Looking a 2007 KLX250s Any Advice
#11
08-02-2015, 02:02 PM
I paid $2000 for a slightly scuffed up 15,000 mile 09 that needed chain/sprockets, a good buy. Ran out fine. So with around $150 in chain/sprockets and figure about $100 worth of labor, paid or not, You figure it was $2250 over all. It also had an undersize rear brake rotor that took about $50-70 to "fix" by trading off for an early model carrier.
My brother got a virtually perfect 06 or 07, I forget, with around 3000 miles, only mark on it being a scratch on a sticker that likely was from something falling against or on it in the garage. He paid $2650, which was still very good. The bike was like new and ran that way too.
Both were pretty good buys in my opinion. If the bike is really clean, no work needed, and you're under $3000 you may be happy. Keep in mind if it is something you're buying for yourself to enjoy for the long haul or it is a stepping stone. If it's good << key point... and you like it, you decide if you're happy with the price arrived at. Are you planning on keeping it for a long time or going to larger displacement or performance later? If so you want to invest as little as possible. If you plan to keep it, that changes things. I'll pay a bit more for what I absolutely want and will keep.
For example, I paid top dollar for my Ford Ranger because it had what I wanted, looked decent, and body was perfect, although it has a 10 foot paint job... looks good from ten feet, scratches in it, it's used. Everything else I saw had rust or was 4wd. I paid more than I really wanted and what it was booked at, but it was the best and I am not sorry I did so now two years 25,000 miles later. No rust, runs great, lowered to car level and looking/handling decent. It was worth the extra money I paid.
Did the same with the KLX650, but it had 1710 miles and near perfect, no off road. Now it is 48,000 miles and 17 years later... any extra I paid is well amortized.
My 250 is the only one that was a really good buy, but I paid what was asked, knowing that, not trying to haggle it down. No games, get what I want.
I was a salesperson for a long time and hated haggling for the last nickel, so I don't do that.
Use silence as your "haggling". Sometimes after asking the price then asking what it really takes, a really long silence can get a price drop. Don't show enthusiasm about the bike either. Indifference, check book in back pocket or hand, and minimal conversation until the sale is made or not.
My brother got a virtually perfect 06 or 07, I forget, with around 3000 miles, only mark on it being a scratch on a sticker that likely was from something falling against or on it in the garage. He paid $2650, which was still very good. The bike was like new and ran that way too.
Both were pretty good buys in my opinion. If the bike is really clean, no work needed, and you're under $3000 you may be happy. Keep in mind if it is something you're buying for yourself to enjoy for the long haul or it is a stepping stone. If it's good << key point... and you like it, you decide if you're happy with the price arrived at. Are you planning on keeping it for a long time or going to larger displacement or performance later? If so you want to invest as little as possible. If you plan to keep it, that changes things. I'll pay a bit more for what I absolutely want and will keep.
For example, I paid top dollar for my Ford Ranger because it had what I wanted, looked decent, and body was perfect, although it has a 10 foot paint job... looks good from ten feet, scratches in it, it's used. Everything else I saw had rust or was 4wd. I paid more than I really wanted and what it was booked at, but it was the best and I am not sorry I did so now two years 25,000 miles later. No rust, runs great, lowered to car level and looking/handling decent. It was worth the extra money I paid.
Did the same with the KLX650, but it had 1710 miles and near perfect, no off road. Now it is 48,000 miles and 17 years later... any extra I paid is well amortized.
My 250 is the only one that was a really good buy, but I paid what was asked, knowing that, not trying to haggle it down. No games, get what I want.
I was a salesperson for a long time and hated haggling for the last nickel, so I don't do that.
Use silence as your "haggling". Sometimes after asking the price then asking what it really takes, a really long silence can get a price drop. Don't show enthusiasm about the bike either. Indifference, check book in back pocket or hand, and minimal conversation until the sale is made or not.
By the photos and talking on the phone with the owner, it's suppose to be a "Excellent" bike. I will know more when I see it in person. I just wanted a ballpark price on value. I see prices all over the place on the internet. I will keep this bike, been looking for on for a while. A good one is hard to find in my area.
#12
08-02-2015, 07:58 PM
are you talking about the Honda crf250L dual sport? if so..NOT high maintenance...if you dont plan on alot of mods I actually will go out on a limb and say the crf is better stock than the klx..starts wayyy easier(fuel injection).. however if tinkering and off roading are high on the list...klx 
#13
08-02-2015, 08:25 PM
Simple jetting resolves starting issues with the KLX though. When valves are adjusted definitely disable the compression release. I think that's a significant part of the issue. It just is unnecessary. Neither the CRF nor the WR have any compression release.
#14
08-02-2015, 08:45 PM
IMO the '06/'07 models are the best for off road. They're as close to the off road only KLX300 as you can get. The 11" of travel is what makes them shine for me. All of them need modding to some degree IMO. I just like the potential that the '06/'07 models have. If you're pretty much a "bone stocker" kind of rider who'll ride nothing more than dirt roads, then it's not as big a deal.
#15
08-03-2015, 10:38 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: In North Western Jersey, but from Jackson, WY Originally
Posts: 278
See my later post, it wouldn't show this one for some reason?
Last edited by jacksonriding7; 08-04-2015 at 02:22 AM.
#16
08-04-2015, 01:23 AM
Thanks for all the information and help.
I bought the bike today.
