Hi everyone, I did a quick search and found lots on different kits and stuff but I still have a couple questions. To start with this is my first ever bike and I have only had it for a couple days so bare with me if I ask some stupid questions,

1) How do you know if your bike is to tall for you? I can't touch the ground flat footed, kinda have to be on the ***** of my feet? I have to take my final exam in a couple months and just thought the skills part might be easier if I could touch ground better?

2) What are the affects of lowering the bike on handling? Does it change the geometry somehow and have any negative impacts other than less clearance?

3) I only weight 170lbs, will loosening the back spring make much difference in ride hight?

4) How hard is it to install the lower kits? Im not master mechanic but have worked on my quads a bit.

thanks for nay advice!

 

1. the klx is an "enduro"...it's suppose to be little taller for light off-road clearance...
   
2. as long as the sag adjustments are made, it should be fine...
   
3. you want proper sag adjustments or the ride and handling will suffer...if you loosen the rear spring just so it'll sit lower temporarily for the test, that might work...but, i wouldn't want to go too fast like that...
   
4. very easy...but, you'll want to have a motorcycle lift or a steady jack to lift the klx a bit...use the lift just enough that the rear wheel is barely touching the ground...undo the bolts for dog bones...install longer dog bones...bolt back on...lift until the front wheel is barely touching the ground...undo the clamps..lower gently until the top bolts are about to touch the bar...tighten the clamp bolts..very easy...

 

baysel:

First, welcome to the forum.

Adding to ahnh response, yes a little lower and flat footed is generally easier for newer riders and for taking your test as a newer rider. The KLX is a popular bike for those with shorter legs as it sits fairly low already for the 250 class of dual sport bikes, and is easy to lower further with longer dogbones (aka lowering links) as suggested. Raising the forks as suggested helps keep the bike's geometry correct for better handling.

If you search around here, you should find a number of threads on lowering the KLX. Some folks also shave the seat foam.

 

The rear wheel should be off the ground when adjusting the rear spring.

 

It sounds like you are the correct height, but here is everything I have learned in regards to lowering bikes. I will use myself, my girlfriend, and my dad as examples because we are all different heights and skill levels.


I bought an FJR1300 that was lowered by the previous owner. Riding solo the bike felt OK, but had a heavy turn in and not even close to a nimble feeling. With a passenger it felt like riding a chopper. Removing the links and going back to stock felt like removing 100+lbs from the bike. Amazing difference

I once lowered my XR, thoughts above explain why I gave up on it

My girlfriend couldn't touch the ground on her KLR250. We (she) trimmed the seat foam, then we (me) slid the forks up 3/4" and reduced the shock preload. Gained about an inch of height with that mod.

My dad is 5'4", and can very easily ride my XR650R. His feet dangle helplessly above the ground when stopped. He starts it on the sidestand, then gets off the bike to put the sidestand up. He then gets the bike moving while mounting it like a horse. I'm 29, he's 60, and he still is faster than me. No idea how he pulls that off, but he does. When the bike is leaned over in a turn he throws a foot out motocross-style and is still able to ride it properly. Stopping is done either with tires in a rain rut or he gets off the bike while moving slowly then catches it. Looks more graceful than it is. Worth mentioning that he rode my KLX for the first time yesterday and completely man-handled that bike.

My girlfriend also rode my KLX yesterday. She's 5'2". Not very experienced, but did well. One foot at a time on the ground. This comes with practice though from her riding my 450 motocrosser. She was nervous about the 450, I took the stand out and let it fall. Picked it up, no damage, told her that if she loses it just let it go. She used dad's method successfully.





In summary, I don't like lowering links or think that you need them. Lowering links change the shock ratio too much, and also lower the rear to an unacceptable amount that can't be 'tuned' out with adjustments. They effectively reduce your spring rate through linkage change, which is exactly what you don't want on a lowered bike. A 'better', but still not optimal, solution is to reduce the preload. However, the height change will be less and you may still bottom the suspension. The best solution in my mind is to send the shock away for an internal spacer. This will keep the shock from extending fully, which will lower the 'top out' point of the suspension. From that point when you receive the shock back you set your sag. Lowering the preload will have the exact same effect as this, except when you unload the suspension it will still top out at the same high point.

If I was a professional racer I would have spacers put in the fork and shock to lower the 'top out' point, then add stiffer springs to attempt to compensate for the reduced travel

If I were a new rider and just needed a bit of height I'd reduce the shock preload and slide the forks up a bit.

As an amature play rider, which is what I guess I am, I'd try to split the difference between the two above options. Slide the forks up 3/4", internal spacer in shock.

If you slide the forks up you need to be sure the tire isn't going to hit the fender. If it hits the wrong part hard enough it will lock the front wheel. Easiest way is to ask here how far you can go, and the best way is to remove the fork springs and make sure.



I am sorry for the long post, I was trying to cram a few years of experience into one thought. Any questions ask here, there are quite a few experienced riders on this forum. I come from a motocross background, so most of my dirt knowledge is on race bikes rather than dual sports such as this. Same concept, different uses.

 

Can we get a vid of the GF mounting up Dad style?

 

I tried the lowering links for awhile. It really changes the suspension geometry to the point that the already soft rear spring becomes way too soft. Even with max preload on the spring my 180lbs still chewed up the chain roller and was bottoming out all the time. It was fine on the street, but just awful in the dirt. I put the rear back to stock, but left the forks pushed up for awhile. This caused front end would wobble at freeway speeds. I just needed to lean back a little to stop the wobble. I finally gave up and put the bike back to stock. I only have a 30" inseam, so 35" seat-height takes time to get use to. I only put one foot down when I stop. I assess the area I'm going to stop and pick a foot to put down. You don't need to put both feet down in most situations.

 

I see what you're going for there. I have slow internet, no youtube account, and a cheap phone for a video camera. Not going to happen.

Here's a video of a guy on a BMW showing the method though. He has a few off-road videos also.

 

The question of whether to lower your seat is really a matter of priorities & compromise. Certainly the confidence that comes with knowing you can get both feet flat on the ground is worth something, especially to newer or smaller riders. For example, my wife simply refused to ride her ZX6r until we lowered it for her.

On the otherhand, motorcycle dynamics & geometries are quite complex. A lot of design goes into optimizing parameters including height, wheelbase, rake, trail, travel, sag, etc. Altering one parameter usually has a negative impact on the overall design.

Something you can definitely expect to happen when you lower any bike is it'll feel less flickable when in motion because you'll have less leverage over it.

If you can learn to become confident on a tall saddle, and treat it as mentioned above (like riding a horse), you'll have a more satisfying overall riding experience.

Ultimately however, if the tall seat height is undermining your confidence to the point of scaring you from riding altogether, then I say go for the lowering kit. They are not particularly challenging to instal if you've got basic tools & mechanical abilities.

 

You can shave the seat foam down an gain 1/2 inch at least and it will still handle. Also the more you ride the bike you will find you get used to it. I'm 5'7" and it seemed too tall at first and after 3 years it's fine.