OK, but in suspension design the shocks are to handle the surges and the springs set ride height, you guys are doing it backwards, but it is working for you. I would think that Tomac's tuner would agree with me.
Did he ever mic the springs he put in there, they may have messed up.

 

No disagreement durielk.
I'm about 215 pounds. The springs are designed for a 150-pounder. I'm not sure how much valving would do with stock springs to keep from diving. Maybe so...I'm no expert. Just stating my experience.
I changed springs first, as recommended by others here with good suspension knowledge, and the result was fantastic. The forks took single or double bumps so much better. In a longer set of whoops however, the rebound was insufficient and they would "pack up" and the bike would bottom out suspension after the 3rd or 4th whoop on. Rebound oil flow was insufficient. We then did RaceTech gold valves and that problem is solved.

I'm not sure that just pressing down on the bars in the garage is going to show the OP that the suspension is stiffer. I'd guess the bike needs to be ridden.

 

 

I took my 2018 to Rick @Cogent Dynamics. He changed the springs and also installed his DDC Valve Cartridge. Similar to the RT Gold Valves. It made a huge difference in the handling of the bike and greatly reduced brake dive.

Toph

 

I would imagine changing the valves and the oil viscosity was the main contributor to dive, unless the to was way undersprung. And yes, stock spring for any normal person is way way undersprung.

 

and oil level too.... more oil, less air, less dive. not so much as to blow the seals when you bottom out though. the right thing to do is valves

 

So I asked this question over at Cogent Dynamics new forum and received this answer.
Brake dive! What caused it and what can be done to get rid if it?

 

I had promotion do my forks and they did what I asked. I'm pretty happy with the outcome.
They are a little too soft for how I ride now, but I told them I don't do jumps or super fast woops. I'm kinda getting to the point where I could stiffen them up a little, but then I'm retired, so I should probably think about that a little longer.

 

Did the same thing to my KLR650. I even sprung for the preload adjusters. Never ended up adjusting them (the spacer Rick provided was perfect).

I am holding off on upgrading the suspension on my new KLX250. I know new springs are in my future though since I weigh 250 lb.

The DDC and Gold valves perform about the same. The nice thing about the DDC is you don't have to drill the rod ends like you do with the Gold Valves.

 

I know you aren't there yet, but at 250, don't be afraid to go with .50's on the forks, and 7.2 or so on the shock. I started off at .46 and 6.2 at 235 and eventually ended up at .48 and 7.0. MUCH better than stock...lol

FYI , Gold Valves on the KLX don't require drilling anything on the forks... just a small hole in the valve itself depending on your weight and riding style. Well worth the effort on the forks... not as big a change on the shock, but I'm glad I did both ends.