your mods and replenishing the "play fund" pick one up if you wish to be prepared.
Thread Starter
|
Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 78
From: East side, Kauai
I wouldn't worry too much about the lid for the air box.
A lot of people including myself leave it off for more air flow
It will be noticeably louder however.
If you want a lid you need the KLX250 lid
The reference to a KDX200 is the snorkle only not the lid
SS brake lines do not increase brake power. They just give it a better feel because the SS lines don't swell like the rubber lines do.
If you replace the front fork springs the front end dive etc will be greatly improved.
A lot of people including myself leave it off for more air flow
It will be noticeably louder however.
If you want a lid you need the KLX250 lid
The reference to a KDX200 is the snorkle only not the lid
SS brake lines do not increase brake power. They just give it a better feel because the SS lines don't swell like the rubber lines do.
If you replace the front fork springs the front end dive etc will be greatly improved.
Good tip about the brake line, I'll just deal with it. Might try to source some stiffer springs for the front though. Thanks again.
-r
Thread Starter
|
Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 78
From: East side, Kauai
Two turns to start - rejetted.
On the tensioner no noise no problem. If you've read much here you may know the rattle usually shows up around 4000-6000 rpm. It is a progressive failure so there is no immediate problem when it does start rattling, so you have time if it does start. It takes a few thousand to get really loose to the point of wearing parts badly.
After playing around with all your mods and replenishing the "play fund" pick one up if you wish to be prepared.
On the tensioner no noise no problem. If you've read much here you may know the rattle usually shows up around 4000-6000 rpm. It is a progressive failure so there is no immediate problem when it does start rattling, so you have time if it does start. It takes a few thousand to get really loose to the point of wearing parts badly.
After playing around with all your mods and replenishing the "play fund" pick one up if you wish to be prepared.
http://d.pr/v/1jwTB
Does that sounds like tensioner? I've been thinking it was the heat shield thingy on the pipe.
Last edited by roccitman; Jan 24, 2016 at 12:49 AM. Reason: Oops, wrong link. Fixed.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,483
From:
1st Gear Member
Yes, that one. If there is crap in the threads (common) the screws may be tight but not holding the shield in place therefore rattling. Take them all out clean the threads and (red) locktite the screws in and replace the missing one. That eliminates 1 possible source of a rattle. Make sure nothing else is loose.