Kawasaki Forums - Lost key

Kawasaki Forums (https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/)

- KLX 250S (https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/)

- - Lost key (https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/lost-key-24565/)

Quote:

Originally Posted by redpillar (Post 327911)

Would really suck if you lost your key out in the bush and had to beat your ignition open with a rock.

Talk about reversing back to the stone age. That would suck.

I use a spring loaded clip to make sure my keys don't go wandering off the bike.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nobrakes (Post 327903)

It's a triple throw double pole switch (or double throw, triple pole, I can never remember the correct terminology, it's always the opposite of what I think it should be). At one point, I made an adapter an eliminated my key in preference for a simple toggle switch. Here is the connector map, which should provide the information you need:

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/381242366_gUZVE-L.jpg

So to "hot wire" for "key on", connect white and brown together, red and red&white together, and disconnect black&yellow and black&white. However, if I recall, black&yellow and black&white always have a 100 Ohm resistor connecting them.

I did this with a single toggle switch that was able to make all those connections at once when it was "on". Worked great.

Hi NB, I have tried that & bike is turning over but will not start. I am not getting a spark. Do I need to do something with the Blk Yel & Blk Wht?
Help :-(

When I bought the klx250s along w/ the two keys there was a small aluminum tag that had the key code on it. If you find that they can send you a new set already cut for your bike.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Divodave (Post 329503)

Hi NB, I have tried that & bike is turning over but will not start. I am not getting a spark. Do I need to do something with the Blk Yel & Blk Wht?
Help :-(

Dave, make sure you put a 100 Ohm resistor between the black-yellow and black-white. While the ignition switch connections above from the manual show them to be totally disconnected, they actually are not quite. When I took mine apart there was a 100 Ohm resistor soldered between those two. I suspect this indicates to the CDI that the key is on, without it, I'm guessing the CDI doesn't generate a spark.

You can get a 100 Ohm resistor from just about any Radio Shack.

Interesting....so the 100 ohm resistor is by-passed in the off position with a direct connection?

Yes, it's either a short circuit (0 Ohms) when the key is "off" or it is 100 Ohms when the key is "on".

I purchased a new Kawasaki EN500 they only gave me two keys. So I stopped at an old time key shop and they had blanks exactly like the originals except without the Kawasaki Name.

I got four keys made there for the same price the dealer wanted just for two blanks and I would have to get them cut somewhere else as the dealer didn't have key cutting equipment.

I got locked out of my car long ago so now I also carry a spare key for my car and my bike in my wallet that I never go anywhere without.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nobrakes (Post 329546)

Yes, it's either a short circuit (0 Ohms) when the key is "off" or it is 100 Ohms when the key is "on".

Brian is correct here,
You must put a resistor in this circuit.

I believe it is an added security measure to stop someone simply being able to "hot wire" the bike.
A simple cut and twist won't work here.
The resistor is quite hard to get to.

When I removed my ignition switch when replacing the stock dials and installing a GPS, I desoldered the resistor that is embedded in the ignition switch and wired it in permanently.
Security is no longer an issue so there is no need to have this resistor switched.
Then a simple SPST switch will suffice.

I did think about using a keyed switch, in which case switching this resistor would have a benefit.

Attachment 23520

Attachment 23521

And while I am thinking about it.
The switch you need depends on what you want.
Sounds obvious;)

Do you need a parking light option?
If not, 2 position, single pole, single throw switch will suffice.

If you do want a parking light option then a 3 position, double pole, double throw switch is required.

The above assumes you have permanently wired the resistor in.
If you are going for a keyed switch, and want the added security of the resistor, then a 3 position, triple pole, triple throw switch is required.

Clear as mud right?:confused:

When it comes to switches. the number of positions is obvious.
The number of poles is the number of seperate circuits that need to be switched.
In the above case we have a maximum of 3 circuits. (poles)
1 for ignition, 1 for parking, and 1 for the security resistor.
And because the circuits are exclusive, you need 3 seperate throws. (sort of)
A throw being a different electrical situation.

Drop the resistor, drop a pole, a throw but not a position.
Drop the parking light, drop a pole, a throw and a position.

And another thing.
The stock switch is not a 100% 4 position, 3 pole, 3 throw switch as not all poles have 3 seperate throw options.
But that is what you would need to order if replaceing it with an "off the shelf" switch.
The 4th position being the lock position but there is no electrical significance to this position. (same as off)
It's a custom switch.

Does anyone remember wafer switches?
Takes me back.:o

Equivalent schematic (I think not having the manual in front of me)

Attachment 23519

You guys are the best, for those of you suggesting I get a key from Kawi, its a little late for that. The ignition had a run in with a lump hammer. I actually had a spare key in the truck, unfortunately I have 2 KLX's & of course Murphys law struck & it was for the one I wasn't riding!!!!!!!!
I will be stopping in to Radio Shack on way home, I will let ou know how it worked out.
Thanks again to all especially NB & Neilaction