KLX300 Cylinder, Piston, & Gasket Kit
It's not the steel sleeve I'd be worried about, it's the cast aluminum. Cast aluminum gives up it's electrons easier than steel, so it becomes the anode.
Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The useful life you'll get out of a good antifreeze is 2 years, not 5. After that the corrosion inhibitors are pretty much used up. Prestone.... I wouldn't let that crap go more than a year. I've seen many many Toyota pickup engines ruined by a combo of Prestone and lazy owners not changing it out frequently enough. Personally I use Toyota's "red" because it seems to last the longest and doesn't make a sticky smelly mess if it escapes. I'm not getting kickbacks nor do I work for Toyota, just my experience wrenching on 4x4s in my free time. I have no experience with "engine ice"...
But like David said, worry less ride more... just change that crap out at least every other year.
Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The useful life you'll get out of a good antifreeze is 2 years, not 5. After that the corrosion inhibitors are pretty much used up. Prestone.... I wouldn't let that crap go more than a year. I've seen many many Toyota pickup engines ruined by a combo of Prestone and lazy owners not changing it out frequently enough. Personally I use Toyota's "red" because it seems to last the longest and doesn't make a sticky smelly mess if it escapes. I'm not getting kickbacks nor do I work for Toyota, just my experience wrenching on 4x4s in my free time. I have no experience with "engine ice"...
But like David said, worry less ride more... just change that crap out at least every other year.
Oh, forget to mention, I also suggest never exceeding the 50/50 general recommendation of water and antifreeze with a higher percentage of antifreeze...unless you live in some absolutely unholy extreme temp condition. I like a 60/40 of more water to antifreeze, as the water is a more efficient coolant than antifreeze. You have to have enought to push the boilover point up and keep the coolant from freezing. 60/40 usually covers this in most parts of the world. The KLX in particular has a very efficient cooling system.
Last edited by TNC; Jun 15, 2011 at 04:53 PM.
Alright gang. I've still got the 300 kit, and I really want to buy some suspension parts. Willing to take the lo$$ in order to free up some cash. Price dropped to $380 shipped to CONUS. This price will go back if I buy the suspension bits first.
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...17/#post438865
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...17/#post438865
you should just use it yourself.. i dont think anybody is gonna give you what you want for it. I would be interested but when i can buy a bill blue 300 big bore for $80 more... yes yours is better quality but most people wouldnt where either one out for a long time. Maybe put it up on ebay? You may find a buyer who is looking for that type of kit you have. Good luck
If it's not sold first, I'll be doing exactly that this winter. I'd just like to sell it so I can afford to upgrade my suspension (I've found I need suspension more than motor).
Yeah, they're both durable...but the sleeved kit costs a bunch more upfront, and you don't get an extra cylinder out of the deal.
I've had it on ebay, but I don't really want to sell it there, as they charge so damn much in fees. Anyway, thanks for wishing me luck - I think I need it.
I've had it on ebay, but I don't really want to sell it there, as they charge so damn much in fees. Anyway, thanks for wishing me luck - I think I need it.
$380 sounds like a pretty good deal, but I gotta agree, suspension first. Especially if you're doing any bumpy dirt work. What's BB paying for an exchange cylinder? He charges $175. Even if he only paid $100, at the end of the day you could be getting this setup for closer to $280.
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