There's been a few writeups posted here for fork spring installs, but this one is different. This one has details on doing the revalving work too.

http://klx250s.suncup.net/MotoPro/index.htm

Next on the agenda, rear shock spring and revalve...

 

You sir, have entirely too much time on your hands! Not for re-springing and re-valving your forks, but for creating a whole web page, complete with pics and links, to describe the process. Very nice job there Dan.

 

Now thats a writeup! Thanks

 

Yea but the springs only go up to 220 lbs, that's discrimination right there.........................[&:]....................

 

deej, Check out this calculator at Moto Pro : http://www.moto-pro.com/mybike.asp I don't think it discriminates against gravity challenged persons. I'm guessing that you'll need a 0.48 kg/mm spring up front.

 

Excellent write up!!!!!

 

Thanks man, looks like the 0.46 Can you just change the springs and the oil and that's it? Do you have to re-valve?

 

ya know we love ya man when we pass up the opertunity to make a fat joke...lolspck)

 

I feel the love, I really do.

 

Re-valving isn't necessary. The new valve itself can be tuned to better match your weight, riding conditions, similar to how the spring can be "tuned" (by changing it).

I was surprised by how dirty the oil was after 2000 miles (mostly offroad miles), so I recommend if you're in there changing the spring, change out the oil as well. To completely drain the oil, you do need to disassemble the valve from the cartridge, but you can probably get most of it out without disassembling the cartridge.

If you got 0.46kg/mm spring from Moto Pro's calculator, I urge you to verify it with John. The calculator returned a 0.42 kg/mm spring for myself, but I ended up getting the stiffer 0.44 kg/mm spring.