The bike is in really good condition. The guy bought the bike new and has been well taken care of. Starts right up when cold, runs through the gears fine and motor sounds great. Owner added the FMF muffler, header, carb., kit to the bike, sounds good. Nice set of dual sport tires and original knobby have about 80% tread left. All the books and manuals, and all the original parts in a box. The only complaint is the kick stand. The bike acts like it will tip over fairly easy with the kick stand down. Either needs a bigger foot or different angle? Other than that, Love the bike.
I bought the bike today.
The bike is in really good condition. The guy bought the bike new and has been well taken care of. Starts right up when cold, runs through the gears fine and motor sounds great. Owner added the FMF muffler, header, carb., kit to the bike, sounds good. Nice set of dual sport tires and original knobby have about 80% tread left. All the books and manuals, and all the original parts in a box. The only complaint is the kick stand. The bike acts like it will tip over fairly easy with the kick stand down. Either needs a bigger foot or different angle? Other than that, Love the bike.
#17
08-04-2015, 02:20 AM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: In North Western Jersey, but from Jackson, WY Originally
Posts: 278
I thought I posted a response to this already, so if it double posts, I apologize?
The above is great info, I'll add the following
1. I bought this bike after riding my KTM LC4 640 for 4 years. This bike reawakened my love of riding and hasn't quit since. I gave up corvette acceleration for a light, nimble fun bike that is relaxing but capable.
2. My bike has an FMF exhausts and I believe a Megabomb header I added, it absolutely HAD to be rejetted to run, I also pulled the snorkle off the intake for this. With this set-up, my bike has plenty of pull, even in sixth gear with stock gearing.
3. Cruising with the throttle stable at around 4-5K my bike will do a roll on wheelie in 1st gear even with my very considerable 280# bulk on it. That said, though, this bike is not a BIG thumper, it likes RPMS so don't be disappointed if you ride this and it doesn't romp off for you at 2K, 3K, or even 4K RPMs. Also, it has a lot of travel, so it soaks up a lot of acceleration before it lifts, but it carries the front tire over things nicely even when the front tire is still on the ground but lightened with throttle. With the header and pipe it will start pulling around 4K and keep it up right into 9K rpm.
4. In like new, 2 scratches, under 600 miles, with manual, oil change materials, a matching green helmet and goggles stored in a garage condition, I believe I payed $2700 for mine... in 2010. Just saying that because these bikes hold their value pretty well, I still think I could get over 2K for mine and I've had lots of fun with it.
5. Best of luck, hope it's the bike you're shopping for, but if not, be patient, I payed under 3K for mine by just waiting. Then I added the pipes, deleted the smog, and it's been nothing but fun ever since. Without the pipes, the bike simply did not pull in 6th gear, in fact it would lose speed on hills and had a higher top end in 5th than 6th. With the pipe and header it should accelerate in all gears.
The above is great info, I'll add the following
1. I bought this bike after riding my KTM LC4 640 for 4 years. This bike reawakened my love of riding and hasn't quit since. I gave up corvette acceleration for a light, nimble fun bike that is relaxing but capable.
2. My bike has an FMF exhausts and I believe a Megabomb header I added, it absolutely HAD to be rejetted to run, I also pulled the snorkle off the intake for this. With this set-up, my bike has plenty of pull, even in sixth gear with stock gearing.
3. Cruising with the throttle stable at around 4-5K my bike will do a roll on wheelie in 1st gear even with my very considerable 280# bulk on it. That said, though, this bike is not a BIG thumper, it likes RPMS so don't be disappointed if you ride this and it doesn't romp off for you at 2K, 3K, or even 4K RPMs. Also, it has a lot of travel, so it soaks up a lot of acceleration before it lifts, but it carries the front tire over things nicely even when the front tire is still on the ground but lightened with throttle. With the header and pipe it will start pulling around 4K and keep it up right into 9K rpm.
4. In like new, 2 scratches, under 600 miles, with manual, oil change materials, a matching green helmet and goggles stored in a garage condition, I believe I payed $2700 for mine... in 2010. Just saying that because these bikes hold their value pretty well, I still think I could get over 2K for mine and I've had lots of fun with it.
5. Best of luck, hope it's the bike you're shopping for, but if not, be patient, I payed under 3K for mine by just waiting.
Then I added the pipes, deleted the smog, and it's been nothing but fun ever since. Without the pipes, the bike simply did not pull in 6th gear, in fact it would lose speed on hills and had a higher top end in 5th than 6th. With the pipe and header it should accelerate in all gears.
#18
08-04-2015, 02:21 AM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: In North Western Jersey, but from Jackson, WY Originally
Posts: 278
#19
08-04-2015, 03:01 AM
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: kootenay country BC Canada
Posts: 1,800
Edit, here it is: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...and-pad-42936/
Last edited by ol'klx-er; 08-04-2015 at 03:05 AM.
#20
08-06-2015, 12:13 AM
Been reading about the Kawasaki dual sport bikes.
I need more educating, Can you tell me the difference in the dual sport Kawasaki bikes?
I would like to know the differences in the following:
KLX250S
KLR250
KLX
KL250 G/H (Super Sherpa)
I need more educating, Can you tell me the difference in the dual sport Kawasaki bikes?
I would like to know the differences in the following:
KLX250S
KLR250
KLX
KL250 G/H (Super Sherpa)