Can anyone shed some light on how to lower the forks? I installed 1.5" lowering links in the rear. I slid the forks up as far as I could, but they are tapered. If I slide them up more, the taper will be in the clamp and I worry about it cracking or not holding properly. So I only got .5" up front. Now I have too much trail and the handling sucks. Plus, now the kickstand is too tall. What a pain!

I have heard of some people using shims, but where can I find them and what do they look like? I've searched all over for detailed instructions/pics with no luck. I am going to put the stock links back in for now... I figure if anyone would know how to solve this it would be here. Thanks in advance for any help!

 

I lowered my bike with the e-bay links and added bar risers so the top of the fork tube so they would not hit the handelbars and everything seems fine for me. if I recall it was 3/4" up on the fork tubes.

 

I lowered my bike with Kouba Links: http://koubalink.com/KLX250-300.html
...went with the KLX3 link which lowered it 1.125"

Used Tusk bar risers from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC:
http://www.rockymountainatv.com/prod...FamilyId=12976

to allow me to raise the forks 1" (I marked the forks with a Sharpee pen beforehand, then raised them both the same amount measuring with a ruler).

Yes, then the kickstand was too tall. I removed it and cut the foot off taking note of the angles. Ground down the old weld on the foot and cut the tube about one inch maintaining the proper angles. Then I took both pieces to a local welding shop to get them put back together. Found some automotive paint which closely matched and painted it.

 

I lowered my wifes bike 1 1/2" with the ebay links and I ordered the bar risers from Rocky Mountain and then was able to move the forks up 1 1/8" (which is 75% of what the rear was lowered) and it worked fine. I don't understand why your forks are anywhere near the taper as ours look fine and the taper is well away from the clamps.
db

 

Here is a photo of my front forks in the clamp (note bar risers)

 

Maybe I'm crazy, but the way I see it I can only slide the forks up 1/2” and then I'm into the tapered part... The first two pictures show how it came from Kawasaki – with 1/4” of fork tube showing above the clamp. 1/4” stock + 1/2” additional = 3/4” total. The last picture shows a bike that has some sort of shim around the 2mm smaller section of the fork with well over 3/4” of fork showing. I bought the eBay links and they don’t come in a 3/4” length so I guess I’m screwed. You have to raise/lower the bike the same amount front and rear. I know some people just say to hell with proper rake/trail, but that’s flirtin' with disaster.

 

I lowered the rear and didn't move the forks mine handles fine.

 

Lowering the rear only should make the steering a tad less responsive.........or do i have that bakwards?

 

Yep, like a chopper. It wont want to turn as much.

 

I just went out and checked and you are correct, the top is tapered. I noticed the bottom taper and guess I was watching that when I adjusted ours. I went back and re-adjusted and have 1" sticking out the top with the flat untapered part looking acceptable to me. So that is 3/4" adjustment from stock. Should be fine...I also took one of my spacers back out of my risers. From what I researched people have many different views on what is right. No adjustment, equal adjustment, 75% adjustment etc etc...Even the Kouba Link site says move the forks close to the handlebars or get risers. Your only other option is to mess with the springs, spacers, etc...And if you really want to get tricky, some tires are higher or lower profile and could play into the overall equation. Just remember the following:

Front end higher: steering slower
Front end lower: steering quicker

db