Well I intend to get out and do some riding today on the KLX. Probably will get about 100 miles in, which for me is the time to change the oil for the first time.

I see in the manual that SE, SF or SG is recommended along with SH or SJ with JASO MA in a viscosity of 10w/40. This viscosity is adequate for all operation between -10F to 104F - quite a wide range.

Also if you ride in untemperate areas, they recommend 10w/50 or 20w/50 if the ambient gets over 104 degrees.

Guess I'll be staying with the 10w/40. Might even be 15w/40 like the stuff that Shell markets as Rotella-T. A synthetic oil that is sold at Wal-Mart for about $8.00 a gallon. That should take care of the KLX for about 2.5 to 3 oil changes!

What are you planning on using for the first oil change?

 

Hey Marty, I'm not an expert here by any means, in fact like I said before I'm releatively new or recently back in. I have been told by some racers, and the parts guy at the bike shop not to run synthetic until you have about 1000 miles on the bike. Also I changed mine at 40 miles, after I did the "hard breakin" in the first 20 miles. I don't know if you knew about the "Unauthorized" break-in procedure, but here is the link. I changed the oil again at 200, and now I should be good for a while. I am going to only run the Kawasaki Kawa-chem 10-40 oil just so as to not give them an excuse not to cover a problem with the warranty. I opted for the additional 4 year, so that gives me a 5 year total. as far as weight of oil, I live in a place where it is usually between 30 and 50 all winter, and in the summer it runs 60-80, so it's perfect for me.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I'm not saying that you should break in the bike like this, but if you do, it has to be in the first 20 miles. Luckily I read this before I had put even a mile on my bike.

Deric (deej) Kettel

 

I do believe that the law is the Moss-Magnuson Act that protects you from Kawasaki dropping your warranty because you provide your own maintenance. Just keep a log.

On synthetics . . . . I totally agree. You need to break-in an engine. If you don't have any friction, you will never break it in.

I've heard of the other methods of breaking in an engine. I've got some bikes with lots of miles on them. They were all broken in using the manufacturers suggested process. Wide Open Throttle is something that is not good during ring seating. It causes too much cylinder pressure. I'll just take my time and enjoy myself in the process.

 

I'll be going with the Kaw synth after at my first oil change (next weekend by which time I'll have about 200 miles). A lot of what is discussed about synth oil on the internet is more "snake oil" than fact. My Triumph Bonneville America came from the factory with Mobile 1 in it. Ditto for Corvettes since the mid-90s. The key is to seat the rings right in the first few miles per that link from Deric. I've used this method on a bunch of engines and they've all been trouble free. Given the tiny amount of oil this bike carries, using synth is a "must do" in my book.

I've already abandoned any pretense of keeping the bike below 4K RPM. It's just not possible to commute on the bike and stay alive doing that. The bike just purrs at 7K RPM on the highway so I vary my RPMs between 5.5K and 7K constantly on my drive to/from work.

 

Hey Marty, there is a difference between "a lot of miles" on a bike and the rings being fully seated. You can have a bike with lots of miles, even the same ammount that a bike has using the mototune method, but if you look at the tear down pictures, it makes sense. When I was about 14 or 15, my step dad and his friends would rebuild engines, and the first thing they would do is rev them high in 2nd gear, and decompress them back down. But of course we are not telling anyone what or how to do the break-in on thier bikes, just sharing information, and helping each other out. Sharing ideas is what its all about. I mean someone can give you an apple, but you don't have to eat it, but you do appreciate the gesture. So don't take any of the posts in here as "this is the way you should do it". That way we can't blame anyone when something goes wrong.

[8D][sm=gears.gif]

P.S. high revs are the only way to get the rings to seat 100%. Read the article and let us know what you think. 100% ring seat = 100% power


deej

 

Hey guys, quick question: There is a small spring between the oil filter cover and the filter itself. In the book, it doesn't even show this part, and it's a pain to get it in there, I think its only there to help the cover pop off when changing oil. Any thoughts? I left it out yesterday after changing the oil. Also has anyone thought of switching to the re-usable filters made of stainless?

deej

 

I think it's in there to keep pressure on the filter in order for it to remain seated against the cap.

 

That would be true if the spring went on the back side, but it goes on between the filter and the cover, I see no reason other than to help the cover off. It is really difficult to get in there without it trying to pop out of you're hand. The first time I changed oil at 40 miles after the break-in, I took off the 2 bolts and the think came flying off. There is no way to get the spring on the back of the filter without it falling out, so I am pretty sure it came off between the filter and the cover. When you guys change oil let me know what you think.

Oh Todd I really like the pictures of you're pellican case on the bike from the 650 site. Could you possibly take a few detailed pictures of the mounts with the box off the bike? Maybe some sort of instructional post as to how you did this? Very Cool!!.

deej[8D]

 

Well, I am starting to agree on the break-in.

Also, as Todd has found out, it's almost impossible to keep the bike under 6000 rpm.

Oh, I do apply throttle, just don't go hog wild with the rpms.

 

Deric,

I think your spring may be installed in the wrong spot. Look at this picture: