Lowering links question
#31
I'm also running the Burkhart 1.5" lowering links, and have the front forks pushed up about 1.25" (I can do this because of the big bar adapter). At 5'7", 30" inseam and 142 lbs, this made the bike much more manageable for me.
#33
I am surprised you can only get 3/8" before hitting the bars. I seem to recall 5/8" was what I could get. I would drop the front, at least some. I dropped mine 1-1/2" in the rear, and 3/4" in the front. Handling seems fine with that setup. If you want more than the 3/8" you seem to be getting, either get a bar riser kit, or you can use a top clamp inverted, however, you will need to file the cap flat where it contacts the triple tree, as the top clamp upper surface is not flat.
#34
I am surprised you can only get 3/8" before hitting the bars. I seem to recall 5/8" was what I could get. I would drop the front, at least some. I dropped mine 1-1/2" in the rear, and 3/4" in the front. Handling seems fine with that setup. If you want more than the 3/8" you seem to be getting, either get a bar riser kit, or you can use a top clamp inverted, however, you will need to file the cap flat where it contacts the triple tree, as the top clamp upper surface is not flat.
There is about 1/4" of fork tube (not including the cap) sticking above the triple clamp. Is that how they are stock?
#35
That is how mine was stock. I did a bar riser, so I was able to push mine up a full inch...
#38
They are torqued to about 60 ft-lb, and if your bike is older and they have never been removed, it might take a good 100 ft-lb to break them loose. Try a bigger wrench.
I'd say soak them with penetrating fluid, but I'd be worried about that penetrating all the way into the needle bearings and that would not be a good thing...
I'd say soak them with penetrating fluid, but I'd be worried about that penetrating all the way into the needle bearings and that would not be a good thing...
#39
They are torqued to about 60 ft-lb, and if your bike is older and they have never been removed, it might take a good 100 ft-lb to break them loose. Try a bigger wrench.
I'd say soak them with penetrating fluid, but I'd be worried about that penetrating all the way into the needle bearings and that would not be a good thing...
I'd say soak them with penetrating fluid, but I'd be worried about that penetrating all the way into the needle bearings and that would not be a good thing...
#40
I have a 2006 KLX 250S and I don't think those bolts have ever been removed. Ended up needing to use an impact wrench to break the bolts. Good thing my buddy had one. Once the bolts were loose the job was really easy. Putting some support on the rear tire made the bolts slide right out and back in.
Before my toes were barely touching the ground. With the 1.5 inch lowering brackets, I can almost stand flat footed; I'm definitely on the ***** of my feet. Even better I can now back my bike up sitting on it!
Thanks for the help.
Before my toes were barely touching the ground. With the 1.5 inch lowering brackets, I can almost stand flat footed; I'm definitely on the ***** of my feet. Even better I can now back my bike up sitting on it!
Thanks for the help.