OH MY GOD!!! This took me all freaking day long to do. I really hope that I never have to do that again!!!
I set up up exactly like Motoguy did with the 128 dyno jet and I put the needle in at 2 slots from the base of the needle. Well it runs good and all until full throttle, at full throttle it surges like crazy and I can't even leave it there. So that means I am running extremly rich right[:'(]. I set it up like that because I new that I was gonna get the muzzy soon and I didn't want to dig into the carbs twice, and since Motoguy had this setting, I thought I could do the same, NO CAN DO!!. Well I'm getting the muzzy either this week of the beginning of next week, hopefully this helps.
Reading the post Todd makes it sounds like he does the carb modifications in about 5 minutes, HOW DO YOU DO THIS, pass me on the secret lol, today was a beautiful day to ride and all I did was work on trying to get the carb out, modifying it, and trying to get it back in accompanied by alot of swear words.
Process of taking the shrouds off, the tank off, and what not went by fairly fast. Process of taking out the carb took some work, modding took a very long time since it was my 1st time, and putting back in with the hoses took a while[:@]
Is there anything I can do right now to stop it from surging at full throttle?? I still have stock snorkle, pipe, in the bike with 1/2" hole drilled out. Will it help if I just take the snorkle off?? Hopefully it will because I dont want to dig back in there. When I get the Muzzy will it still be doing this. I live in paulding county georgia, elevation is 1000 ft.

 

Im not sure if you got the settings right, its 128 main jet, needle e-clip 3rd groove from the top, spacer on top of e- clip, drilled slide lift hole with provided bit, and 2 1/2 turns out on the mixture screw with the full muzzy system.

Since you are in georgia Im assuming you are below 3000 feet. So all settings should be same as above except e-clip placement which should be at 4th groove from the top for drilled out stock exhaust system.

 

Like Seth said, verify the clip position and that the space is above the clip. You don't need to pull the carb to check/change the needle settings, just loosing the clamps and tilt the top towards you if needed.

Pull the snorkle first to see if that helps. Surging is usually a lean condition, however so I'm not sure that will help.

 

Hmmm, maybe I have used the word "surge" in the wrong way. When Im going down the highway and open the throttle fully, it tends to jump alot, sorta like stumbles, my dumb **** probably means bog. Its like it gets gas, then gets none, gets gas, then gets none. I put the 128 jet in, drilled the slide with provided bit, put clip in 2nd slot from base with "2" of the provided washers on top of it (it said to use provided washers, and there were 2 of them?), and turned mixture scew 2 1/2 clicks from fully seated, even though this was very odd. depending on how fast you turned the flat head, the mixt. screw seemed to click at diff. times and diff. positions. I turned it really slow till I heard 2 distinct "clicks" and then what I assumed another 1/2 turn.
So you think if I take one washer off the top of the e-clip and put the eclip in the 3rd or 4th position from the base (from the non sharp point of the needle) it should work better? I guess we will find out. No I'm not a noob

Also, did you guys remove the airbox when you took out the carb?? I didn't do this but was still able to take the hose out the carb. Would you reccomend removing the airbox next time the carb comes off?

 

Hmm...OK. Something's wrong for sure (but you didn't need me to tell you that ).

Before you remove the carb, pull the airbox lid off and go for a ride. See if that changes anything. If it helps, you were too rich (though the symptoms don't match that).

I'm still going with a bad lean surge from what you describe. If it was bogging from too much fuel, it wouldn't go back and forth (in my experience, anyway). The lean surge could be caused by an air leak around one of the hoses the carb mounts to so check those again. Also ensure you've not forgotten to either a) remove the air valve system (best option) or b) hooked the hose from the carb to the air valve back up correctly.

You may need to check the float level. It's easy to bend the float when mucking around with the bowl off to change the jet.

Another puzzle: Why do you describe the pilot screw as "clicking"? It's not supposed to. This is the screw that was under the metal plug right?

Also, pull the plug and let us know what the electrode looks like (color, deposits, etc.).

 

lol,
Maybe my bikes just weird. But the mixt. screw made little clicking noises when you turn it.Yes, it was the screw that was under the silver cap that you had to drill out. It idles fine though. Up through 3/4 throttle the bike responds wonderfully, a hell of alot better then stock, its just when I pull the throttle completley wide open does it do the jumping, on off type of thing. This would indicate that the Main jet would be responsible for this right. Since the main jet handles things from 3/4 throttle on up? I will go home to double check the hoses, but I know I triple checked them yesterday to make sure they were on nice and tight, but checking one more time couldn't hurt. Hopefully when I remove the snorkle things will seem a little better. I did take the air valve system off and plugged them with caps from autozone. Those caps are very, very tight and there is no way air can be getting in or out of there.
I'll definaltye do the air screw adjustment again. Sounds like it could be really off. I will seat it full and then turn it 2 full rotations and then another half rotation correct?

 

Ah ha,
Look at what I found, actually this could be useful for alot of people like me who don't know too much about carbs.
Here is a cut and paste from one section
"When the main jet is Rich the engine will be a bit flat or lazy at ¾ to full throttle, giving off a flat, dead sounding exhaust note. When the main jet is severely rich the engine will sputter in the high RPM’s and have a lot of trouble making power up top" this is almost exactly what its doing. You can have it in the high RPMs, like 7,000 and still be fine as long as you don't have the throttle wide open. Its only when its wide open does it do this sputtering, and thats the word I was looking for, it sputters
Here is the link to the website. Very interesting.
http://scootrs.com/tech.cfm?tip=tunecarb

 

Change the e-clip needle position to the 3rd position down from the flat part of the needle if you have the muzzy full system.
or move it to the 4th position if you still have the stock pipe, and remove the second washer there should only be one. And just judging by your needle position you are running too lean. The closer the clip is to the top of the needle a leaner condition results. That should solve all your problems. And like Todd said experement with the snorkle off. If you still have problems after that your going to have to pull your whole carb and trouble shoot. Also like Todd said changing the needle position is the easiest thing to do with this carb cause all you have to do is pull the tank, and its right there.

The main jet does handle 3/4 throttle and up but there is a overlap with the jet needle if you have a problem with the internal mechanisms not working together you can be thrown off the trail. And probobly 80% of the people on this forum are running a 128 main jet. so I would suggest do what your going to do with the mixture screw and then pull the needle and change positions then test ride it.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1071/23F64D598A7A446684B208E4CBD97328.gif[/IMG]

 

heres a graph with the overlap Im talking about.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1071/FE95F85A6E8A4B949C4D3185A1164C93.gif[/IMG]

 

Thanks for the words of wisdom guys,
I see what your talking about now. The Pilot jet, air mixture screw, the needle, and the Main jet all work together at the full throttle position. So if two of them are slightly off, (like the air mixt. screw and the needle) it can lead into a whole bunch of problems. I'm not feeling very well today, but if I feel better when I get home I will remove the tank and fiddle with the air screw and take one of the washers off the needle and position the e-clip in the 4th position, even though I will be getting the muzzy soon, I just dont like messing with the carb too much, but I will if it calls for better performance right now. Do any of you notice also that as soon as you let off the throttle it takes just a tiny bit longer go back down in rev's. Not a signifigant difference, but you can tell, it doesn't drop off as fast as you let go of the throttle like it did with the stock.
Thanks again for all your help