Well I finally broke down and bought me a street bike. A 2009 klx 250sf brand new had 1 mile on the bike when I took it home. I was reading the manual and it said on break in to run the first 500 mile at a max of 4,000 rpm and not race the motor. then the next 500 miles at 6,000 rpm and still not racing the motor. So my question is how can I use the bike to ride to work for the first 500 miles if I can't get the bike above 40mph? and the next 500 miles at 60 mph? the first 1,000 miles the bike wont see the speed limit out here? I've had new quads and new dirt bikes but the motor break-ins were never anything like this.

Thanks for the help
From the noobie!

 

I look forward to the replies. I am in exactly the same position, having bought mine last week.

 

Everyone will suggest the mototune break in.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


I took it easy on mine the first 400 miles and did a lot of engine breaking and went up and down in the rpm range a lot. Between 4-600 miles I didn't go over 6k rpms steadily. Changed the oil a lot at first. Anyway, it runs great and uses no oil two years later. In retrospect I would have gone up to 6k rpms right away, but still cycled up and down the rpm range frequently. I think the compression braking is important.

 

this guys makes more since to me, I think I'll try his route.

I picked up my bike on Saturday with .5 miles on it. I ran it a little on Sunday just in front of the house since the insurance office was closed. I put 5 miles on it just running up the road and back but keeping it around 4,000 rpm next weekend I'll run it a little harder.

 

Break in....LOL Follow a simple route. Vary the rpm's like was mentioned. Change oil after 40 miles and then again at 200, then every 3000. Oh and a warm welcome to the community of "Moles"

 

I did about the same Deej. I rode it as normal, except avoid steady RPM's for about the first 600 miles or so. Changed the oil at 100, 600, and 1500 miles.

 

+1 on the mototune break in...

 

Just broke in the gf's SM kept her and it at 6K max(well maybe 7K once in a while) varied the RPMS a lot and changed oil at 600 to synthetic(Oil looked very clean and no signs of metal particles that I could find) will change again at 1200 and then 2K and every K after that. But just do yourself the favor and get the bigbore now so you dont have to break that in later.
Jim

 

I looked at the site posted by Anomad and am still trying to pluck up the courage to follow his advice. Meanwhile I notice that in the sales blurb Kawasaki state that the KLX has an "electrofusion cylinder", whatever that is.
Would this make any difference to running in at relatively high revs?

 

I think the general consensus is that coated cylinders like electrofusion/nikasil cylinders are easier or at least more consistent to break in. Liner style cylinders are more critical to break in procedures due to temperature fluctuations. Now, understand that I'm just repeating the stuff I've read and heard over the years, as I'm no authority on the subject. I have owned both styles of cylinders in both stock and modded form, and it's not a major issue IMO as far as break in goes. I think coated cylinders provide a bit more consistent operating temps and therefore a little longer wear characteristics.