Get 1 inch lowering links as that is about all you can drop the forks and you keep your bike more or less level. Cut 1 inch from the seat foam and you have a bike 2 inches shorter that should ride much like stock, you might up the preload a little bit but that would be all it takes and you should have no issues. As far as wheelies go a stock bike wheelies fine you just need to learn how.

I'm 5'7" with a 29" inseam. I lowered my KLX with the links for awhile and then moved back to stock height. When I get on the bike I grab the front brake and lean way forward while I swing my leg over the bike. If I didn't grab the brake the bike would roll forward with the amount I'm leaning as I get on. Works for me.

Knowing materials and stresses based on directions of forces courtesy of my Statics and Strengths of Materials class at Kent State, I can believe both things. First, your wife sitting on the bike can break the mount. Second, simply grabbing the bars and stepping up and over the bike to mount it will not break the mount. It is purely the direction of the forces on the bike.

Your wife, light as she is, is exerting more force on the stand over more time and likely with more movement while sitting UP on the seat exerting more leverage on the mount point than my grabbing the bars, holding the brake, then stepping on the left peg actually significantly closer to that mount point making for less leverage along with my weight shifting over the wheels, taking more load off the stand.

It is all about how/where forces are applied. Look at the picture of your bike, where the stand is relative to the seat and relative to the foot peg. Now think about the leverage factor of weight on the seat versus weight on the peg.

Her light weight on the seat is more than double the distance of the stand above the ground putting that stand at a point where the leverage factor is more than double her weight increasing the load at the stand mount by the leverage factor, probably over 240 lb at the mount. My weight (not even all of it) is almost at the same level as the stand mount, virtually no leverage factor increase. Less stress on the joint. That is why it is no problem mounting the bike that way.

If one really wants to significantly lower the bike and keep it there, while having optimum suspension performance, the trick is to lower it by using travel limiting spacers in the forks and shocks. It ain't cheap, but it is THE BEST way to do the job. That is how flat trackers lower the suspension on the stock 450 MX based flat trackers. They simply shorten the travel, which is not all that hard since they will be revalving the suspension anyway.

The beauty of it is the suspension bottoming point is the same as it was originally and can usually use the original springs with some change in sag since travel has been shortened. Another plus is the general steering geometry is unchanged other than ride height and suspension rate is not changed in the fork or the linkage on the rear. And the final plus is it can always be put back stock. You could lower the bike by 3-4" without any bottoming or any sort of problems other than the loss of travel on extreme rough conditions. Again, that is what a lot of the AMA pro flat trackers are doing with their 450 single MX based bikes. It also isn't unusual when MX forks are used on the front of a flat tracker or street bike.

The ugly of it is the cost of tearing apart the suspension and inserting the spacers. The labor ain't cheap. Of course if you can do it yourself that is much easier on the wallet. The spacers are simply metal collars of appropriate size and height. You do need to figure how much the rear shock travels for the reduction you want, so as to know how long the spacer should be. The front would be close to the desired drop.

If you are looking at more than 2" reduction in ride height this is the best way to do it.

This is a correct statement call Factory Connection
justinecox.com