Goodbye annoying ticking! I was so annoyed by the cam chain slapping around, that I actually considered getting rid of the bike. Installed one of Mark's manual cam chain tensioners and voila! All I hear now is the grunt of the airbox, but I don't mind that so much. I can't remember the last time I drove a specific speed because of those signs on the side of the road with numbers on them, and not just to get out of the 4500-6000 RPM range.

 

Sorry, I meant Mark Krieger, not Mike. I know too many Mikes.

 

Geez, t'warnt nuthin'.

 

Sure sounds like a nice piece.

 

From KLRIDA's sig line: " pilot jet bore to .018,"

Pretty sure you mean choke jet or enrichener jet but for sure not the pilot jet.

 

I have a Krieger tensioner too. It's nice to have the option of having the cam chain tension at the level that you want it at.

With the stock automatic tensioner, you're a hostage to the tensioner build tolerances and the distance between detent clicks. Maybe it'll be OK, maybe not. Just roll the dice...

 

u could buy that or adjust the automatic stock one? lol i got almost 16,000 on mine and i adjusted it twice and its smooth

 

Pilot or idle jet system. The idle jet controls the idle and on up to quarter throttle, give or take a bit. On some carbs, like Mikuni there is an air jet too. In conjunction with the idle jet there is an idle jet air screw. This screw leans or richens the fuel mixture for a smooth idle and on up to one quarter throttle. From the idle jet, there are little passages cast into the carb that lead to holes just in front of the throttle valve or plate. There can be just one hole or there can be several, depending on the carb design. They effect the mixture as long as the vacuum, in the venturi, is over them. As the throttle opens further, the vacuum moves to the needle jet and jet needle.
The Throttle Valve. The big slide that opens and closes your throttle has a bevel angle cut in one side of the big round (can be flat, too) slide, toward the air cleaner. This angle comes in several sizes and helps control the fuel mixture from idle to about 35% open throttle.
Needle Jet. This jet doesn't really even look like a jet, but it is ! It controls the fuel mixture from 15% to 60% open throttle. It sets in the center of the carb, right over the main jet.
Jet Needle. This is the needle that rides in the throttle slide and goes into the needle jet. This needle controls the fuel mixture from 20% to 80% open throttle. It can come in many different sized tapers. Sometimes, one needle can have several tapers on it. The top end of the needle has grooves cut in it, usually five, and you can move the little clip on the end up or down to lean (down) or richen (up) the mixture. Most late model bikes have needles with only one groove cut in them. This is so you can't richen the mixture, thereby keeping the EPA happy.
Main Jet. This jet controls the fuel mixture from 60% to 100% open throttle.
I'll stick to pilot jet...

 

Yes, but what exactly then does 'pilot jet bore to 0.018' mean?

 

Perhaps you can explain how and WHY an AUTOMATIC cam chain tensioner could or should be adjusted? I never quite figured that one out... automatic - adjust? automatic - adjust? Isn't that an oxymoron.

I haven't had to adjust the cam chain play in either of my bikes in the past 10,000 miles, geez maybe there is a problem with those "automatic" tensioners... isn't there. I went through two before figuring that out with the 650 - in 14,000 miles. Cost me new cam chains and a top end rebuild. That was 30,000+ miles ago. A few adjustments as the new chains seated and it's been pretty constant since. Last two adjustments were about 1/8 turn. The 550 currently has had no adjustment in 10,000 miles.

By the way, that 1/8 turn adjustment is about .010" movement, pretty fine, one full turn is .050" per the 1.25mm pitch thread of the adjuster bolt. My bet is your ratchet tooth pitch is about 1.00mm so odds are your adjustment is loading the cam drive significantly and promoting some premature wear. Just wanted to let you know your "adjustment" of the "automatic" tensioner is like turning a manual unit in nearly one full turn too tight. Bummer. Mechanically not the wisest of things to do. Certainly not recommended in any manual tensioner instructions. In fact we back out the tension about 1/8 turn to allow for thermal expansion as the engine warms to operating temperature. That's better than a locked in "automatic" tensioner can do.

But hey, "u could buy that or adjust the automatic stock one? lol". I'm not too sure how much "lol" may come about after something wears out, making for some rebuild costs. Been there done that - once. Put a manual tensioner in the second bike, once bitten twice shy. Some of the reason this specific model design was requested, as have a few others. I just happened to be the guy who did the work and provide them.