Hey now Kawi world. Much time has passed since I last contributed, well benefited, from the forum, but I humbly return with hopes that one of your elite electrical gurus might help. Any who… I got bored of the bike, 09’ KLX250sf, and decided to simplify/minimalize the bike. I should mention this bike doesn’t go off-road, nor do I ever ride it more than 30 minute blasts. With that said, I removed the below bits, and wouldn’t you know it, it won’t start. It turns-over, and the battery is at 12volts ish, but when I test the connection where power goes into the coil I get nothing. Or to put it another way, the orange out of the igniter doesn’t send power to the coil. So my guess is the igniter is not happy, and you can see below where my confidence wanes regarding my wiring setup. I have wired this joker multiple times thinking I made a simple mistake, but I keep getting the same result – no power to coil. Can someone smarter than me please look my debacle over and provide some insight. And for added incentive, I will post-up some pictures if I get’er running, frame cutting, relocating, and painting to boot.

Removed:
Interlock Diode (master safety control??).
Starter Control Relay.
Fans, Fuse, and disconnected coolant sensor wire.
Speed Sensor.
Kickstand Switch.
Clutch-in safety switch.
Horn.
Left & Right Switch Housing and Connections.
Speedo/Tach Display.


Igniter:
Orange = Coil, coil grounded to chassis.
Black/White = open/ not connected to anything (Schematic shows this loop was closed when ignition switch was in the off position, therefore I left it open – not really confident this should be open/not connected??)
Brown = Power in – 12 vdc.
Black Red = Grounded (I believe this to be part of the problem; schematic looks like this went to interlock diode, i.e., master safety doo-hickey.)
Green/White = Green/White from camshaft sensor, then Yellow/white from camshaft sensor goes to ground.
Black/Yellow = Ground


Regulator/Rectifier:
Yellow (x3) from Alternator = Regulator/Rectifier
White = Power in, 12 vdc
Brown = Power out, 12 vdc (hopefully)
Black/Yellow = Ground

Neutral Switch = Open, no wire attached
Starter Motor = 20 Amp momentary-on switch between the battery and starter motor.

No lighting yet.

Thanks in advance.

 

I'd put money on the diode.

 

Kickstand Switch.
Clutch-in safety switch.

Did you connect the two wires back together for each switch you removed?

 

Thanks for the reply.

Suppose I could have been more clear, the only stock wiring I am using are the 3 alt. wires, 2 camshaft sensor wire, and starter wire, everything else was removed leaving only the components mentioned.

Basically I have an alternator, rectifier, igniter, coil and starter and from there I have built my own wiring harness, all be it not functioning.

Let me offer this for time and effort, I have a near new FMFq4 power core silencer for this bike that, if desired, will go to the first person to straighten this out. I don't know how to show my honestly about this, so I guess my word will have to do. Thanks again.

 

Thanks.

Yeah, I removed it, and looking at the schematic and the Black/Red that comes from the igniter goes straight to the interlock diode, and form there exits as three wires, i.e. sidestand switch, starter control relay, neutral switch and starter lockout switch. But, since my starter works, I eliminated the possibility of the starter relay and starter lockout.

I guess another question is which electric saftey conditions need to be met for a spark?

Also, its been awhile, does a stock bike turn over just no spark if the safety conditions aren't met?

 

Here's my experience....
I removed the ignition key switch and replaced with a toggle.
There's a "security" resistor in the ignition key switch.
Without that resistor in place, the starter would turn but the bike wouldn't start. I'll assume there was no spark, but I didn't check.
With the resistor, started and ran fine.

Hope that helps a little...

 

I just gotta ask why are you doing this?
I can understand unpluging components and bypassing safety switches but why would you ditch the harness?
I think your gonna need the interlock diodes and resistor thats built in. I also would keep the starter relay.
good luck
marc

 

+1

and frame cutting? What ARE you up to?

 

Isn't that obvious? Trying to make the lightest one around it appears. Toss the seat next?

Well....what ARE you up to?

 

You're right on: without that resistor, the starter will work and crank the engine but no spark will be generated.

Thus the BK/W wire must connected to a 100ohm resistor that is grounded at its other end. The BK/W wire should also be connected to the EStop switch, which does its work by grounding directly the BK/W, thus bypassing the resistor. I would advise against not using an EStop switch.

It's ok to ground the BK/R wire, if you don't the cdi will not do its work.